And a classic example for why we have to work on these trucks ourselves.

 

I read through everything again and had an idea on the erratic pulse width. I could see the accelerator pedal position sensor causing that kind of behavior. Totally unrelated to any idm or injector codes I know but it sounds like that horse has been beaten repeatedly. The APP may lead nowhere but it's free to have a look at the wiring and such. I also think there's a write up about cleaning the sensor because they're prone to getting gunked up and causing problems. The only other suggestion I might have would be a thorough inspection and cleaning of all your power and ground cables. I've seen sketchy grounds cause some strange behavior.

 

I have replaced IPR, ICP, and CPS plus pigtails. All motocraft. I replaced the fuel heater unit plus pig tail. I replaced the pigtail on the ebp solenoid as well. I cleaned out the EBP sensor and the tube. I replaced the UVCH with dorman so it only has on plug on the outside plus the pigtails for those. Truck would not start so I sent out my PCM and they changed the cpu and the ground unit. Truck started right away. Now it runs rough till the SES light comes on and it runs better. 6-700 rpm at idle. I have not been able to get a scanner to read codes. The scanner I borrowed will not read codes. SES light will come on after running truck at idle for 20 min or running down the road and the turns off when truck gets cold.

 

Please start a new thread with your issue, and get yourself a scanner - so cheap now that there's no reason not to. See how-to thread below:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...de-thread.html

Arm yourself with info, and we'll help you get this figured out.

 

I got the truck back home a few weeks ago. Mechanic charged me another $600...$240 for an IPR that I didn't authorize and the rest was labor. Claimed he spent way more time on it and was "trying to help me out". And nothing had changed. -And I found my truck missing a few nuts and bolts, as well as the intake hoses not tightened.

I did some more searching and I found a couple posts out on other forums about Dorman gaskets causing these phantom problems and diagnostics not helping. I confirmed with the mechanic that he had installed Dorman. So I finally broke down and threw some more money at it and bought OEM harnesses and gaskets from Riff Raff. I also got a set of glow plugs.

I finished installing them today and the truck started right up and ran good. I took it down to the end of my dead end road a couple times and let it run in the driveway for a total of about 20 minutes. Did not have any misfires and was able to throttle up without any problems. Before, I could not go more than 5 minutes before it started missing and intermittently stalling.

So I am tentatively calling this fixed! I still need to button up my wheel well and do a longer road test, but I am pretty sure this is it.

Now I am contacting my mechanic tomorrow about this 2 year warranty that is supposed to cover his work. I hopefully will get some reimbursement. If not, I think I might go to small claims. I spent almost $1200 on labor to still not have a running truck. Had to fix it myself. This is why I never take my vehicles to a mechanic.

Thanks to everyone for their input. I wanted to make sure I closed this one out and hopefully help some other frustrated 7.3 owner. If something changes I will be back.

Scott

 

Great news, at least the part where you have it fixed, not the issues with the shop. Congratulations on figuring it out. Thanks for coming back to close out the thread for future readers!

If the shop was replacing electrical parts (IPR, CPS etc) with parts store brands then you may encounter issues with them in short order. Hopefully they gave you the originals. If not, you may want to pick up some Motorcraft parts to keep on hand along with the tools to change while on the road.

 

Thanks for closing the loop on this. I installed dorman uvch about 4 years ago and looking to go back to oem. I have seen other people post about the insulation cracking on the dorman wiring and now reading your issues with dorman makes me want to go back to oem uvch that much more. Good job on figuring it out and hopefully you will get some kind of refund from the mechanic.