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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

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Old Jun 22, 2021 | 09:43 PM
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PLEASE HELP

I have a 2004 Ford F-250 6.0 Powerstroke and it is giving me the codes P1335 and P0404 periodically. The check engine light turns on by itself. I changed the EGR valve twice in the past week to make sure the first one wasn’t faulty and it continues to trigger the check engine light and it’s the same codes each time.
Also when ever I turn on the (only on regular AC not max AC) you can smell heavy diesel exhaust coming through. I saw a guy on YouTube say to find an exhaust leak you could apply the brake and floor the gas and check for smoke but I didn’t see anything in the engine bay. My truck has no performance issues what so ever.
 

Last edited by Fernthebeast; Jun 22, 2021 at 09:48 PM.
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Old Jun 22, 2021 | 10:00 PM
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Are you getting 5v on Vref? It sounds like you might be getting false codes or the codes are triggering because system voltage is corrupted. The EGR wiring is right on top of the intake in a bundle with the EOT sensor and fan clutch wiring. That fan clutch wiring is often the culprit - because of its location next to the fan, pulleys, hot radiator hoses, etc., it can get cut, burned, or mangled and mess with your network signals. You may have to replace the harness or splice in a new EGR pigtail.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2021 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by IHateCommieCars
Are you getting 5v on Vref? It sounds like you might be getting false codes or the codes are triggering because system voltage is corrupted. The EGR wiring is right on top of the intake in a bundle with the EOT sensor and fan clutch wiring. That fan clutch wiring is often the culprit - because of its location next to the fan, pulleys, hot radiator hoses, etc., it can get cut, burned, or mangled and mess with your network signals. You may have to replace the harness or splice in a new EGR pigtail.
If I am getting 5v what else could it be?The last time I replaced the EGR was a month ago and I changed it last week and it was very dirty.And I read that the EGR valve should be changed every 2-3 oil changes so why would it be so dirty?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 12:15 AM
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From my service manual, those codes indicate a malfunctioning EGR valve. But you replaced the valve and, if I'm understanding correctly, you cleared the codes and they came back. Did they come back immediately? As in within a few miles of driving? If so, it seems to me that is faster than it's possible to dirty up the valve, so you might have an electrical failure sending a false code. On the other hand, if the code doesn't return for days/week/several hundred miles, and the valve is dirty when removed, then you're getting a lot of soot in your intake clogging up your valve.

You don't say how many miles on the truck - maybe you just got 20 years of soot buildup in that intake.

You should park the truck overnight nose down an incline, then remove the EGR in the morning and look down the hole into the intake to see whether there is moisture/liquid in the intake. That can gum up an EGR valve and is a sign of a leaking EGR cooler, which needs to be fixed before it ruptures. Do you see any oil in your coolant?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 12:28 AM
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Check the wiring at the valve connector and trace it back to where it joins the main harness.
Chances are that you will find some tired insulation in the are around the fuel filter housing.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by IHateCommieCars
From my service manual, those codes indicate a malfunctioning EGR valve. But you replaced the valve and, if I'm understanding correctly, you cleared the codes and they came back. Did they come back immediately? As in within a few miles of driving? If so, it seems to me that is faster than it's possible to dirty up the valve, so you might have an electrical failure sending a false code. On the other hand, if the code doesn't return for days/week/several hundred miles, and the valve is dirty when removed, then you're getting a lot of soot in your intake clogging up your valve.

You don't say how many miles on the truck - maybe you just got 20 years of soot buildup in that intake.

You should park the truck overnight nose down an incline, then remove the EGR in the morning and look down the hole into the intake to see whether there is moisture/liquid in the intake. That can gum up an EGR valve and is a sign of a leaking EGR cooler, which needs to be fixed before it ruptures. Do you see any oil in your coolant?
When I first bought the truck around 2 months ago it had the air filter light on so I replaced it with a brand new one. Also when I had first changed the EGR and I thought it was faulty I exchanged it under warranty and noticed it got dirty really fast after about 4000 miles.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 12:14 PM
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Where are you buying these EGR valves?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by xcrsp440
Where are you buying these EGR valves?
I bought an aftermarket egr from oreilys
 
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 01:47 PM
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I will let others chime in with more EGR experience. But in general there are some areas where aftermarket parts are not desirable. Either they don’t work properly from the start or fail very early.
Seems like aftermarket just doesn’t have the same quality control or precision as OEM parts.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 01:59 PM
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For engine parts you really need to stick with Ford parts.
Most if not all of he low cost parts are junk from China.
Something you want to avoid.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 04:58 PM
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For the record, you prolly need to go through the formal diagnostic process, which, I expect, means checking voltage/resistance/continuity/whatever those words mean on the harness first.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 05:34 PM
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Also, the soot in the intake should be cleaned out by scraping it loose as far into the manifold as you can get. Use a vacuum cleaner with a small hose to suck out as much soot as you can
 
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Don Naslund
Also, the soot in the intake should be cleaned out by scraping it loose as far into the manifold as you can get. Use a vacuum cleaner with a small hose to suck out as much soot as you can
Yep. But some intakes can be frightening. Very clogged, lots of gunk. And there can be carbon build-up partially closing some of the ports on the head where that intake attaches. Ideally, you take the intake off and clean everything up.

But, if you don't remove the intake, just be careful not to loosen any of the gunk and not suck it out. Prolly don't want chunks of that sludge making their way into the cylinders.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by IHateCommieCars
For the record, you prolly need to go through the formal diagnostic process, which, I expect, means checking voltage/resistance/continuity/whatever those words mean on the harness first.
How could I do it because I’m not a mechanic and some mechanics want to charge me way to much to do just the diagnostic.
 
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Old Jun 24, 2021 | 07:23 AM
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The diagnostic is done. You either have a bad EGR valve, bad wiring going to the valve, or so much crud in your intake that it keeps clogging up the valve. You've replaced the valve with a cheap China version. You've been told to use OEM valve, but you haven't done that. I've asked you to check the intake, but you've not reported back. I've told you to check the wires, but you're not a mechanic. I'd suggest placing your truck under your pillow tonight and hope the EGR Fairy visits, but I'm not sure it will fit.

I can't tell from your user name - are you a woman? The solution to your problem is to become an amateur mechanic, like many of the rest of us here. Buy a voltmeter, watch a YouTube on how to use it, ask one of us to provide the diagnostic procedure, then dive in. Guys call that "growing some." It's easier when you know other guys have your back. We're here if you choose to grow some.

If you are a woman, I understand. Hopefully, you've developed a new-found appreciation for the male ******** during this unfortunate time. Tell your friends. From our perspective, too many have forgotten.
 
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