AC overhaul question
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 873
AC overhaul question
Hi all,
I posted on the .org as well for the most help/advice I can get.
I plan to redo the entire AC system with OEM components next month. I have access to a friend's shop AC machine that evacuates, pulls vacuum, injects oil in the system etc and I'll evacuate the system there. Once I R&R the components at home, I will have pressure tested the system and pulled a vacuum to make sure the system is ready to go and drive to his shop for charging. I have the oil and R134 quantities needed off the under hood sticker.
The R&R of components is straight forward, but I had one question about the pump.
Does the pump itself come with some oil to avoid dry startup during the initial recharge or is it advisable to add some to the pump itself prior to the machine auto injecting the metered amount?
The way the pump sits on the block, I would assume any oil in the pump would leak out while installing the new lines.
I have never done extensive AC work, which is why I ask.
Thanks for the help
Joe
I posted on the .org as well for the most help/advice I can get.
I plan to redo the entire AC system with OEM components next month. I have access to a friend's shop AC machine that evacuates, pulls vacuum, injects oil in the system etc and I'll evacuate the system there. Once I R&R the components at home, I will have pressure tested the system and pulled a vacuum to make sure the system is ready to go and drive to his shop for charging. I have the oil and R134 quantities needed off the under hood sticker.
The R&R of components is straight forward, but I had one question about the pump.
Does the pump itself come with some oil to avoid dry startup during the initial recharge or is it advisable to add some to the pump itself prior to the machine auto injecting the metered amount?
The way the pump sits on the block, I would assume any oil in the pump would leak out while installing the new lines.
I have never done extensive AC work, which is why I ask.
Thanks for the help
Joe
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Some places ship the pump with oil and have you drain it out at install and put in fresh.
PAG oil is very hydroscopic and that is why they want you to use oil from a fresh unopened can.
Oil that has been in contact with air can be recovered if you place it under a vacuum
to boil the water out.
I will have to look tonight but somewhere I have a PDF that lists how much oil each part of the system
needs when replaces with a fresh new/cleaned out component.
PAG oil is very hydroscopic and that is why they want you to use oil from a fresh unopened can.
Oil that has been in contact with air can be recovered if you place it under a vacuum
to boil the water out.
I will have to look tonight but somewhere I have a PDF that lists how much oil each part of the system
needs when replaces with a fresh new/cleaned out component.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 873
Thanks Sean.
I am going to get more info on the machine my friend has in his shop. The machine is rarely used since the fleet he maintains rarely has any ac issues, so needless to say he is not very familiar with it.
Once I do some research, I think my questions will be somewhat answered regarding the system oil injection.
My main concern is the addition of oil into a completely dry system and possibly ruining the pump etc.
Joe
I am going to get more info on the machine my friend has in his shop. The machine is rarely used since the fleet he maintains rarely has any ac issues, so needless to say he is not very familiar with it.
Once I do some research, I think my questions will be somewhat answered regarding the system oil injection.
My main concern is the addition of oil into a completely dry system and possibly ruining the pump etc.
Joe
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Well let me know when your ready. The info I have gives the amounts of oil for each part
of the system when they are new or have been cleaned of the oil. I also have access to
all the books for your year truck.
of the system when they are new or have been cleaned of the oil. I also have access to
all the books for your year truck.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
I forgot to mention I think that I pulled all my
air conditioning out when I remove the
engine. I will be replacing the compressor, filter/drier
and orifice tube. Along with completely flushing the
system. I have been told that the condenser is very
difficult to get a good flush on but I didn’t blow up a
compressor so it’s not due to a failure I’m just doing
it because I’m in there and it’s easy to get out.
air conditioning out when I remove the
engine. I will be replacing the compressor, filter/drier
and orifice tube. Along with completely flushing the
system. I have been told that the condenser is very
difficult to get a good flush on but I didn’t blow up a
compressor so it’s not due to a failure I’m just doing
it because I’m in there and it’s easy to get out.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,652
Likes: 79
From: Mooresville, NC
Don't forget to replace ALL the orings, replace the high and low side schrader valves (source of more leaks than you can imagine) and flush........run the leak test overnight if you can.........
It's easier to install the compressor with the manifold (suction and discharge lines) attached.
There are 3 bolts total and you must install one bolt in the compressor before negotiating it into its mounting location
Nothing will leak if done this way.
