My new truck already has a problem. It won’t crank with the key. I’m working on it checking things like the neutral saftey switch etc. I can easily start it using a remote starter button to jump from the battery to the starter relay, it’s just not getting 12V there when the key is in the crank position. All that to say this seems like a great circuit to interrupt with a kill switch for theft deterrent.

 

Start with the easy stuff like you are and the ignition cylinder.

As for a kill switch method... A switch that disables the starter is good, but a switch that leaves the starter to crank, but disables the ability for the truck to start is much better.

There are several ways to accomplish this on the 7.3L platform.

Reasoning behind this is if the starter is disabled, the thief may have the time to look for the switch or disabled component method in silence since there is no noise coming from the truck when they attempt to start it.

If the starter still cranks, but the engine doesn't fire off due to the kill switch. Not only is the cranking of the engine loud, but it is also frustrating for the thief. Eventually they will give up, the starter will burn up or the batteries will die.

Obviously this is not fool proof either, but think about it for a moment and proceed from there.

Regarding switches, you can be as creative as you like... Consider something like a magnetic reed switch that is normally open and hidden behind the plastic in the dashboard or glove box someplace. You remove the magnetic trigger like you remove your keys when you want the kill switch armed.

No physical switch to be found or even seen.

You could use an OEM looking connector similar to the brake controller or something. Build the opposite side of the connector as the "key" and when you remove the key connector the ignition is disabled.

Use a switch in plain sight labeled fog lights or something...

Get creative with it instead of using the common SPST switch, but think about what you want to happen when the kill switch is armed.

 

I would remove it/bypass it all. Start with that. Most aftermarket wiring jobs are very poor at best.

MLPS died on my 01 Expedition. Neutral starts now!

My kill switch is on my TS6 **** setting. I would prefer something else too, maybe like high beam switch on my Bricknose

 

Nice looking truck! I just picked up a 97 myself…

What did the Banks kit do? Different turbo/? Up pipes that much better?

Chris

 

I’m not really an expert on it (yet) but yes to your two questions plus the addition of an inter cooler.
Haven’t towed yet but there is a big difference pulling hills and power in general. My old truck got 19.5 mpg with mixed highway and two lane (cruise set between 65-75) this one seems to be getting 20.5. This one has highway tires where as the other one had off road tires so that probably contributes too.