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Replacing Main Engine Wiring Harness

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Old Sep 12, 2019 | 04:42 AM
  #1  
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Replacing Main Engine Wiring Harness

Hi,

Im in for a new harness and am considering doing the job myself. Not a formed mechanic but do have a mechanical inclination all though electrical has never been my strong point.

How hard of a job is it? How many hours should it take considering the learning curve?

Thanks for any advice.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2019 | 07:50 AM
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I did mine some years ago. It’s pricey, too. Mine came from Mexico if my memory is correct. You would need to take the new harness and work with it in a warm/hot atmosphere and start forming the various pigtails in the same orientation as the old harness. The new harness will be very stiff. My buddy did his after I did and found a much better price, so shop around. Some of these internet Ford dealerships can offer good pricing, so don’t think they will always be high.
A new harness may resolve some issues you might be experiencing.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2019 | 08:06 AM
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Thanks. Already purchased from RiffRaff.

Do you have a background in mechanics? How long it take you?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2019 | 01:18 PM
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It has been a long time and I can be **** sometimes, so I would say it’s easily done over a weekend with numerous breaks depending on the which football games are on the tube.
I don’t recall the harness having duplicate connectors such that you would plug one into the incorrect sensor. The wiring along with the connector pretty much determines where it goes. As I mentioned earlier you might have to wrestle with some legs of the harness to properly route it.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2019 | 03:00 PM
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Thanks. Did you recall removing transmission cooler, radiator, ac compressor?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2019 | 03:06 PM
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I don't think you have to remove the raditor, our harness splits right at the side of the motor. I almost bought a brand new one but ended up patching all my old ****ty wires. You will have to take apart the top of the engine and have to route down over the front of it too - helps to have tiny hands. Pay close attention to where the wires are routed - get them right back where they belong.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2019 | 03:34 PM
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I don't think you should need to remove any major components. Maybe the CAC tubes and/or the turbo spider will make things easier but it should be pretty easy and straight forward, just a little tedious. I never replaced one but I have pulled a couple of engines and I pulled the harnesses off before pulling the engine. There are two connectors that are the same, the one for the EBPV and the one for the IPR, their positions being what they are you would be hard pressed to connect them wrong, otherwise they are all different and you can't go wrong (except for the UVCH's but that shouldn't be a problem). At its thickest part the harness is kind of thick and stiff and you might need to pull a bracket of some sort to get it woven into place.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2024 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
I don't think you should need to remove any major components. Maybe the CAC tubes and/or the turbo spider will make things easier but it should be pretty easy and straight forward, just a little tedious. I never replaced one but I have pulled a couple of engines and I pulled the harnesses off before pulling the engine. There are two connectors that are the same, the one for the EBPV and the one for the IPR, their positions being what they are you would be hard pressed to connect them wrong, otherwise they are all different and you can't go wrong (except for the UVCH's but that shouldn't be a problem). At its thickest part the harness is kind of thick and stiff and you might need to pull a bracket of some sort to get it woven into place.
I changed mine on my 2017 limited it took prob 8 hours did half went out on boat did the other half the next day remove splash guards in wheel wells, battery trays, air filter housing, grill, air cooler and tubing so you can get to everything you also have to get to your bcm in cab so remove glove box so you can route wires into cab. Everthing is plug and play even all the wire holder plug right into factory frame holes you will not be able to even tell it was ever replaced if you take your time.
 
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