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I eventually did on advanced autos website and it brings up the same ECM that Oreillys sold me.
I see where the part numbers are the same. All I can say is those are not ford numbers. . Maybe someone can chime in and confirm you got the correct one.
The numbers on the left of the one you got do not match the numbers on the old one
I see where the part numbers are the same. All I can say is those are not ford numbers. . Maybe someone can chime in and confirm you got the correct one.
The numbers on the left of the one you got do not match the numbers on the old one
I'll probably return the computer and keep my fingers crossed that the original is still good. Something tells me the weird voltage from the TPS terminal is the issue with all this. Hate to keep throwing parts at it though too.
Finally, she fired up! Spent last night and a good portion of today inspecting all the wiring for more mice damage and stumbled across a ground in the wire loom on the drives side inner fender that was completely chewed through. Fixed the connection and she took off. Only let run for about 5 sec before noticing the oil pressure gauge was not moving, so shut it off. Hopefully, it is just the oil pressure switch and I didn't screw up the shaft when installing the new distributor.
You may have disconnected the plug to the oil pressure sending unit in your search for bad wiring. You should check that out and if it is still connected it can be replaced easily and they are cheap. Glad you turned it off. You did the safe and right thing.
I was hoping to not come back here for a while, but here I am with another issue. The final thing needed after all this mess is to set the timing to 10* BTC (intial set was 0). I let the engine come up to normal operating temps, shut it off, pulled the spout, restarted and set the timing to 10* BTC. After the timing was set, I shut the engine off and connected the spout. Went to fire it back up and she took a lot of cranking while feathering the throttle to get running, but she finally did. Shut the engine off and disconnect the spout to see if it starts better and it fired right up.
Any ideas as to why the hard start with the spout connected?
Back to needing a gauge again, usually having to feather/pump the throttle, means flooded, and when you mash throttle it cuts/stops the injector pulses, in a quick/dirty, explanation, put gauge on it, if it cant/wont run, turn key to on a few times, to get the pump to prime, then turn key off and watch what pressure does, to see if you may have leaking injector/s.
Back to needing a gauge again, usually having to feather/pump the throttle, means flooded, and when you mash throttle it cuts/stops the injector pulses, in a quick/dirty, explanation, put gauge on it, if it cant/wont run, turn key to on a few times, to get the pump to prime, then turn key off and watch what pressure does, to see if you may have leaking injector/s.
I can't stand when an OP leaves a post hanging, so I better follow up. For whatever reason it has now been starting fine with the spout connected. Maybe sticky injectors from sitting for 15 years; I don't know. But, she now runs, and runs good 🙂
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