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Hello again. So I ran the vaccum test and the piks below show the results at idle and at over 2000 rpms. I read that it could indicate a problem with the exhaust system since I got lower readings at higher rpms? I also got a code reader and the only I code I received was code 11 indicating every was ok. I realize the readings at idle should be higher.
The truck was running great until I went four-wheeling and I was hitting some huge boulders… And it did start running really bad right after that. I noticed that the shield that covers the catalytic converter was bent really bad. Didn’t notice a hole or anything. Tapped it with a hammer and I couldn’t hear anything loose? Is it possible that hitting the converter/exhaust caused a blockage and that is the problem? Thank you
After further reading,i took out the O2 sensor from the front of the converter, and it ran much better and had better vaccum(15-16) at idle. But once I checked it at higher rpms, it got lower than when the sensor was in(9-10). When I floored it it went down to almost zero.
The truck was running great until I went four-wheeling and I was hitting some huge boulders… And it did start running really bad right after that. I noticed that the shield that covers the catalytic converter was bent really bad. Didn’t notice a hole or anything. Tapped it with a hammer and I couldn’t hear anything loose? Is it possible that hitting the converter/exhaust caused a blockage and that is the problem? Thank you
After further reading,i took out the O2 sensor from the front of the converter, and it ran much better and had better vaccum(15-16) at idle. But once I checked it at higher rpms, it got lower than when the sensor was in(9-10). When I floored it it went down to almost zero.
With O2 sensor out at 2000+ RPM.
With O2 sensor out at idle. I’m at 4800 ft
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2014
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Vacuum will drop as you increase engine RPM, that is normal.
The O2 sensor only works after the engine is at warm running operating conditions.
Do you notice a difference will driving with O2 sensor plugged in vs not plugged in?
Does the engine run well first 5 minutes from being cold start up in morning, vs running worse after being warmed up?
The O2 sensor only works after the engine is at warm running operating conditions.
Do you notice a difference will driving with O2 sensor plugged in vs not plugged in?
Does the engine run well first 5 minutes from being cold start up in morning, vs running worse after being warmed up?
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Vacuum will drop as you increase engine RPM, that is normal.
The O2 sensor only works after the engine is at warm running operating conditions.
Do you notice a difference will driving with O2 sensor plugged in vs not plugged in?
Does the engine run well first 5 minutes from being cold start up in morning, vs running worse after being warmed up?
The O2 sensor only works after the engine is at warm running operating conditions.
Do you notice a difference will driving with O2 sensor plugged in vs not plugged in?
Does the engine run well first 5 minutes from being cold start up in morning, vs running worse after being warmed up?
So to answer your question, it barely stays running, so I haven’t driven it with the O2 sensor out. It runs bad all the time now. It shakes really bad and will die if I kick on the a/c or put it in drive to go unless I floored it. The vaccum was better after pulled the O2 and ran it at idle… but it still ran like crap. I have replaced the plugs/wires/distributor cap/rotor and the coil
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New User
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Vacuum will drop as you increase engine RPM, that is normal.
The O2 sensor only works after the engine is at warm running operating conditions.
Do you notice a difference will driving with O2 sensor plugged in vs not plugged in?
Does the engine run well first 5 minutes from being cold start up in morning, vs running worse after being warmed up?
The O2 sensor only works after the engine is at warm running operating conditions.
Do you notice a difference will driving with O2 sensor plugged in vs not plugged in?
Does the engine run well first 5 minutes from being cold start up in morning, vs running worse after being warmed up?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 3,556
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Well, to rule out blockage, disconnect the converter. If its part of the y-pipe, disconnect it from the manifolds.
If it runs great without the converter, that would be your problem.
I am assuming you took it back out of 4x4, and it still runs like crap. If it only runs like crap in 4x4, might be a computer issue.
If it runs great without the converter, that would be your problem.
I am assuming you took it back out of 4x4, and it still runs like crap. If it only runs like crap in 4x4, might be a computer issue.
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Well, to rule out blockage, disconnect the converter. If its part of the y-pipe, disconnect it from the manifolds.
If it runs great without the converter, that would be your problem.
I am assuming you took it back out of 4x4, and it still runs like crap. If it only runs like crap in 4x4, might be a computer issue.
If it runs great without the converter, that would be your problem.
I am assuming you took it back out of 4x4, and it still runs like crap. If it only runs like crap in 4x4, might be a computer issue.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,776
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From: Foothills of NC
Take off the distributor cap. Put a socket on the crankshaft bolt, then turn the crank until the rotor begins to turn. Stop, and mark the dampener, or better yet, rotate the crank to TDC.
Reverse the crank until the rotor begins to turn the other way. See how many degrees the crank reversed, or use a ruler. This will tell you how much wear is in the timing chain.
Reverse the crank until the rotor begins to turn the other way. See how many degrees the crank reversed, or use a ruler. This will tell you how much wear is in the timing chain.
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Take off the distributor cap. Put a socket on the crankshaft bolt, then turn the crank until the rotor begins to turn. Stop, and mark the dampener, or better yet, rotate the crank to TDC.
