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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Crank no start

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Old May 27, 2021 | 05:31 PM
  #31  
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VREF is 5 VDC. If you are getting 10 VDC the computer is toast. FYI...VREF is generated inside the computer (PCM).
 
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Old May 27, 2021 | 06:41 PM
  #32  
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Digging around trying to trace wire's, I noticed a small nest under the plenum. Dug the nest out and noticed a wire going to number 2 injector was chewed on, so decided to pull the plenum for a better look. Number 2 injector has an exposed wire, and number 3 injector has two exposed wires that are crossed.

Slowly, very slowly this truck will run once again...I hope.


 
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Old May 28, 2021 | 04:59 PM
  #33  
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Replace the 90* for PCV, before putting upper back on, that crack is a constant vacuum leak

 
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Old May 29, 2021 | 05:18 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by torq'ta 5 8
Replace the 90* for PCV, before putting upper back on, that crack is a constant vacuum leak
No crack, just partially pulled out of the valve cover. Thanks for pointing it out though as I could've missed it.
 
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Old May 29, 2021 | 05:24 PM
  #35  
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So I've run into another issue. The nylon fuel line that connects the fuel rails (front of engine) had a small pinhole from old age or mice chewing on it. I pulled the old hose off and put a new nylon hose on, which took forever and was a pain. Before putting everything back together I cycled the fuel pump to check for leaks, and both ends of the line are leaking at the barb fittings.

Does this have to be a nylon line or can I get a fuel hose and clamp it? I would hate to have to buy a new fuel rail; if they even sell them.

 
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Old May 31, 2021 | 01:02 PM
  #36  
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Alright, got the fuel line fixed and the injector pig tails taken care of. Still no injector pulse, so decided to buy a new ECM, which I just picked up from the parts store. The guy at Oriellys said the ECM may or may not be programmed - it's more or less a crapshoot. Is this true?

It is my understanding that these can not simply be programmed or flashed at a dealer because the program is already burned into a chip from the factory, hence the reason I provided the numbers from my old ECM.
 
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Old May 31, 2021 | 01:49 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Bvretn1
Alright, got the fuel line fixed and the injector pig tails taken care of. Still no injector pulse, so decided to buy a new ECM, which I just picked up from the parts store. The guy at Oriellys said the ECM may or may not be programmed - it's more or less a crapshoot. Is this true?

It is my understanding that these can not simply be programmed or flashed at a dealer because the program is already burned into a chip from the factory, hence the reason I provided the numbers from my old ECM.
Ok, installed the new ECM and still no injector pulse. Guess the question now is, is the new ECM not programmed liked the guy said could happen or is my original ECM good. How would I know if the new ECM is/isn't programmed?
 
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Old May 31, 2021 | 02:12 PM
  #38  
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They are already programmed for the specific model and configuration. At least the Cordone units are. Are the numbers on the new one the same as your old one?
 
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Old May 31, 2021 | 02:51 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by sandymane
They are already programmed for the specific model and configuration. At least the Cordone units are. Are the numbers on the new one the same as your old one?
The one I picked up is a Cordon. Oriellys entered the orginal ECM number (E8TF-12A650-ANB) in their system, which interchanged to number E9AF-14A624-AA.

The ECM on the right is the original.

 
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Old May 31, 2021 | 03:15 PM
  #40  
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Try the test you did on post 48 and see if you are still getting the 10 volts that you should only have 5 volts on. That may help someone with electrical skills.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...er%20pcm%20emc

The number you posted for the PCM does not show as the correct one on the O'Riley web site.
The one in the link seems to be an exact fit if the transmissions are the same. The PCMs need the correct transmission (auto or manual) to function and you don't want a California one also.
 
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Old May 31, 2021 | 03:19 PM
  #41  
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https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...er%20pcm%20emc

This is the one for the manual transmission
 
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Old May 31, 2021 | 03:26 PM
  #42  
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https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...er%20pcm%20emc This one seems to have the same number as your old one if you are auto trans
 
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Old May 31, 2021 | 03:42 PM
  #43  
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Old May 31, 2021 | 03:54 PM
  #44  
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https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...done+PCM&pos=3

F250 Orileys
 
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Old May 31, 2021 | 04:12 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by sandymane
Try the test you did on post 48 and see if you are still getting the 10 volts that you should only have 5 volts on. That may help someone with electrical skills.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...er%20pcm%20emc

The number you posted for the PCM does not show as the correct one on the O'Riley web site.
The one in the link seems to be an exact fit if the transmissions are the same. The PCMs need the correct transmission (auto or manual) to function and you don't want a California one also.
Checked the TPS again using this step-by-step guide: https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...sensor-tests-2

Test 1 (Testing TP Signal): Negative probe to ground and positive probe to the black wire. I get 7.6v, and this does not change when opening/closing the throttle.

Test 2 (Make sure TPS is getting 5v): Negative probe to ground and positive probe to red wire. I get 12.15v

Test 3 (Make sure the TPS is getting ground): Negative probe to green wire and positive probe to positive battery terminal. I get 4.64v.

According to the guide everything is out of spec, which makes me wonder if the guide is even correct.

Also, where are you seeing that the numbers match on advanced auto parts website?

By the way, thanks for everyone's input.
 
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