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Yes it is in fact. Unless they've changed the way they make them, then it's still a bunch of strands. But I think you're ok at the ends because the strands are crimped by the mother-of-all-crimpers I believe.
So if you just nip the end you should not open up a can-o-worms so to speak. However, I feel like right tool will minimize the risk of fraying ends. Something like a cut-off wheel vs a snipper. But your oscillating tool might be the ticket too. Not sure though since I have not spent much time with that type of implement of destruction.
Maybe others have some insight. I've heard of people cutting speedo cables for decades with lots of different tools. But I've only used a die-grinder with thin cuttoff wheel, so I'm no expert on which ones are the best.
Paul
Oh! I have a dremel with some cut off wheels that may do the trick instead of the oscillating tool - much easier to control!
Update: I ended up ordering a larger speedo gear for the cable end, still 16 tooth. It's actually kind of blueish, and is longer and fits the cable just fine without having to press it in so hard. Still off on the speed since the gearing on the truck is off, but it fit in and seems to work fine. I got this gear from Speedometer gear driven drive pinion speedometer gear odometer gears
Update: I ended up ordering a larger speedo gear for the cable end, still 16 tooth. It's actually kind of blueish, and is longer and fits the cable just fine without having to press it in so hard. Still off on the speed since the gearing on the truck is off, but it fit in and seems to work fine. I got this gear from Speedometer gear driven drive pinion speedometer gear odometer gears
Update: I ended up ordering a larger speedo gear for the cable end, still 16 tooth. It's actually kind of blueish, and is longer and fits the cable just fine without having to press it in so hard. Still off on the speed since the gearing on the truck is off, but it fit in and seems to work fine. I got this gear from Speedometer gear driven drive pinion speedometer gear odometer gears
Question: did the clip work fine on the long gear? The "short" gears have bumps in the space where the clip goes presumably so the clip attaches better... does lack of bumps affects how the clip snaps in?
Got the blue gear today, got it in without much difficulty - didn't have to push too much and the clip went in without any issues. After removing the original brown gear and before installing the new gear, I noticed the speedo reset to the 0 position. I then hooked my drill to the speedo cable and when rotating CCW at full blast, the needle went up to 80 mph in a smooth motion. Variating the speed also variated what the needle was showing. However, once I attached the gear and then installed it in the TF, the speedo still appeared to be malfunctioning. It very slowly climbed to about 40 MPH, without dropping to a lower speed (or even 0 when stopped) and once at 40, did not proceed any further. The odometer, however, works perfectly fine so obviously the gear is spinning, the cable is spinning.
I have a line for a new speedo (thanks Rich!) so replacing it should not be a problem but wondering what folks are thinking could be the culprit... just a busted speedo?
My experience I just went thru with my 77 f150 351m np435 np205
just finished rebuild on engine, trans, and transfercase.
My Speedo used to bounce prob 10mph while accelerating, never steady on constant speed bit not as jumpy as was on acceleration. I did not touch my cable or speedo. The gear boxes rebuilt due to badly worn splines on the shafts. I cant say for certain thats what fixed it bit its steady now.
the worn splines together if i had to guess would move back and forth 15* the 2 new pieces together barely noticable in the hand and not at all with the eye.
I see alot of oil and dirt, exactly like mine. The spline I'm referring to goes into the transfer case and is only lubed by the transmission lube all the way thru the adapter.
Id replace the Speedo after the weird things its doing, maybe from running backwards. But the bouncing you may be stuck with unless you really want to get into it.
Possible cable problem and running by drill puts it in a different location bending differently possibly freeing it up inside too.
My experience I just went thru with my 77 f150 351m np435 np205
just finished rebuild on engine, trans, and transfercase.
My Speedo used to bounce prob 10mph while accelerating, never steady on constant speed bit not as jumpy as was on acceleration. I did not touch my cable or speedo. The gear boxes rebuilt due to badly worn splines on the shafts. I cant say for certain thats what fixed it bit its steady now.
the worn splines together if i had to guess would move back and forth 15* the 2 new pieces together barely noticable in the hand and not at all with the eye.
I see alot of oil and dirt, exactly like mine. The spline I'm referring to goes into the transfer case and is only lubed by the transmission lube all the way thru the adapter.
Id replace the Speedo after the weird things its doing, maybe from running backwards. But the bouncing you may be stuck with unless you really want to get into it.
Possible cable problem and running by drill puts it in a different location bending differently possibly freeing it up inside too.
Yeah I would not be surprised if the splines on the driving gear are worn - but its hard to tell with the naked eye. When it worked, the needle jiggle was not terrible - just a bit annoying but certainly something I can live with until the time the TF gets cracked open to reseal, etc (which it will be sooner than later).
Regarding your point about speedo cable movement - I purposely did not move it much when attaching the drill to it; trying to mimic position and angle as much as I can. But you have a valid point about the cable core - that had to have move a bit out of the speedo when I attached it to the drill so maybe that "freed" it up. In either case - I guess it wont hurt to have a spare speedo on hand.
I had a problem with "needle bounce" on mine one time. The guys here on the forum told me that these speedos are magnet driven. Then they said if your magnet is starting to wear out, that will make the needle bounce and accuracy will suffer.
I got a new speedo and that fixed me. Mine is accurate now and no needle bounce.
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