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I'll check at the EGR sensor for VRef but I'll have to find which pin to prod. I can hook the fluke up to the CKP sensor at the connector and measure the pulse while cranking as well, to make certain that I am getting a signal, and that it is consistent.
Brown wire with white stripe on the EGR connector (pin D).
The CKP reading you should be getting from the CKP sensor, is between 150 to 200Hz, directly proportional to engine cranking RPM when the engine is cranked over.
I have the early engine harness that is separate from the injector harness. I replaced both a while back before my full rebuild. It was cheaper that way and I got them price matched through FICMRepair.
Brown wire with white stripe on the EGR connector (pin D).
The CKP reading you should be getting from the CKP sensor, is between 150 to 200Hz, directly proportional to engine cranking RPM when the engine is cranked over.
I haven't had much time and extra hands to do what I need to. but I did mess around with it. Something was funky with the scanner I was using the first time. I can get the truck to start and if I apply throttle that IS NOT steady(basically flooring and letting off the throttle) it will stay running. But the second that I give a constant throttle or if I let off of the throttle it will die unless I floor it and start oscillating the throttle again. It's the oddest thing. With a different scanner I was showing cranking RPM of 200-300 rpm. I have a fast late model starter. the battery voltage was 12 volts when I started and the truck cranked when the voltage was at 10.8. I may have to replace the batteries but they were new before this escapade and I am sure that they aren't a contributing factor to the initial problem. Still have BOTH CMP and CKP "circuit open" codes so I will respond back when I have completed firstly the VREF and then CMP/CKP signal tests. It's just very odd to me that the engine running is tied to what kind of throttle position it has. And furthermore if the CKP and CMP circuits were indeed actually open and not closed circuits I am 100% sure the truck wouldn't start at all. So at very least it's an intermittent problem and I have all new parts with new connections, and I have quintuple checked those connections. But it acts as if that is a culprit, bad connection or? I'm at a loss. Maybe the tests will give me insight once I have time to do them. I've been looking at electrical diagrams for the past six months trying to find something I'm missing.
And thank you for saving me the trouble on which pin on the EGR. If I look at AllData much more I feel my brain may melt.