It's best to manually fill the compressor (before installation) with oil as the automatic machines don't get enough PAG down to the compressor fast enough to protect it on start up, initial running time --- which can do damage (ie. failure to prime))
It's easier to install the compressor with the manifold (suction and discharge lines) attached.
There are 3 bolts total and you must install one bolt in the compressor before negotiating it into its mounting location
Nothing will leak if done this way.
It's best to manually fill the compressor (before installation) with oil as the automatic machines don't get enough PAG down to the compressor fast enough to protect it on start up, initial running time --- which can do damage (ie. failure to prime))
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Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 873
Don't forget to replace ALL the orings, replace the high and low side schrader valves (source of more leaks than you can imagine) and flush........run the leak test overnight if you can.........
It's easier to install the compressor with the manifold (suction and discharge lines) attached.
There are 3 bolts total and you must install one bolt in the compressor before negotiating it into its mounting location
Nothing will leak if done this way.
It's best to manually fill the compressor (before installation) with oil as the automatic machines don't get enough PAG down to the compressor fast enough to protect it on start up, initial running time --- which can do damage (ie. failure to prime))
It's easier to install the compressor with the manifold (suction and discharge lines) attached.
There are 3 bolts total and you must install one bolt in the compressor before negotiating it into its mounting location
Nothing will leak if done this way.
It's best to manually fill the compressor (before installation) with oil as the automatic machines don't get enough PAG down to the compressor fast enough to protect it on start up, initial running time --- which can do damage (ie. failure to prime))
Excellent advice. I am replacing EVERY component in the system with new and have a huge assortment of ac o-rings if needed.......just to start over after 17 years of service.
I planned on installing the pump with the lines in place as you suggested, but now it is going down that way for certain.
On the to do list is drain the 7oz that the pump supposedly comes charged with (according to the enclosed literature) and replace with super cool products synthetic PAG 46, and distribute the rest within the new condenser, evaporator etc. What are your thoughts on this?
If I can truly get 7oz into the pump, that would make me happy. I will definitely measure the amount I can remove from the pump and replace with exact. I'd rather have the pump fully wet than anything else.
Thank you
Joe
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,609
Likes: 873
I will.
One thing I did notice is the new low pressure ac hose design has changed. I am hoping I got the correct one based on VIN and triple checking.
The current low pressure hose that goes tot he ac drier currently routes in front of the CAC tube (right side) and is in the way. The new one appears to route behind it, and as I mentioned, I triple checked with the dealer using my VIN but they could be wrong as well.
I looked at it and it is contorted in such a way that it "should" sneak behind the CAC tube and work. I will soon find out in a few weeks when I tear into it.
I will surely save all part numbers for everyone.
Thanks
Joe
One thing I did notice is the new low pressure ac hose design has changed. I am hoping I got the correct one based on VIN and triple checking.
The current low pressure hose that goes tot he ac drier currently routes in front of the CAC tube (right side) and is in the way. The new one appears to route behind it, and as I mentioned, I triple checked with the dealer using my VIN but they could be wrong as well.
I looked at it and it is contorted in such a way that it "should" sneak behind the CAC tube and work. I will soon find out in a few weeks when I tear into it.
I will surely save all part numbers for everyone.
Thanks
Joe
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 10,120
Likes: 652
From: NH
On the topic of A/C...
My 2005 F-350 had A/C that "worked" but didn't blower very cold. I could hear the compressor cycling on / off frequently, so I assumed low refrigerant. I added some using the parts store can with gauge and hose. Not scientific but I didn't go overboard, and now the A/C does blow pretty cold. However, there is a distinct difference in performance between the Max AC and standard AC modes. Max AC is the only setting where the AC is truly ice cold. My understanding of AC mode vs Max AC mode is simply that Max AC recirculates the air. Is that correct? Why does Max AC work so much better? Is that normal?
My 2005 F-350 had A/C that "worked" but didn't blower very cold. I could hear the compressor cycling on / off frequently, so I assumed low refrigerant. I added some using the parts store can with gauge and hose. Not scientific but I didn't go overboard, and now the A/C does blow pretty cold. However, there is a distinct difference in performance between the Max AC and standard AC modes. Max AC is the only setting where the AC is truly ice cold. My understanding of AC mode vs Max AC mode is simply that Max AC recirculates the air. Is that correct? Why does Max AC work so much better? Is that normal?