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Old Jun 12, 2021 | 09:29 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by torq'ta 5 8
If money is tight and/or you need truck up and running, you can get, a parts store brand ICM, but get them to test it, before you leave, too many times we've all walked out parts store with a new 'un' working part, and not know, until we get home and try it...and back to store!
Dont forget the the heat sink paste(not dielectric grease) to put on back of new ICM.

UPDATE: started it up this morning and it still had the bog, its almost like the RPM’s fluctuate then settle, then decides to bog. Revved it twice, put it in reverse, backed up, drive pulled forward then park. And the problem dissapeared. Think that ICM might really be the culprit. Im gonna run the test between today and tomorrow and make sure the fuel rail has enough pressure. Ive been told ICM’s directly impact the injectors, so i feel pretty confident thats my problem
 
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Old Jun 12, 2021 | 09:30 AM
  #17  
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Did you see my post above?
 
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Old Jun 12, 2021 | 10:30 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Conanski
Did you see my post above?
I just now did, thank you for that. I’ll be replacing the ICM tomorrow. Autozone has the wells in stock, ill have them test it before i leave
 
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Old Jun 12, 2021 | 01:31 PM
  #19  
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I have never seen a bad Ignition Control Module (ICM), aka TFI, trigger a hard fault code. Possible but never experienced it myself. Get the correct ICM then see what happens. For sure it will clear code 212 and may also improve the engine performance somewhat.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2021 | 06:35 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by torq'ta 5 8
If money is tight and/or you need truck up and running, you can get, a parts store brand ICM, but get them to test it, before you leave, too many times we've all walked out parts store with a new 'un' working part, and not know, until we get home and try it...and back to store!
Dont forget the the heat sink paste(not dielectric grease) to put on back of new ICM.

just put in the new ICM, guy at the parts counter tested it 3 times.
started up great, right where it used to bog down it skipped for a second then stayed up, the normal RPM’s where it would usually bog down while driving it did the small skip then picked back up, while on the drive it got less and less frequent until it didnt happen at all, got it up to temp on my way home and put the code reader on it. Still has the EGR/Purge can circuit codes on it post smog/AIR delete, figuring out how to make those go away is the next step
 
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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 08:30 AM
  #21  
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Glad you got the Code 212 and drivability issues resolved. The easy button to resolve the other codes is put the CANP solenoid and EGR components back on.
 
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