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So i just had my wifes 67 352 rebuilt and got it running, seems to run really well but a bit rich. Right now i used the carb that truck came with which was a holley 2 barrel which looks very new. I am not sure of size if i run the numbers it come up either 500 cfm or 350 cfm. My question is i have a working autolite off a 73 390, would that be ok to use ? as i assume the original carb for this motor is an autolite but not a smog version as the 73 is . Or am i wrong ? . I guess i could try and jet down the holley haven't dug into it too see if possible.
you can run the other one meaning it will fit but might still have the jetting problem, i dont think the smog aspect will play as issue other than it might be jetted lean? others on here will be better able to help im sure, i would google youtube holley jetting fe and i am sure there are good resources there
What size venturi is on the side of the autolite fuel bowl? Should be a 1.14=280cfm, 1.08=287cfm or maybe a 1.21. The street version like the one I use is a 350cfm, the 500cfm is more a performance race carb. You for sure can try the Autolite if it is a 1.14 or 1.21 venturi unit.
I like my Holley 2300 350 cfm that is on a 300 4.9L inline 6, it is also jetted on the rich side from the factory, .062 jets, I am going to a more lean .059 jet for better mileage.
If you are rejetting the carbs, the Holley 2300 2bbl uses the standard holley jet thread, the Autolite early model 2100 use Ford F jets & later model use Holley jets.
If your Autolite is a pre smog 2100 it more than likely uses Ford F jets and if it is a later smog 2100 or 2150 more than likely Holley jets. I would pull the top plate and check the jet size. They may not be original size. An easy way to tell if your Autolite is a 2100 or 2150 is the 2150 has a round base on the back side that runs mounting hole to mounting hole. Do let use know what venturi # is on the side of the float bowl.
I cant seem to find any numbers on side of float bowl. I did put it on and seems to run better but has a slight stumble in it upon acceration. I pulled the plugs after a spin around the block and they are much better with a nice light tan color. But now i have a new problem brakes dragging after a few miles. Found the PO has the front circuit to the back and back to front. So i need to remedy that before any real road test. I cant seem to get a break with this truck. Only thing i haven't rebuilt is brakes and rear suspension, rear springs are so weak that i can twist driveshaft by hand and watch the springs wrap up like a noodle. Brakes arent actually bad just plumbed wrong , LOL.
A couple of things about 2100 & 2150 2bbl carbs that might help. All factory Autolite & Motorcraft 2100 & 2150 carbs should have the name "Autolite or Motorcraft" on the carb side or top plate. They should also have the circle cast into the float bowl side as in picture. Inside that cast circle is a number indicating the venturi size. Might be 1.02 = 245 cfm, 1.08=287, 1.14=300, 1.21=351, 1.23=356,1.33=424.
Most all Autolite/Motorcraft 2100 carbs have a flat base back or a notched back and all 2150 carbs have a curved back that runs from rear base mounting hole to hole as in the other picture.
There is one other 2150 carb that you might run into, it is the China reproduction carb. It has the curved base back like the Motorcraft/Autolite 2150 but does not have the circle cast into the float bowl side with the venturi number most of the time.
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