PLEASE HELP
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PLEASE HELP
I have a 2004 Ford F-250 6.0 Powerstroke and it is giving me the codes P1335 and P0404 periodically. The check engine light turns on by itself. I changed the EGR valve twice in the past week to make sure the first one wasn’t faulty and it continues to trigger the check engine light and it’s the same codes each time.
Also when ever I turn on the (only on regular AC not max AC) you can smell heavy diesel exhaust coming through. I saw a guy on YouTube say to find an exhaust leak you could apply the brake and floor the gas and check for smoke but I didn’t see anything in the engine bay. My truck has no performance issues what so ever.
Also when ever I turn on the (only on regular AC not max AC) you can smell heavy diesel exhaust coming through. I saw a guy on YouTube say to find an exhaust leak you could apply the brake and floor the gas and check for smoke but I didn’t see anything in the engine bay. My truck has no performance issues what so ever.
Last edited by Fernthebeast; Jun 22, 2021 at 09:48 PM.
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Are you getting 5v on Vref? It sounds like you might be getting false codes or the codes are triggering because system voltage is corrupted. The EGR wiring is right on top of the intake in a bundle with the EOT sensor and fan clutch wiring. That fan clutch wiring is often the culprit - because of its location next to the fan, pulleys, hot radiator hoses, etc., it can get cut, burned, or mangled and mess with your network signals. You may have to replace the harness or splice in a new EGR pigtail.
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Are you getting 5v on Vref? It sounds like you might be getting false codes or the codes are triggering because system voltage is corrupted. The EGR wiring is right on top of the intake in a bundle with the EOT sensor and fan clutch wiring. That fan clutch wiring is often the culprit - because of its location next to the fan, pulleys, hot radiator hoses, etc., it can get cut, burned, or mangled and mess with your network signals. You may have to replace the harness or splice in a new EGR pigtail.
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From my service manual, those codes indicate a malfunctioning EGR valve. But you replaced the valve and, if I'm understanding correctly, you cleared the codes and they came back. Did they come back immediately? As in within a few miles of driving? If so, it seems to me that is faster than it's possible to dirty up the valve, so you might have an electrical failure sending a false code. On the other hand, if the code doesn't return for days/week/several hundred miles, and the valve is dirty when removed, then you're getting a lot of soot in your intake clogging up your valve.
You don't say how many miles on the truck - maybe you just got 20 years of soot buildup in that intake.
You should park the truck overnight nose down an incline, then remove the EGR in the morning and look down the hole into the intake to see whether there is moisture/liquid in the intake. That can gum up an EGR valve and is a sign of a leaking EGR cooler, which needs to be fixed before it ruptures. Do you see any oil in your coolant?
You don't say how many miles on the truck - maybe you just got 20 years of soot buildup in that intake.
You should park the truck overnight nose down an incline, then remove the EGR in the morning and look down the hole into the intake to see whether there is moisture/liquid in the intake. That can gum up an EGR valve and is a sign of a leaking EGR cooler, which needs to be fixed before it ruptures. Do you see any oil in your coolant?
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From my service manual, those codes indicate a malfunctioning EGR valve. But you replaced the valve and, if I'm understanding correctly, you cleared the codes and they came back. Did they come back immediately? As in within a few miles of driving? If so, it seems to me that is faster than it's possible to dirty up the valve, so you might have an electrical failure sending a false code. On the other hand, if the code doesn't return for days/week/several hundred miles, and the valve is dirty when removed, then you're getting a lot of soot in your intake clogging up your valve.
You don't say how many miles on the truck - maybe you just got 20 years of soot buildup in that intake.
You should park the truck overnight nose down an incline, then remove the EGR in the morning and look down the hole into the intake to see whether there is moisture/liquid in the intake. That can gum up an EGR valve and is a sign of a leaking EGR cooler, which needs to be fixed before it ruptures. Do you see any oil in your coolant?
You don't say how many miles on the truck - maybe you just got 20 years of soot buildup in that intake.
You should park the truck overnight nose down an incline, then remove the EGR in the morning and look down the hole into the intake to see whether there is moisture/liquid in the intake. That can gum up an EGR valve and is a sign of a leaking EGR cooler, which needs to be fixed before it ruptures. Do you see any oil in your coolant?
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I bought an aftermarket egr from oreilys
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I will let others chime in with more EGR experience. But in general there are some areas where aftermarket parts are not desirable. Either they don’t work properly from the start or fail very early.
Seems like aftermarket just doesn’t have the same quality control or precision as OEM parts.
Seems like aftermarket just doesn’t have the same quality control or precision as OEM parts.
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For the record, you prolly need to go through the formal diagnostic process, which, I expect, means checking voltage/resistance/continuity/whatever those words mean on the harness first.
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But, if you don't remove the intake, just be careful not to loosen any of the gunk and not suck it out. Prolly don't want chunks of that sludge making their way into the cylinders.
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How could I do it because I’m not a mechanic and some mechanics want to charge me way to much to do just the diagnostic.
Logistics Pro
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The diagnostic is done. You either have a bad EGR valve, bad wiring going to the valve, or so much crud in your intake that it keeps clogging up the valve. You've replaced the valve with a cheap China version. You've been told to use OEM valve, but you haven't done that. I've asked you to check the intake, but you've not reported back. I've told you to check the wires, but you're not a mechanic. I'd suggest placing your truck under your pillow tonight and hope the EGR Fairy visits, but I'm not sure it will fit.
I can't tell from your user name - are you a woman? The solution to your problem is to become an amateur mechanic, like many of the rest of us here. Buy a voltmeter, watch a YouTube on how to use it, ask one of us to provide the diagnostic procedure, then dive in. Guys call that "growing some." It's easier when you know other guys have your back. We're here if you choose to grow some.
If you are a woman, I understand. Hopefully, you've developed a new-found appreciation for the male ******** during this unfortunate time. Tell your friends. From our perspective, too many have forgotten.
I can't tell from your user name - are you a woman? The solution to your problem is to become an amateur mechanic, like many of the rest of us here. Buy a voltmeter, watch a YouTube on how to use it, ask one of us to provide the diagnostic procedure, then dive in. Guys call that "growing some." It's easier when you know other guys have your back. We're here if you choose to grow some.
If you are a woman, I understand. Hopefully, you've developed a new-found appreciation for the male ******** during this unfortunate time. Tell your friends. From our perspective, too many have forgotten.