Reverse the crank until the rotor begins to turn the other way. See how many degrees the crank reversed, or use a ruler. This will tell you how much wear is in the timing chain.
Reverse the crank until the rotor begins to turn the other way. See how many degrees the crank reversed, or use a ruler. This will tell you how much wear is in the timing chain.
So when I reverse the crank, and I see the rotor begin to turn I stop and see how far the white mark moved from the 0? My apologies, I’ve never dealt with timing at all
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 633
From: Houston/Sugar Land
Not trying to jump in on yardbirds help but I think this description should help you with what he means for you to do. It's sourced.
With a wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt, turn the crankshaft at least two complete revolutions backward of rotation to remove any slack from the timing chain.
While you are still turning the crankshaft opposite to its running rotation, bring the timing mark on the harmonic balancer to top dead center (TDC) on the timing tab or pointer. With a helper watching the distributor rotor, gently turn the crankshaft in the proper direction of rotation.
As soon as the rotor tip starts to move, STOP! Read the amount of stretch on the timing tab.
For example, if the rotor tip began to move at 10° after TDC as measured at the timing mark, the chain has 10° of stretch. Any reading more than 4° to 5° is considered excessive and you need to schedule time to install a new timing chain and gear set.
With a wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt, turn the crankshaft at least two complete revolutions backward of rotation to remove any slack from the timing chain.
While you are still turning the crankshaft opposite to its running rotation, bring the timing mark on the harmonic balancer to top dead center (TDC) on the timing tab or pointer. With a helper watching the distributor rotor, gently turn the crankshaft in the proper direction of rotation.
As soon as the rotor tip starts to move, STOP! Read the amount of stretch on the timing tab.
For example, if the rotor tip began to move at 10° after TDC as measured at the timing mark, the chain has 10° of stretch. Any reading more than 4° to 5° is considered excessive and you need to schedule time to install a new timing chain and gear set.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,776
Likes: 862
From: Foothills of NC
Not trying to jump in on yardbirds help but I think this description should help you with what he means for you to do. It's sourced.
With a wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt, turn the crankshaft at least two complete revolutions backward of rotation to remove any slack from the timing chain.
While you are still turning the crankshaft opposite to its running rotation, bring the timing mark on the harmonic balancer to top dead center (TDC) on the timing tab or pointer. With a helper watching the distributor rotor, gently turn the crankshaft in the proper direction of rotation.
As soon as the rotor tip starts to move, STOP! Read the amount of stretch on the timing tab.
For example, if the rotor tip began to move at 10° after TDC as measured at the timing mark, the chain has 10° of stretch. Any reading more than 4° to 5° is considered excessive and you need to schedule time to install a new timing chain and gear set.
With a wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt, turn the crankshaft at least two complete revolutions backward of rotation to remove any slack from the timing chain.
While you are still turning the crankshaft opposite to its running rotation, bring the timing mark on the harmonic balancer to top dead center (TDC) on the timing tab or pointer. With a helper watching the distributor rotor, gently turn the crankshaft in the proper direction of rotation.
As soon as the rotor tip starts to move, STOP! Read the amount of stretch on the timing tab.
For example, if the rotor tip began to move at 10° after TDC as measured at the timing mark, the chain has 10° of stretch. Any reading more than 4° to 5° is considered excessive and you need to schedule time to install a new timing chain and gear set.
Thanks for the much better explanation. I worked pretty hard today, am tired, and didn't explain very well. Getting way to old to work like a young man.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 633
From: Houston/Sugar Land
NP just a little cut and paste. Have a good rest.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jul 2021
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Not trying to jump in on yardbirds help but I think this description should help you with what he means for you to do. It's sourced.
With a wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt, turn the crankshaft at least two complete revolutions backward of rotation to remove any slack from the timing chain.
While you are still turning the crankshaft opposite to its running rotation, bring the timing mark on the harmonic balancer to top dead center (TDC) on the timing tab or pointer. With a helper watching the distributor rotor, gently turn the crankshaft in the proper direction of rotation.
As soon as the rotor tip starts to move, STOP! Read the amount of stretch on the timing tab.
For example, if the rotor tip began to move at 10° after TDC as measured at the timing mark, the chain has 10° of stretch. Any reading more than 4° to 5° is considered excessive and you need to schedule time to install a new timing chain and gear set.
With a wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt, turn the crankshaft at least two complete revolutions backward of rotation to remove any slack from the timing chain.
While you are still turning the crankshaft opposite to its running rotation, bring the timing mark on the harmonic balancer to top dead center (TDC) on the timing tab or pointer. With a helper watching the distributor rotor, gently turn the crankshaft in the proper direction of rotation.
As soon as the rotor tip starts to move, STOP! Read the amount of stretch on the timing tab.
For example, if the rotor tip began to move at 10° after TDC as measured at the timing mark, the chain has 10° of stretch. Any reading more than 4° to 5° is considered excessive and you need to schedule time to install a new timing chain and gear set.
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