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After an hour of cleaning up and organizing I got the “Thick Chick” backed into the shop and a little tare down started. She will be getting new up pipes, new KC turbo with ebpv delete, new boots, new intake set up, Hydra, and 4” turbo back exhaust. I have never done any of this before so it should be interesting! Good Lord help me, I’ve watched about 6 hrs of how too videos. Y’all have any recommendations of things I should address while the turbo is out. I don’t appear to have any fuel or oil leaks right now, the valley is clean and dry.
Thanks Chad
1) Take pictures as you go.... refer to pictures when needed
2) Be very careful that you do not drop any bolts/nuts/stuff.... into holes where they do not belong.... Cover holes that go into never never land that you never want to drop something into.....
3) Go slow
4) Ask any question, large or small.... as a herd, the correct...semi correct.... and tried and true work around will be brought out. Don't 'fight' the truck... there maybe and usually is a very easy way to do want you want, from all the years of "been there, done that, should have done the other way first".
5) The list could go on... but, time to get to the fun.....
if its a "while im in there" type thing, think hard about replacing the pass side fuel line, and both sets of rubber donut seals in the driverside line. Pass line rear fitting should be easier with turbo out. wouldnt hurt to do Riff raff plenum boots and tbolt clamps as prev maint.
Maybe consider hpop lines and fuel bowl rebuild as another piece of mind.
Put a 3/4" pex ball valve on heater core line to cool your ac 8* more during summer, and maybe consider checking/covering the 40 pin connector where it can rub the valve cover with a pc of heater hose cut down the middle and zip tied?
Not sure if it was on your list, but at the very least do the RiffRaff plenum inserts and new plenum clamps with those new boots. I did the RiffRaff steel braided fuel lines when I did my turbo, and it was definitely easier with the turbo out. However, if I had it to do over again I probably would leave it alone. Despite how careful and meticulous I was during the installation, I still had a fuel leak on that back fitting post install. I had to remove the passenger side intercooler pipe to get to it to fix it. So now I'm under the belief that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. You can remove the passenger fuel line clamp that people mention rubs the line and causes potential issues....
Although not required to have turbo out of the way, I removed my valve covers when whole top of motor was off. I torqued the injectors, replaced my glow plugs, and did the 50 cent mod. I just figured all of that would be easier at that time.
Ok,
I have a ton of pics, I do this every time I take anything apart!
I had ordered a complete set of new riffraff boots, plenum inserts, and clamps that should be here tomorrow.
Rags went in the plenum as soon as the spider came out. Years back I had to pull the head and oil pan on a Kubota because of a mistake like that.
Thanks for the reminder on the 40pin. IT IS A MUST!!!!!!! I spend two days on a creeper and all under the hood trying to diagnose that exact same issue on my 02. Nothing a piece of heater hose and some elect tape wont prevent.
I will look into the fuel line, seals, fuel bowl rebuild, and HPOP lines.
The valve in the heater hose line is an awesome idea.
Looks good just got done doing mine with injectors, now I have go find out where my boost leak is. Ran great for a day! Like how your camper shell is up in the garage, have to figure out how to put mine up there like that
Looks good just got done doing mine with injectors, now I have go find out where my boost leak is. Ran great for a day! Like how your camper shell is up in the garage, have to figure out how to put mine up there like that
Good luck with the boost leak. I’ll try to remember to get you some pics of my camper hanger thing. It wasn’t very difficult or expensive.
So evening two of the tare down is in the books and I made some great progress. I was dreading the v band clamps on the turbo. No joke it took me 20 minutes to get the turbo out. The clamp on the babies but spun loose buy grabbing and wiggling it!! The only thing I did was spray them both down with a liberal helping of Royal Purple Maxfilm yesterday night. Then the exhaust and down pipe came out before calling it a night.
But now I’m concerned that I have the start of an oil leak some where. There is a light oily film around the plenums. What do y’all think?
Agreed with JD Green, looks like normal oily 7.3 goodness. Better boots and clamps will help seal it up better.
I did the Ranger valve mod as FTN suggested. I love how it works only on AC Max so I can still adjust temp on normal AC, and does it's thing automatically. But it's easy to do anytime and there's plenty on your plate, so I'd schedule that for later.
For the passenger side fuel line some folks just remove the clamp. Recently saw this under the hood of another member, kind of a surprise as it was otherwise very OEM.
The new clamps for the IC side of the boots can be a trick. If they bind up while tightening back off a bit to let the various bits of it line up properly. You can always use the OEM clamp there.
Another place to put some split heater hose: the fitting on the PS pump that bonks on the driver side IC pipe. When you remove the pipe you'll see the shiny spot where it rubs.
Pic below I circled an area that caught my eye. Did you clean that spot? It looks like pressure is leaking past the plenum seal, cleaning the area. Hope it's not.
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