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anyway to repair the thin copper ribbons that feed power to the instrument cluster? one of the bands that feeds my tach broke. anyone know how to fix those?
anyway to repair the thin copper ribbons that feed power to the instrument cluster? one of the bands that feeds my tach broke. anyone know how to fix those?
I used to solder a small wire in them then tape over. BUT I would try this now.
You are talking of the ribbon part on the back of the cluster and it is the copper "tab" the plug contacts that pulled away right?
Then yes I am sure LMC has them.
Just note of the 3 different one:
Non-gauges
Gauges
Gauges with tach.
Dave ----
You are talking of the ribbon part on the back of the cluster and it is the copper "tab" the plug contacts that pulled away right?
Then yes I am sure LMC has them.
Just note of the 3 different one:
Non-gauges
Gauges
Gauges with tach.
Dave ----
yeah i was looking on their site after i saw your post. there numbers and letter are different from factory but i think its pretty clear since mine is gauges with tach
You are talking of the ribbon part on the back of the cluster and it is the copper "tab" the plug contacts that pulled away right?
Then yes I am sure LMC has them.
Just note of the 3 different one:
Non-gauges
Gauges
Gauges with tach.
Dave ----
yeah my paycheck should clear tuesday so im gonna order a new "board" and voltage regulator then
I'm not sure how well that would work in this application. It's made for repairing a defrost heater element, so it's probably going to have some resistance. Plus, it's intended for a rigid surface such as a rear window. It may not hold up at all on a flexible ribbon.
I'd suggest just running a new wire to completely bypass the broken ribbon. Use a ring eye terminal at the back of the tach. Tap the other end of the new wire into the vehicle harness close to where it plugs into the back of the instrument cluster.
My truck originally had the gauge package but no tach. When I added a factory tach, the vehicle harness already had the provisions, but the instrument cluster had the non-tach ribbon. I wired the tach to the vehicle harness with four simple jumpers, instead of tracking down a tach ribbon. Works great. You'd only need one for a repair.
I'm not sure how well that would work in this application. It's made for repairing a defrost heater element, so it's probably going to have some resistance. Plus, it's intended for a rigid surface such as a rear window. It may not hold up at all on a flexible ribbon.
I'd suggest just running a new wire to completely bypass the broken ribbon. Use a ring eye terminal at the back of the tach. Tap the other end of the new wire into the vehicle harness close to where it plugs into the back of the instrument cluster.
My truck originally had the gauge package but no tach. When I added a factory tach, the vehicle harness already had the provisions, but the instrument cluster had the non-tach ribbon. I wired the tach to the vehicle harness with four simple jumpers, instead of tracking down a tach ribbon. Works great. You'd only need one for a repair.
i thought about doing it. but after inspecting it further ive found my lights for the cluster dont work either. so im just gonna eat it and get a new "board" for it and not have to worry about it
You are talking of the ribbon part on the back of the cluster and it is the copper "tab" the plug contacts that pulled away right?
Then yes I am sure LMC has them.
Just note of the 3 different one: Non-gauges
Gauges
Gauges with tach.
Dave ----
Yes, and just beware that 1980 is unique, so there are actually SIX different versions of that printed circuit. Three different ones for 1980, and then three different ones for 1981-1986.
Yes, and just beware that 1980 is unique, so there are actually SIX different versions of that printed circuit. Three different ones for 1980, and then three different ones for 1981-1986.
Thanks Cory I forget sometimes about that odd ball year
Dave ----
Yes, and just beware that 1980 is unique, so there are actually SIX different versions of that printed circuit. Three different ones for 1980, and then three different ones for 1981-1986.
yeah i noticed that. it almost got me but i took a second look and made sure i had the right year model