4r100 with endless fluid
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 95
Likes: 6
4r100 with endless fluid
Short version: My tranny is leaking fluid and seems low - but dipstick always reads slightly past full no matter how many ways and times I check it.
Long: About 2 weeks after installing my John Woods valve body, my 4r100 started belching up a lil tranny fluid. I spilled maybe 1/2 a quart of what had been in there since the rebuild, but the dipstick said it was a lil past full so I left it as is. Well, it's still belching up some oil that looks like its coming from where the dipstick tube meets the lil 6" tube that comes out of the pan. It's been leaking every single day, and not a small amount. I wouldn't be surprised if it's lost 6 quarts by now.
Shifting has been getting worse and now it's throwing SES light and throwing codes for 1-2 and 2-3 shift errors and incorrect ratio for gear #2
I've tried every permutation of checking the tranny oil level- and no matter what it always reads slightly above the full at hot mark.... What gives?
Long: About 2 weeks after installing my John Woods valve body, my 4r100 started belching up a lil tranny fluid. I spilled maybe 1/2 a quart of what had been in there since the rebuild, but the dipstick said it was a lil past full so I left it as is. Well, it's still belching up some oil that looks like its coming from where the dipstick tube meets the lil 6" tube that comes out of the pan. It's been leaking every single day, and not a small amount. I wouldn't be surprised if it's lost 6 quarts by now.
Shifting has been getting worse and now it's throwing SES light and throwing codes for 1-2 and 2-3 shift errors and incorrect ratio for gear #2
I've tried every permutation of checking the tranny oil level- and no matter what it always reads slightly above the full at hot mark.... What gives?
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 95
Likes: 6
Before I did the valve body swap (which was just a swap, no other work was done), I had the tranny rebuilt in mexico a couple months before this.
During the valve body swap - I didn't do anything besides swapping the entire valve body - did I have access to a check valve that I could have screwed up? I thought the valves were on the other side of the plate I didn't remove (items 190-192). I saw a thread mentioning that there were feed screws and check valves in just the valve body itself (that I did swap) - I'm wondering if maybe the unit I got had something missing or loose.
Thanks for your help on this - I'm totally lost and at my wits end with this tranny.
During the valve body swap - I didn't do anything besides swapping the entire valve body - did I have access to a check valve that I could have screwed up? I thought the valves were on the other side of the plate I didn't remove (items 190-192). I saw a thread mentioning that there were feed screws and check valves in just the valve body itself (that I did swap) - I'm wondering if maybe the unit I got had something missing or loose.
Thanks for your help on this - I'm totally lost and at my wits end with this tranny.
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 299
Likes: 114
From: Nevada
That diagram scares the poop out of me! Auto trans is one thing I have never had the cojones to tackle. Maybe retirement will give me the time to learn it.....
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 95
Likes: 6
@FordTruckNoob Based on the research I've been doing - it looks like there are a ton of check b alls in the tranny, except I don't see any in the part of the valve body that I replaced. Considering the tranny was recently rebuilt - it's possible that any one of those check b alls was not reinstalled properly (or missing altogether)
Were there supposed to be any check b alls that I can access during a normal valve body swap? To me it looks like all of the check valve b alls are in the other half of the valve assembly that isn't touched, or behind the main separator plate.
The idea that a check ball not being installed makes sense in that fluid that should be up in the tranny is draining down and always showing a high fluid level - that's an great catch.
@Mark Kovalsky is there any way for me to get an idea of which check ball could be the culprit? If it's behind that main plate, I don't see how I can fix this without pulling the tranny.
Were there supposed to be any check b alls that I can access during a normal valve body swap? To me it looks like all of the check valve b alls are in the other half of the valve assembly that isn't touched, or behind the main separator plate.
The idea that a check ball not being installed makes sense in that fluid that should be up in the tranny is draining down and always showing a high fluid level - that's an great catch.
@Mark Kovalsky is there any way for me to get an idea of which check ball could be the culprit? If it's behind that main plate, I don't see how I can fix this without pulling the tranny.
