That is if you run the style of valve that only shuts off one side of the circuit. The one I linked to provides a full return path that cuts the heater core out of the circuit. It gets spliced into both of the heater hoses.

 

I removed mine completely when I installed my KC Stage 1. I installed a bolt with a nilock nut on the intake tube (I also coated it with silicone to help seal). I plugged the nipple on the spider with a rubber cap and one of those spring loaded clamps. I can take a picture if you would like...

 

That is the same valve I have been using for years after the Diesel Site valve failed miserably and they blamed it on my vacuum pump.

The Ranger/Excursion vacuum valve is a nice addition that cuts flow from both hoses.

If using the PEX valve, either line will do as it is a loop and if either path is blocked, the loop is no longer. Some owners use a PEX valve in each hose. Really it is your choice, all of which are effective.

I keep waiting for @RacinJasonWV to invent the doohickey gizmo he wanted in order to have cool vent air, max AC assist and heater via the turn of a ****.

 

All the new goodies are here, engine bay is cleaned, extra preventatives complete, time to get her put back together!!

 

I wish I could take credit but it wasn’t my idea. Another member was doing the mod (in the long thread about the valve) and using a switch to control. I asked why not do the normal Max AC vacuum method and he said his way would provide the ability for cool vent air.

I’m hoping to kick it up a notch though. Recently been considering an electric valve (with relay) controlled by a micro switch on the blender door. Completely invisible to the user.

I was waiting for warmer weather to warrant the work but life has gotten in the way over the last month. No spare time for tinkering anymore. Someday… hopefully before 100° weather hits.

 

Nice pile of parts! The PMS begins in earnest!

Check that the new uppipe collector fits properly to the back of the turbo. That kit looked excellent (and at a fab price) but as a great man said, trust but verify.

For the new boot clamps compare the 2 large ones to a small one. The last set I saw the big ones were missing a little alignment collar.

Ya got the plenum reinforcers there?

 

If I understand this correctly. is this where Max AC has it's own switch (like a push button in Japanese cars) as opposed to being one of several modes on the AC mode switch? Or do you mean anytime the blend door is in full heater core bypass you want the coolant bypass/cutoff valve to activate? If it is the latter, you can probably skip the microswitch and go with a mechanically actuated pneumatic valve.

 

Oops. Detour on the OP’s thread…

I meant the latter.

Originally planned to use a push button “Max AC” type of switch near the fan & blender **** controls. Let’s call it a “Full Cold” button.

More recently figured I could do an invisible switch on the actual blender door. This is all just hypothetical since I haven’t actually looked at it yet. Just thinking back to some other door cables I have worked with. My thought is the only time you would want the heater core cutoff is when the **** is set to full blue (cold). My wife could work this and not even know she’s doing it.

Again, the point of this method is to allow a vent mode with the heater core bypass and also allow my wife to twist the **** to blend whenever she wanted. I know this complicates a simple ball valve fix, but my wife would NOT like that. And I’m all about keeping the peace. l’m actually a weird one who doesn’t like to run the AC unless it’s very hot out. If I can get unheated vent air then I’d use that on decent days. But currently “vent” is much warmer than ambient due to the heater core adding to the mix even when the blender is saying no. Besides, who wants to do things the easy normal way? I know Mr Turbonator understands.

Noob, you shared an electric valve version in the other thread which I had considered using. Now it seems you are full of ideas with even another option! I’ll probably text you to pick your brain a bit when I finally get serious about doing it. Thanks!

 

I diiid? I don't 'member. You 'member?

 

Yep got the plenum reinforcers too. Everything under the hood is installed except pcv reroute.

 

You going to pressure test the plenum seals? Mine looked fine externally but turned out to be a major leak source.

 

Sorry for the radio silence, I’ve been stupid busy. The plenums tested good and everything is back together. I had my first test run today and it was awesome! Plugged the red and green lines, relocated my boost sensor to the plug where the intake heater was, PCV reroute, Hydra installed. It all came together pretty well.

 

So as far as the performance, WOW it’s like a completely different truck. The turbo starts to take a good bite at about 1700rpm and has a solid consistent boost all the way up. I topped out at 28psi where as stock I never saw over 19. I never got over about 2800rpm. There isn’t much improvement off the line but like was stated earlier it shined when loaded. I hooked up to my boat 4K, not heavy but something. Once spooled around 1700 it was very responsive. Passing would be no issue. Even hammer down the EGTs never got over 1000.
I did play with the PHP tunes. The 65hp daily driver seems like the best spot for me. But even the 100hp street tune did very well with almost no smoke and EGTs about 1200 hammer down. I very rarely drive like that but you know I had to see what it would do😁. I will have some real towing numbers next week after our camper trip.

 

So I gotta ask for the details since I don't seem much of them posted in the thread.

I recognize most of the stuff, but I'm nosy and still learning. Left to right, back to front,

• Coozie (shouldn't be empty)
• RiffRaff CAC boots
• What's in bag in front of clamps? looks like a plug from here
• Boot clamps
• Plenum reinforcement in clear bags in front of clamps?
• RiffRaff 6637 kit
• Hydra
• Up-pipes and collector
• Not sure what's leaning against the Donaldson box
• Turbo Pedestal with EBPV delete
• Not sure what's in bag beside/behind the pedestal?
• Obviously an overgrown snail that's been listening to too much heavy metal.
  • Which KC Turbo did you go with?

My questions are in the list, but here they are again for clarity.

1) What's in the bag infront of the CAC boots, I don't recognize that at all.
2) What's leaning against the Donaldson box to the right side?
3) What's to the right of the turbo pedestal?
4) Which turbo did you pick?

 

Outstanding news and exactly what we wanted to see!

Once you get more time behind the wheel, please visit the turbo matrix thread at the link below. A lot of people are interested in what you have to say and we are grateful you are here to share your experiences.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...x-concept.html