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My 2005 F-350 had A/C that "worked" but didn't blower very cold. I could hear the compressor cycling on / off frequently, so I assumed low refrigerant. I added some using the parts store can with gauge and hose. Not scientific but I didn't go overboard, and now the A/C does blow pretty cold. However, there is a distinct difference in performance between the Max AC and standard AC modes. Max AC is the only setting where the AC is truly ice cold. My understanding of AC mode vs Max AC mode is simply that Max AC recirculates the air. Is that correct? Why does Max AC work so much better? Is that normal?
Yes that is correct. Plus it also turns off the hot water that flows through the heater core during max ac.
Originally Posted by joe blow
I will.
One thing I did notice is the new low pressure ac hose design has changed. I am hoping I got the correct one based on VIN and triple checking.
The current low pressure hose that goes tot he ac drier currently routes in front of the CAC tube (right side) and is in the way. The new one appears to route behind it, and as I mentioned, I triple checked with the dealer using my VIN but they could be wrong as well.
I looked at it and it is contorted in such a way that it "should" sneak behind the CAC tube and work. I will soon find out in a few weeks when I tear into it.
I will surely save all part numbers for everyone.
Thanks
Joe
Could it be that they mixed it up with the dual alternator system?
I know that it has some strange bends to get around the second
alternator. It could also be a work around so they no longer have
to stock 2 parts. One for dual and one for single.
If it has that valve, not all the trucks do - mine did not come with one. Mine worked better after I added a shut-off valve, as Sean noted.
The other factor in recirculating is that the coil does not have to dehumidify the outside air coming in; the cab air is already being dehumidified, so the cold energy (lack of thermal energy) goes to the air, not to condense the water vapor.
What I find interesting on my truck (it is an XLT with manual climate control) is that there is no separate "recirculating" button. It appears the only way to recirculate the cabin air is to select Max AC. That's fine, but sometimes you want to just block out a cloud of dust or some bad odors, even in the winter when you don't want AC.
What you say makes sense that the system can spend less effort removing humidity and more on cooling. I'll check to see if I have a water valve. Vacuum operated I assume?
Most vehicles will not engage the compressor unless defrost is selected, or the A/C setting is chosen. Auto climate control is different, but even those have overrides.
Yes that is correct. Plus it also turns off the hot water that flows through the heater core during max ac.
Could it be that they mixed it up with the dual alternator system?
I know that it has some strange bends to get around the second
alternator. It could also be a work around so they no longer have
to stock 2 parts. One for dual and one for single.
I looked at some images of the dual setup and that might explain the hose I received. It might be an advantage, since that hose is in the way a majority of the time I have to stick my hand down there.
I actually prefer the new hose 100% (if it works for my application)
One thing I did notice is the new low pressure ac hose design has changed. I am hoping I got the correct one based on VIN and triple checking.
The current low pressure hose that goes tot he ac drier currently routes in front of the CAC tube (right side) and is in the way. The new one appears to route behind it, and as I mentioned, I triple checked with the dealer using my VIN but they could be wrong as well.
I looked at it and it is contorted in such a way that it "should" sneak behind the CAC tube and work. I will soon find out in a few weeks when I tear into it.
I will surely save all part numbers for everyone.
Thanks
Joe
Is this the part number you came up with: JU2Z-19D734B? I, too, was wondering about how to keep the oil in the compressor without tipping it out during install without having to remove half the system--LOL.
I'm preparing to change my compressor because the clutch gap is way out of spec and it's not worth the $$$ to just change the clutch since it's the OEM original. It still gets cold when it stays engaged, it's just tired at 316K.
I installed everything new as mentioned and the compressor went in with both high and low pressure lines attached. The way the compressor sits, you may get away with not much oil spilling out. If you do lose some, this is a great resource to help you decipher and approximate how much PAG 46 oil needs to be added to the system based on component r&r. The system (mine) requires 9oz total, and the chart gives you an idea how much oil is lost in each component that is swapped.
I saw that one but went to Autonation WBL and they have the number I posted but they are the same in appearance. One can really get off in the weeds with Rockauto sometimes, but I use them a lot and haven't gone wrong yet. I'm having an issue about oil in the compressor, but I started my own thread if you'd care to comment.
I triple checked the part numbers using my VIN at a few dealerships. The only problem I ran into was both binary (low/high) switches were wrong for some reason.
I triple checked the part numbers using my VIN at a few dealerships. The only problem I ran into was both binary (low/high) switches were wrong for some reason.
Aside from that, all OEM components were on point
Good to know, thanks, and thanks for commenting.
BTW--I tried your link, but it is asking for a password, etc.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.