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You can do the resistor mod which is the cheapest, but I went with the connector for a tight seal.
At the time I did my turbo I didn't know about these. You may want to get some of these rings to help seal the intercooler pipes to the intercooler if you are using the Riffraff boots that don't have the bump out seal.... https://www.dieselsite.com/dieselsit...boosthose.aspx
Agreed with JD Green, looks like normal oily 7.3 goodness. Better boots and clamps will help seal it up better.
I did the Ranger valve mod as FTN suggested. I love how it works only on AC Max so I can still adjust temp on normal AC, and does it's thing automatically. But it's easy to do anytime and there's plenty on your plate, so I'd schedule that for later.
For the passenger side fuel line some folks just remove the clamp. Recently saw this under the hood of another member, kind of a surprise as it was otherwise very OEM.
The new clamps for the IC side of the boots can be a trick. If they bind up while tightening back off a bit to let the various bits of it line up properly. You can always use the OEM clamp there.
Another place to put some split heater hose: the fitting on the PS pump that bonks on the driver side IC pipe. When you remove the pipe you'll see the shiny spot where it rubs.
Pic below I circled an area that caught my eye. Did you clean that spot? It looks like pressure is leaking past the plenum seal, cleaning the area. Hope it's not.
Thanks for the advice, and yes, I wiped that spot with a rag so I could get a look at the residue in better light. I am going to try and pressure test the plenums before I go back together with everything.
You can do the resistor mod which is the cheapest, but I went with the connector for a tight seal.
At the time I did my turbo I didn't know about these. You may want to get some of these rings to help seal the intercooler pipes to the intercooler if you are using the Riffraff boots that don't have the bump out seal.... https://www.dieselsite.com/dieselsit...boosthose.aspx
Thanks for the links, I will check both of those out!
I was concerned about the spot at the arrow. It looked like the sealant is a little bulged out there and I thought it appeared as an active leak. But since you wiped it down that kind of takes away from what I was seeing as active (clean).
I would want to pressure test those before getting all your new goodies in place. You could build a plenum boost leak detector. I’ve never done that but seems to be simple. Some type of pvc cap that will fit into the plenum boot drilled and tapped for a air fitting. I don’t think you’d need to go crazy with the pressure, just something that will let you do the soapy water test.
They are hard to see to do a check with the turbo and stuff in place. And the turbo would have to come back out to reseal if you found it later.
You have already ordered or the guys have already suggested most of the things I was going to mention adding to the build. Plenum inserts, good clamps, fuel line clamp, PS hose protector, etc….
If you go PEX ball valve on the heater hose from head, a cut old radiator hose and zip ties makes a good insulator for the ball valve, similar to the 42pin and power steering spots
If you go PEX ball valve on the heater hose from head, a cut old radiator hose and zip ties makes a good insulator for the ball valve, similar to the 42pin and power steering spots
Is it hose from the head or hose from the pump? I forget. it's been awhile....LOL
Oops I breezed through the suggestions too quickly. The Power Steering hose location I was thinking of is where it likes to rub the shock mount. I added a piece of split heater hose over the offending rub point.
Question, watch line red or green go on the bottom at the double connection? I believe I had the green line on the bottom and first the ninety at the turbo cracked and now the line at the double connection cracked. Bought both from RR within 6 months or so just went and got one at the dealer, $49.00 and some change out the door. Don't want to buy another.
Question, watch line red or green go on the bottom at the double connection? I believe I had the green line on the bottom and first the ninety at the turbo cracked and now the line at the double connection cracked. Bought both from RR within 6 months or so just went and got one at the dealer, $49.00 and some change out the door. Don't want to buy another.
Not many people still run the red/green lines these days…
Seriously though, I think the OP should run without them on his new KC stage 1. The KC wastegate actuator is mechanical design. The only thing that happens when connecting the red/green is the PCM could blow the gate open early. No one wants that.
So is it best to leave the red/green lines in place and just plug the red, or should it all be removed?
Either way works. I removed mine for a cleaner look (pre-T4) and to remove the clutter.
The nipple on the spider can be capped with a small rubber plug and zip tie to hold in place. You’ll need a screw or such in the intake boot when removing the green line.
Not many people still run the red/green lines these days…
Seriously though, I think the OP should run without them on his new KC stage 1. The KC wastegate actuator is mechanical design. The only thing that happens when connecting the red/green is the PCM could blow the gate open early. No one wants that.
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