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My 2000 7.3 Excursion is cranking on its own and I have to disconnect the starter solenoid. Think it's the ignition switch. Is it the actual switch that the keys go in (so I will have to re-key the doors too) or is there an electrical assembly behind where the key goes in that I should replace instead?
Well the switch would have to fail on multiple points. So it's cranking and staying running? The starter has no time out so if the starter stays engaged then there could be a short. However if the starter shuts off after starting well then there is another direction to look.
after a thunderstorm one of our tractors was found a football fields distance from where we had parked it, we discovered the rain had shorted the ignition, and engaged the starter, it wasn't getting fuel, but it was in really low gear, so the starter slowly dragged it across the field until it gently hit a tree and stopped, melted the insulation on a couple wires and cooked both batterys as well, but a new set of batterys and 15 minutes of replacing wires and the ignition switch, and all better and drove it back to its spot.
No, it cranks-no-start. Burnt up the starter the first time it happened. Almost burnt up the whole truck.
No remote start, removed all that.
And the switch does weird things depending on the position when you wiggle it etc we we think that's it. But don't want to replace the key part if there's an electrical part that needs replaced.
Is there a separate electrical part from the key part?
no, the cylinder lock activates the switching assy nearby, there is a black leaf contact attached to the lock cylinder which comes in to use when the key is inserted, this control the key chime.
after a thunderstorm one of our tractors was found a football fields distance from where we had parked it, we discovered the rain had shorted the ignition, and engaged the starter, it wasn't getting fuel, but it was in really low gear, so the starter slowly dragged it across the field until it gently hit a tree and stopped, melted the insulation on a couple wires and cooked both batterys as well, but a new set of batterys and 15 minutes of replacing wires and the ignition switch, and all better and drove it back to its spot.
The story alone is worth the time and money to fix that. That's incredible.
The story alone is worth the time and money to fix that. That's incredible.
It was last seen in its parking spot around 7-8pm the night before, the next morning we noticed it was missing around 9am, no idea exactly how quickly it was rolling but it had a good 12-13 hours of alone time on a nice flat ground surface to slowly roll away. It had two of those great big Semi or Tractor size batterys on it, the ones that are about the size of 3 average car batterys by themselves.
While I wouldn't eliminate it, there are things far more likely to cause this issue than a fuse box issue.
Does the phantom or ghost cranking occur during or shortly after heavy rain or melting snow events? If so, then a leaking windshield can cause water to get into the GEM/fuse box and cause odd symptoms although yours is among the less common. Phantom or non-operational blower, radio, wipers, locks, and windows are the ones usually described. If you've got those, then this does point to this a s a stronger possibility.
And the switch does weird things depending on the position when you wiggle it etc we we think that's it. But don't want to replace the key part if there's an electrical part that needs replaced.
Is there a separate electrical part from the key part?
The electrical ignition switch itself or the linkage between it and the ignition key cylinder would be my prime suspects given the report of other weirdness when wiggling the key in the cylinder.
Yaa, we had water get in from the windshield as well. Been through all kinds of the electrical on this vehicle. Checked every single relay and fuse, etc. Replaced the fuse box. Sprayed all the connectors with anti-moisture spray. Anything we could think of. The switch is pretty manky still though so we're going to go through that because of the fact that it's not being consistent when you wiggle it. And of course the truck has 300k on it with probably the original switch so it's getting worn. We'll replace the electrical part of the ignition switch first and see if that does it. Still want to leave the momentary contact push button switch for the starter solenoid though because it's too risky to happen again and I don't want to replace another starter or burn down the truck. Really crazy story the first time it happened. Plus pushing a button to start the vehicle is just fun