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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 4,673
Likes: 532
From: Houston, Texas
OK, so keeping the degas cap off should keep me safe. And, if I remove the thermostat, I shouldn't have to get it real hot anyway. I'm thinking get it pretty warm once to get the oil thinned and then drain it. After that, just follow Jack's advice with chemicals and Cascade without getting it so hot.
Rain showed up today. and I got to order the parts anyway, so it'll be a week or so until I get to this. Thanks, I got a plan now.
Rain showed up today. and I got to order the parts anyway, so it'll be a week or so until I get to this. Thanks, I got a plan now.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 17,838
Likes: 3,143
From: Jersey Shore
Hey, Mark. I totally understand, and I'd be concerned too. But if that was the path taken, after flushing and the oil cooler changed, I'd replace the oil immediately and after something like 50-100 miles. Both could be Dino to get the oil flushed - or diluted. If the oil was showing coolant contamination, I might rethink that. No perfect answer.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,931
Likes: 3,653
I hear you. No doubt fluid isn't going to flow from low pressure to high pressure. Even if a little contamination happens if pressure profiles go through "transients" (I have no idea if it is likely or not), then the oil should still have some degree of protection (TAN, TBN).
Certain things just make me hesitate on posting, even though I might try it on my own truck. One example - who knows what the base oil pressure is on an internet persons truck. The regulator may be stuck or maybe something else might cause it to be low. Coolant passageways plugged up might cause a little more localized back pressure. I know of a guy that screwed up a FICM because of carelessness when checking voltage "at the screws". I quit recommending that method (also because smartphone scan tools are too convenient and cheap!).
Again - I am only being conservative ....maybe/probably overly so.
As stated above - like so many things - probably no completely right or wrong answer.
Certain things just make me hesitate on posting, even though I might try it on my own truck. One example - who knows what the base oil pressure is on an internet persons truck. The regulator may be stuck or maybe something else might cause it to be low. Coolant passageways plugged up might cause a little more localized back pressure. I know of a guy that screwed up a FICM because of carelessness when checking voltage "at the screws". I quit recommending that method (also because smartphone scan tools are too convenient and cheap!).
Again - I am only being conservative ....maybe/probably overly so.
As stated above - like so many things - probably no completely right or wrong answer.
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