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Hello all, I am just about to give up on getting my ‘62 4x4 F100original engine running in-situation. My questions start with my concern for having the original number matching engine when restored. Is that a big deal or really nothing to worry about? Secondly, I have always loved the300 six and could consider that swap. I have access to a ‘66 with a 3 speed but will my original 4 speed bolt on to that bell housing? Getting anything shipped to Alaska is nearly cost prohibitive. Thanks
Well, there aren't numbers to match, in the more modern sense, where the vin is on multiple components. However, casting ids and date codes should be correct and plausible for the manufacturing date of the truck. In general, original is worth more. If it is an investment, then you should probably keep it as original as possible. If it's something you want to enjoy and don't care so much about the money, then make it your own.
Any engine other than a Y Block or the I6 that was available at the time will require a different transmission and very likely driveshaft modification, among other things.
Charlie, thanks for that input, I am leaning towards the rebuild, should have heads off and pan open tomorrow to get an idea on the hesitancy to turn over. Has sat for 33 years . Showing me tough love for sureLOL
The truck was parked 33 years ago and I pulled plugs, gave the cylinders a good shot of WD and cannot get the motor to turn with a 2’ long cheater on the crank nut. As I continue to research. The 300 six, I am going to wait on the decision until I get the 292 out and opened up.
Despite being parked running, the engine will not turnover using the nut on the crank.
after a multi day soak with WD. Next step will be pulling and open up to see what damage time has done. Could the starter be hung up, not allowing the motor to turn over?
thanks.
Despite being parked running, the engine will not turnover using the nut on the crank.
after a multi day soak with WD. Next step will be pulling and open up to see what damage time has done. Could the starter be hung up, not allowing the motor to turn over?
thanks.
pull the plugs and fill the cylinders with kero or diesel fuel. Let it set for a few days. Pull the distributor and use a drill to pump the oil threwout the engine, it should register oil pressure on the gauge. Pull the starter off, put the trans in 3rd and rock the car back and forth. I have never in my entire life had a siezed ford that didn't come free and turn into a decent engine, and I've done a bunch of them. Key is patients, rust is pretty strong and stubborn.
PS. the "Y" block is my favorite engine, although I still haven't owned a flathead v8, so that may change some day if I live long enough.
Awesome, thanks for the hope! I refuse to give up, just never imagined it would be this difficult to turn. Good news is I have got it to move. More solvent and time.
Eric, have you had to hone the cylinders after you got the motors to turn over?
Not yet, what generally happens is they burn a bit of oil in the beginning and slowly work the rings back in. I'm actually pretty close to resurrecting my 390, have to do some painting of suspension parts and finish assembling the chassis then I'll start on the engine, I'm not a bit worried. And I'm not going to waste a ton of money on it unless it ends up actually having an issue. There are a crapload of places to spend money on your ride without wasting it before you know what your actual problems are. Like tons and tons of CHROME :-)