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The first time it happened I thought I was imagining it- when I released the pedal, it came up way farther than it should have. I'm not sure how much it would've come before stopping, because I pushed it back down when the toe of my boot touched the parking brake release lever. Didn't do it again for a few months until earlier this week. Only seems to happen once in a row, then it's good for a while. I'm assuming there must be a tab or something that's not catching when it does this. I looked at the linkage in the cab and couldn't even see how it would be possible for this to happen.
You are correct. There are two retainers in the master cylinder where the plunger catches on an indentation as the pedal is returned to the up position.
My retainers let go 300 miles from home while towing our 5th wheel. The pedal shot up to the dash so hard it sounded like the front drive shaft was coming through the floor. Luckily the plunger will not completely come out of the master cylinder, so the extra high pedal is still useable, just awkward.
You will need a new hydraulic system or a new master cylinder at the very least.
With the help of Sous's video I changed out mine in 20 minutes, was one of the easiest things I have done to my PSD.
I forgot I made that video! Thanks for posting it in this thread sir.
When I went to replace my hydraulics there was very little information about the procedure. It is a simple task, but for a first timer, I had some questions and don't like to go into projects or repairs blind.
I am glad it helped you out and will be a reference point for people in the future.
Thanks, I've replaced the hydraulics before (previous truck) but didn't realize the master cylinder was to blame for this particular problem.
Sounds good and you are welcome!
So, when you installed the hydraulics in the past. Remember when you attached the pushrod to the pedal mechanism and then you set the pushrod into the master cylinder and cycled the pedal down as far as you can to set the pushrod? Those spring clips or retainers that you force the pushrod past are what gave out allowing the pushrod and pedal to extend much further toward the dashboard than they should.
Update- finally fixed this today. It is a very simple job, as you mentioned (probably even more so for a truck that doesn't have two plow control boxes and harnesses installed).
I was thinking how it's a shame that I had to spend $80ish to fix this problem caused by a tiny little clip that probably costs 10¢. But then I drove it! I hadn't realized how nice it is to have new hydraulics controlling the clutch. I'm sure the fluid was pretty tired in the old system, but never had anything to compare it to. Well worth it.
This is outstanding news and thank you for closing the loop on the thread.
My hydraulic assembly had a failure when I was towing our 5th wheel 300 miles from home. The rod came loose of the cylinder which caused the pedal to come almost all the way to the dashboard. It was a bit uncomfortable for the return trip home, but I managed just fine and was grateful the extended reach of the rod didn't remove itself from the cylinder. That would have been a bad day, or at least a delayed travel day.
I was also met with a smooth and fluid movement of the new hydraulic assembly, as you were. I was also met with silence while actuating the clutch pedal instead of the occasional metal on metal sound. Turns out the retaining ears in the cylinder were binding or catching on the push rod and eventually failed.
Again, good to hear you are back on the road in style and comfort.
Happened to me a year ago Nov. Realizing that the m/s assy was still usable and the only problem was that, the rod would not "seat" in the master, I was inclined to remove the clutch spring. This way, it didn't allow pressure on the pedal but, leaving it just "hanging around"...been working this way ever since
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