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Re the filler or primer first question, I don't think that it matters as long as each layer is applied to a surface with enough "tooth" to promote a strong bond. With multi-layer finishes, it is very important to let each layer, be it filler or primer, fully cure before adding another. Not attending to this can cause the top coat to blister due to gasses emanating from lower levels having nowhere to go.
I tend to put filler over bare metal when I have it inside for any legnth of time... if I know it's gonna go outside for a stint, it gets epoxy primer and then filler over it when it comes back indoors for a bit. You can put glazing putty over just about anyhting, even old scuffed paint without any concerns... For bare metal it gets 80 grit with the D/A minimum for filler work. On epoxy primer I will scuff with 120 grit.
And YUP, solvent pops will ruin your day pretty quick. All paint's/ primers come with a tech/ data sheet that will list flash times. I am pretty comfortable painting down to about 55 degrees for the most part and up to 85 degrees on the top end. Just have to adjust the flash times accordingly. Most tech sheets will say "all times are @ 70 degrees F", so you will adjust based on temperature. For cold weather I have NO issues spraying primer, ever. Just allow an additional 15 minutes or so between coats. Ergo, if the tech sheet says 15 minutes flash @ 70* F, add another 15 and make it 30 minutes between coats at 55 degrees. You can also use a reducer in your paint's/ primers to ccompensate for temps lower/ higher.
Well I finished up the rust replacement section of my journey....at least as best I could. I did have to redo a couple of spots because I burnt so many holes there was not much metal there anymore. I did go and get a bottle of C25 for the welder........not really sure it helped or not. I think I did better with the Flux-cor .035 than the .023 with gas. The welds did look better with gas but I was burning way more holes. I did look into my welder...I noticed the wire was not feeding consistently. I flipped the wheel over and it did the trick. Just for the info I rented a bottle here in town. It was a 3 year lease....only one they offered. The bottle was $220. plus $50 fill. They would not fill anyone else's bottle, they do an exchange.
I ended up cutting this section out and redoing it. Every time I touched it I burnt a hole through it. I believe it was just worn thin from grinding, trying to weld up all the pinholes.
I just cut out a square and started over.
Had to do the same here.......got tired of welding up hole after hole....getting better at that but tired of doing it...
But I am getting better at cutting the pieces to a closer fit. 1 thing I did learn....at least for me...i had to have a gap. If the panels butted up my welder did not act right. It would just ball up or sputter. If I moved to the side with a gap, nice sizzle sound. No idea why.
Well here is the bondo applied. I did some sanding and I thought the welding sucked........little did I know...LOL!!!!!!! But...its not as frustrating ....yet, just boring.
here is the other side......I have 2 weeks and this has to be out of the garage. After I get the bondo close will I just use some paint to "mark" it so I can see high/low spots? I imagine I can just mist it, just so I can see the areas that need more filler. Will it matter what this paint is? Nothing I have read or watched said it mattered. I will use undercoating on the backs of all the welds.
After I get the bondo close will I just use some paint to "mark" it so I can see high/low spots? I imagine I can just mist it, just so I can see the areas that need more filler. Will it matter what this paint is? Nothing I have read or watched said it mattered. I will use undercoating on the backs of all the welds.
Try to find your self some guidecoat to use on the filler... it's much easier to sand. Even spreckling a bit of black primer would be better than a rattle can of enamel/ laquer paint.
I have been sanding and it's starting to look better. Only thing I cannot find is how do I clean the Bondo before applying more? I get the dust needs cleaned up or off but do I wipe it down with acetone or grease wax remover or just wipe off the dust and put down another layer of Bondo?
I have been sanding and it's starting to look better. Only thing I cannot find is how do I clean the Bondo before applying more? I get the dust needs cleaned up or off but do I wipe it down with acetone or grease wax remover or just wipe off the dust and put down another layer of Bondo?
Clean, dry compressed air should be sufficient. Make sure that the surface has enough "tooth" so that the new layer will adhere properly. 180 grit or coarser.
Which became this.....after cutting out the rust...
Repair panels are welded in......
All the panels on this side welded and ground.....this is where I started to doubt myself.......man it looks horrible.
For some reason it doesn't look as bad now that it all looks equally bad....lol. That was 2.5 hours of grinding for each side.
Slapped a little mud on it and let the sanding commence..............
Sand ....sand ......sand.....this was very boring , but my confidence started to come back that it wasn't going to look too bad when I finished.
Put some filler primer on it and went over a few spots.
Put the wheels back on and rolled it out in the drive so I could clean out the garage. Looks like I will be shooting the primer tonight.
It looks pretty good. Sure there will be areas that need more work that priming it will uncover. I will be priming it tonight. Supposed to be 65 today. I have some Eastwood Paint prep that says to use to wipe down the body before painting. Will this hurt the filler primer? It will have been on for about 24 hrs? How long after I wipe it with the cleaner/degreaser should I wait to prime? Let me say thank you again to those who have imparted their advice and knowledge.
A thought just occurred to me. Am I supposed to block off all the filler primer before I shoot the epoxy primer on the truck? My rags did turn the color of the filler primer whenever I wiped it down with acetone before the next coat after blocking and spot puttying.
Normally you shoot the epoxy before you do any bondo work. but you can go over the bondo as well you just lose the protection of the epoxy under it.
Hopefully your welds were solid and had no pin holes , if there is anyplace for water to get under the bondo it will, and it will peal off as the steel rusts. even if you think it's good I'd seal it from the backside with POR-15 or something for extra insurance
Well it is done.................2 coats.....about an hour between them due to the temperature. Still wet when pictures were taken
This is the Eastwood Black Epoxy Primer. It took me a bit to get my gun settled in. I still think I didnt lay it on thick enough. My mix was off at the gun. Too much air and not enough liquid. It looked like it was going on smoothly but as it flashed it developed a texture.
This is after 24 hours.
It has a slight texture to it.....almost like thinned out bedliner. Is the issue....sprayed to thin? I had the regulator set at 45psi, primer said shoot at 45-55psi. Mixed at 1 to 1 as directions stated.
I also had some spots of filler show through as a different texture.
For the most part it turned out way better than I thought it was going to. There are some spots that will need a little massaging. I'll get to them in the spring.
I finished up the tailgate. 2 coats of self etching primer then 2 coats of black primer so it matches the bed....
Had to rattle can this one. In the background is my next project.
Went and picked this up Saturday. Its a 75 F100. Was a 4.9 3spd...now it has a 351W and a 4spd. Its a 2wd and has been parked in a garage since 1993.I won this on Ebay back in August. Tied up in probate and had to wait on the title.
Cleaned all the junk out of it and the bed floor looks really nice. It had new bedsides welded on but they have surface rust.
Already started to tear into it. The inside had some rodent residents but none still alive. The floors are in great shape. It almost looks like the PO welded in a whole floor. Only welds I can see are down the rockers. Guy did a number on the wiring though.....might not be able to use whats there.
Is this a T-18 transmission? It was a 3spd column shift but the PO swapped in this tranny and a 351W.
Plan is to strip the cab and bed, tidy up the bodywork and paint them. Then when the time comes swap them out for the cab and bed on my 4WD. This way I can still drive mine while I am working on these. I just wish the windshield wasn't busted because the one in my truck now is frosted around the edges. All in all I got a hood, cab,tailgate, and bed in better shape than mine. The doors are a toss up. Will attempt to fix them because practice makes perfect and I rented the gas bottle for 3 years....lol. Also plenty of parts to sell. It even had a 75 owners manual in the glove box. The guy who owned it bought it off his dad who apparently bought it new. So said the brother who sold it for the estate.
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