I searched and see a lot about higher amps Alts and alts getting hot a big issue.
I switched out to a 160 amp and it still persists at case getting hot to the touch also only seems to charge at max 13.5. I'm getting ready to add some extra interior electronics that will draw about 40-50 amps when using them. Should I go with a bigger amp Alt I thought 110 (stock) + 50 amps add-ons 160 amp alt I would be fine now I'm not sure? If I upgrade to a 190/200 amp is stock wires big enough or do I need to upgrade wires too?

 

I would call FICMREPAIR about the alternator and cables. The person I spoke with was very informative. He actually tried to talk me out of buying the 270 amp alternator. Personally I think you could get by with their cable upgrade kit as it distributes charging power equally to the batteries.

I had a battery charging issue. When checking the batteries I noticed with the factory harness one battery was always drained more than the other.

Like I said, give FICMREPAIR.COM a call. Very nice and helpful guys.

 

I have had several different alternators and they all seem to run hot to the touch. Even factory units. Proper cabling and good clean grounds are very important. B.

 

All you need with 180+ amp ammeters is an additional 4ga positive cable run from the alternator to the passenger positive post with fusible links or a fuse wired in series. To me, that kit is more for show than electrical performance.

Before going to a bigger alternator, why not see how your truck does. People rarely use the ability of the larger alternators they supply.

 

Jack,

I've been meaning to ask you. Did you ever put together a recommended list of wiring upgrades? I watched most of your videos talking about each specific area in detail but I couldn't find an overall video showing recommendations based on your findings.

Thanks!

 

Dave,

In some of the videos, I had a list.

I never fully did because I interrupted what I was planning on showing in the video set when I yanked the motor. There are other setups I'm planning on but haven't tested them yet. And those have become more relevant as Ford has stopped selling the main cables.

My layouts were always about the best performance, but not spending more money than necessary. If we up the size of the alternator, the alternator to the positive battery post needs upgrading once past 180a. That can be done with 4ga using the shortest path, which isn't eye candy. The longer the cable, the larger and more expensive the cable needed, so that's not needed in my view. You could run it to the driver's battery too, but then an upgrade in wire size is needed to 2ga. A larger cable than either of those is unnecessary unless you want to push 230-300a and actually use all of that amps.

The battery to battery and extra ground cable help with starter draw and even out the battery life, but do minimal for post starting. So one has to figure if that interests them. I feel the biggest asset in the cables was an 8 to 6ga cable running from the driver's negative to the FICM and PCM grounds (2). That's the cheapest cable and the most effective o help with electronics.

Once we get past those additions to help the stock cables, you have to go to a full cable replacement. Now we are getting into money, and if doing that, I prefer to go to my ideal, which I've never posted as yet.

Prices may be outdated, but this is what I did have in some videos. To supplement the stock cables to an ideal cost total about $90. Laying over a parallel cable of the same size more than doubles a cable sizing. But the cable battery to battery is limited due to the clamping force of the 5mm bolts.

 

Just a little more help for Jack: Follow the spec's he gives in the "what I've Done" section - those are the most up to date. I went with a 24" 1/0 Ground Frame-to-Block and it is way longer than needed, so follow his top part and get it 18" - 20".

Hope that helps...

 

Thanks Scott. All that was a lifetime away.

 

Five0, those simple wiring upgrades that TMT suggest, were good for almost 0.5v of additional power. FYI I have the Bosch 140a alternator with an overdrive pulley.

 

Jack,

Just to clarify on your "Do no matter what" section. I think you are referencing the driver-side battery to PCM/FICM ground, not passenger?

Also I must be an idiot, I thought both the FICM & PCM tie into the ground post that is located right behind the driver battery? Or is the FICM ground somewhere else?

 

No, Dave, technically, I'm the idiot.

I hadn't looked at the album where I had all the images used in the related video for some time and never deleted the image in error. So when I went to grab the image for the post, I grabbed the first one, not remembering one was a correction, the one to the right..

The FICM ground is singular right by the hood's lift cylinder post, shared by the first PCM ground connection. The second PCM ground connection is at the firewall and is shared with the transmission and other important electronics grounds.

I'm sorry for the confusion posting the wrong image that I never deleted the one in error, I that I didn't bother to read what I linked in. It's now changed.