Trending Topics
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,739
Likes: 2,669
From: SE Florida
That diagram doesn't show the pump. As I recall the torque converter drainback valve is in the pump body, not the valve body. And yes, you have the remove the trans to get the pump body out.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 95
Likes: 6
FordTruckNoob's theory was that it was a check ball in the lower half of the transmission, not the TC drainback valve. My transmission knowledge and nomenclature are off so not sure what to call it, but everything connected to the valve body and the 8+ check ball(s) in that was what I believe he was referring to.
Do my symptoms seem more like a torque converter drainback valve failure? I believe I've seen a diagnostic test to see if the TC drainback valve is failing. I can try doing that this weekend to see if I can narrow it down. Thank you all for your help!
Do my symptoms seem more like a torque converter drainback valve failure? I believe I've seen a diagnostic test to see if the TC drainback valve is failing. I can try doing that this weekend to see if I can narrow it down. Thank you all for your help!
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,739
Likes: 2,669
From: SE Florida
Here is how to tell if the drainback valve is leaking.
Drive the truck to get the trans up to at least 150°F. Park on a level surface. Check the fluid level with the engine idling and the trans in park. Shut the engine off and let it sit at least 8 hours. Check the fluid level BEFORE starting the engine. If it shows WAY overfilled, the torque converter has drained into the pan due to a leaking check valve.
I don't know of any check ball in the pan that could cause this.
Drive the truck to get the trans up to at least 150°F. Park on a level surface. Check the fluid level with the engine idling and the trans in park. Shut the engine off and let it sit at least 8 hours. Check the fluid level BEFORE starting the engine. If it shows WAY overfilled, the torque converter has drained into the pan due to a leaking check valve.
I don't know of any check ball in the pan that could cause this.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 13,135
Likes: 4,732
From: Henderson, NV
@FordTruckNoob Based on the research I've been doing - it looks like there are a ton of check b alls in the tranny, except I don't see any in the part of the valve body that I replaced. Considering the tranny was recently rebuilt - it's possible that any one of those check b alls was not reinstalled properly (or missing altogether)
Were there supposed to be any check b alls that I can access during a normal valve body swap? To me it looks like all of the check valve b alls are in the other half of the valve assembly that isn't touched, or behind the main separator plate.
The idea that a check ball not being installed makes sense in that fluid that should be up in the tranny is draining down and always showing a high fluid level - that's an great catch.
@Mark Kovalsky is there any way for me to get an idea of which check ball could be the culprit? If it's behind that main plate, I don't see how I can fix this without pulling the tranny.
Were there supposed to be any check b alls that I can access during a normal valve body swap? To me it looks like all of the check valve b alls are in the other half of the valve assembly that isn't touched, or behind the main separator plate.
The idea that a check ball not being installed makes sense in that fluid that should be up in the tranny is draining down and always showing a high fluid level - that's an great catch.
@Mark Kovalsky is there any way for me to get an idea of which check ball could be the culprit? If it's behind that main plate, I don't see how I can fix this without pulling the tranny.
As for the rebuild in Mexico, watch the videos in this thread. It will give you an idea of how easy it is to screw things up when putting one of these transmissions back together.
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 95
Likes: 6
My tranmission dipstick tube was bent to hell and not properly seating into the transmission. I ended up bending it so it aligns properly and seats. I think that's related to my off-base fluid readings.
However it still drives like total crap. Takes many tries and a long time to shift into D or R, and shift flares all over the place and it's throwing codes like a ****.
I had the transmission rebuilt with all new parts a thousand miles ago, new billet TC, new valve body from J Woods, and way too much of my time.
At this point I want to just move forward with my life. Do you guys think I should take it to a shop and let them figure it out with my existing tranny, or just throw the whole thing away and put another one in there? It looks like the only tranny I could afford (dieselsite) is Out-of-stock indefinitely, so I'm looking at this one on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/28327137284...oAAOSwWnFV8dWq
What do you guys think? I don't tow anything, 160/0 injectors, and I don't plan on owning it for more than another year. What would you guys recommend?
However it still drives like total crap. Takes many tries and a long time to shift into D or R, and shift flares all over the place and it's throwing codes like a ****.
I had the transmission rebuilt with all new parts a thousand miles ago, new billet TC, new valve body from J Woods, and way too much of my time.
