This can't be right
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 5
From: Garner NC
This can't be right
1990 Owner's Manual says if you have an E4OD, tow in OD. WTH? I read it six times. SMH.
My situation:
1990 F-250 HD 460 E4OD 3.55 with bags on the rear axle. 10 ply tires. This truck has been used in the past for towing a Frozen Yogurt vending trailer. Brake controller and has the seven pin connector in the Prius-killing-chrome-plated-I-beam rear bumper. I intend on purchasing a 20' 10,000# dual axle flatbed car hauler, brakes on both axles. Occasionally I will transport my 63 Ford 4000 tractor with bushhog (~4500#) or an 873 Bobcat (6800#), but mostly car ferrying, and of the vintage variety.
So, do I tow in OD in constant fear of roasting that band, or is there something special about the 1:1 that causes the E4OD to commit suicide under sustained load? Truck has under 100k original miles (documented, I got it at 72k). Still sports the original spark plug wires with an 89 date code. I intend on driving reasonable speeds. My wife would say 'you better believe it grandpa!'
My situation:
1990 F-250 HD 460 E4OD 3.55 with bags on the rear axle. 10 ply tires. This truck has been used in the past for towing a Frozen Yogurt vending trailer. Brake controller and has the seven pin connector in the Prius-killing-chrome-plated-I-beam rear bumper. I intend on purchasing a 20' 10,000# dual axle flatbed car hauler, brakes on both axles. Occasionally I will transport my 63 Ford 4000 tractor with bushhog (~4500#) or an 873 Bobcat (6800#), but mostly car ferrying, and of the vintage variety.
So, do I tow in OD in constant fear of roasting that band, or is there something special about the 1:1 that causes the E4OD to commit suicide under sustained load? Truck has under 100k original miles (documented, I got it at 72k). Still sports the original spark plug wires with an 89 date code. I intend on driving reasonable speeds. My wife would say 'you better believe it grandpa!'
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 5
From: Garner NC
That's what I thought. Trans was serviced just before I bought it. Has the tow package so yes on cooler. Trans Temp gauge - now I know what to put in the blank panel in the dash.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
Towing in OD Is fine on flat ground.
Kick it out in the hills where more torque is being pushed out.
No reason to run down the highway at 3000 rpm.
And Adding a large cooler never hurt.
Kick it out in the hills where more torque is being pushed out.
No reason to run down the highway at 3000 rpm.
And Adding a large cooler never hurt.
Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 927
From: Home Base Nebraska
1990 Owner's Manual says if you have an E4OD, tow in OD. WTH? I read it six times. SMH.
My situation:
1990 F-250 HD 460 E4OD 3.55 with bags on the rear axle. 10 ply tires. This truck has been used in the past for towing a Frozen Yogurt vending trailer. Brake controller and has the seven pin connector in the Prius-killing-chrome-plated-I-beam rear bumper. I intend on purchasing a 20' 10,000# dual axle flatbed car hauler, brakes on both axles. Occasionally I will transport my 63 Ford 4000 tractor with bushhog (~4500#) or an 873 Bobcat (6800#), but mostly car ferrying, and of the vintage variety.
So, do I tow in OD in constant fear of roasting that band, or is there something special about the 1:1 that causes the E4OD to commit suicide under sustained load? Truck has under 100k original miles (documented, I got it at 72k). Still sports the original spark plug wires with an 89 date code. I intend on driving reasonable speeds. My wife would say 'you better believe it grandpa!'
My situation:
1990 F-250 HD 460 E4OD 3.55 with bags on the rear axle. 10 ply tires. This truck has been used in the past for towing a Frozen Yogurt vending trailer. Brake controller and has the seven pin connector in the Prius-killing-chrome-plated-I-beam rear bumper. I intend on purchasing a 20' 10,000# dual axle flatbed car hauler, brakes on both axles. Occasionally I will transport my 63 Ford 4000 tractor with bushhog (~4500#) or an 873 Bobcat (6800#), but mostly car ferrying, and of the vintage variety.
So, do I tow in OD in constant fear of roasting that band, or is there something special about the 1:1 that causes the E4OD to commit suicide under sustained load? Truck has under 100k original miles (documented, I got it at 72k). Still sports the original spark plug wires with an 89 date code. I intend on driving reasonable speeds. My wife would say 'you better believe it grandpa!'
Denny
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 1,521
Likes: 412
From: Washington Coast
If it starts hunting from drive to OD, twice or more in 5 minutes then lock out OD and/or when going up fairly long uphill grades. If it downshifts and stays no need to lock it out. You can als just speed up a couple of MPH to put just enough of the additional load to keep it in the lower gear.
My bronco has the E40D and that's what I do and never have had an issue.
My bronco has the E40D and that's what I do and never have had an issue.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 2,700
Likes: 797
Towing in OD is perfectly fine as long as the transmission isn't constantly shifting. I have an E4OD in my '79 F350 and one of the biggest problems is just having enough cooler to get rid of the heat. I have a Tru-Cool Max cooler and it keeps the transmission fluid under about 200 degrees in the pan when towing.
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Regarding 1:1, it can be in 1:1 (third gear) all day long without issue, and this will give you lots of extra opportunities to pump gas into it and grab munchies.
I tend to agree with 351Cleveland C4, EDC8008, and DaveMcLain on this one. My summary:
- If it shifts in and out of overdrive a lot, lock it out of overdrive
- Keep it serviced
- Keep it cool, I've never heard of a transmission cooler too big on one of these
- Anticipate hills; when you are just starting up a hill that you know it will shift down for, tell it to in advance of most of the additional throttle
- Install a transmission temperature gauge that reads pan-fluid temperature (which would be about the same as post-cooler return-line temperature)
If you were talking about towing an RV or big box trailer, therefore with lots of frontal area, I might have different advice about towing in overdrive but the same advice for upgrades and service.
If you see the transmission getting hot after adding a cooler and gauge etc., drop it down a gear for going up that hill and put on your list to get an even bigger transmission cooler when you have a chance.
I tend to agree with 351Cleveland C4, EDC8008, and DaveMcLain on this one. My summary:
- If it shifts in and out of overdrive a lot, lock it out of overdrive
- Keep it serviced
- Keep it cool, I've never heard of a transmission cooler too big on one of these
- Anticipate hills; when you are just starting up a hill that you know it will shift down for, tell it to in advance of most of the additional throttle
- Install a transmission temperature gauge that reads pan-fluid temperature (which would be about the same as post-cooler return-line temperature)
If you were talking about towing an RV or big box trailer, therefore with lots of frontal area, I might have different advice about towing in overdrive but the same advice for upgrades and service.
If you see the transmission getting hot after adding a cooler and gauge etc., drop it down a gear for going up that hill and put on your list to get an even bigger transmission cooler when you have a chance.
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