At this point I want to just move forward with my life. Do you guys think I should take it to a shop and let them figure it out with my existing tranny, or just throw the whole thing away and put another one in there? It looks like the only tranny I could afford (dieselsite) is Out-of-stock indefinitely, so I'm looking at this one on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/28327137284...oAAOSwWnFV8dWq
What do you guys think? I don't tow anything, 160/0 injectors, and I don't plan on owning it for more than another year. What would you guys recommend?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,278
Likes: 1,658
From: Las Cruces New Mexico
My tranmission dipstick tube was bent to hell and not properly seating into the transmission. I ended up bending it so it aligns properly and seats. I think that's related to my off-base fluid readings.
However it still drives like total crap. Takes many tries and a long time to shift into D or R, and shift flares all over the place and it's throwing codes like a ****.
I had the transmission rebuilt with all new parts a thousand miles ago, new billet TC, new valve body from J Woods, and way too much of my time.
At this point I want to just move forward with my life. Do you guys think I should take it to a shop and let them figure it out with my existing tranny, or just throw the whole thing away and put another one in there? It looks like the only tranny I could afford (dieselsite) is Out-of-stock indefinitely, so I'm looking at this one on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/28327137284...oAAOSwWnFV8dWq
What do you guys think? I don't tow anything, 160/0 injectors, and I don't plan on owning it for more than another year. What would you guys recommend?
However it still drives like total crap. Takes many tries and a long time to shift into D or R, and shift flares all over the place and it's throwing codes like a ****.
I had the transmission rebuilt with all new parts a thousand miles ago, new billet TC, new valve body from J Woods, and way too much of my time.
At this point I want to just move forward with my life. Do you guys think I should take it to a shop and let them figure it out with my existing tranny, or just throw the whole thing away and put another one in there? It looks like the only tranny I could afford (dieselsite) is Out-of-stock indefinitely, so I'm looking at this one on ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/28327137284...oAAOSwWnFV8dWq
What do you guys think? I don't tow anything, 160/0 injectors, and I don't plan on owning it for more than another year. What would you guys recommend?
Also what are the codes could be something simple
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 2,907
Likes: 788
From: Kinnula,Finland
So you had another rebuild after mexican build?
Have you tried different tunes etc.?
Go with another tranny since you have the welded bellhousing and current one just dont let itself to be rebuilded..?
Have you tried different tunes etc.?
Go with another tranny since you have the welded bellhousing and current one just dont let itself to be rebuilded..?
Thread Starter
|
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 95
Likes: 6
No it hasn't been rebuilt again - I just haven't really driven it much since the rebuild.
I haven't tried getting new tunes - but my tranny is also throwing a bunch of codes so I suspect that there's more going on than just a tuning issue for shifts. I'll try installing my hydra unit and see what effect that has.
With how the bellhousing is cracked (it's been rewelded very well), I don't think it impacts it's performance. The issues I have seem more likely to be an issue with the rebuild.
If I get a "new" tranny, I also have to pay for a core since nobody will accept mine as it is.
So any rebuilt unit will cost $1000 core charge + $3000 min for the tranny. The cost for pulling and reinstalling the tranny will be the same for fixing vs installing a rebuilt unit.
If I could get it fixed locally for less than $4k that would be great... but I don't know if I can trust anyone locally to know how to actually fix this issue - and I don't want to end up exactly where I already am. I'll check out autozone's offerings and see what's up
I haven't tried getting new tunes - but my tranny is also throwing a bunch of codes so I suspect that there's more going on than just a tuning issue for shifts. I'll try installing my hydra unit and see what effect that has.
With how the bellhousing is cracked (it's been rewelded very well), I don't think it impacts it's performance. The issues I have seem more likely to be an issue with the rebuild.
If I get a "new" tranny, I also have to pay for a core since nobody will accept mine as it is.
So any rebuilt unit will cost $1000 core charge + $3000 min for the tranny. The cost for pulling and reinstalling the tranny will be the same for fixing vs installing a rebuilt unit.
If I could get it fixed locally for less than $4k that would be great... but I don't know if I can trust anyone locally to know how to actually fix this issue - and I don't want to end up exactly where I already am. I'll check out autozone's offerings and see what's up
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post