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Truck won't start

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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 08:44 PM
  #1  
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From: Tallahassee, Fl.
Truck won't start

'95 F150 5.0 auto
Actually, it will start eventually, although it is taking longer and longer. When its cold, early in the morning, only when I'm in a hurry, I can crank and crank and nothing. No hint of firing off. After almost running the battery down and connecting the charger, it will finally start. After that, its fine all day. Starts right up, runs fine. This morning, wouldn't start, I gave up and took the bike to work. After work, still wouldn't start. I changed the coil (it looked old and the connector was pitted), still nothing. Then, after about 4 hours of searching the forum, Google, fiddling around with connectors, it fires right up. Cut it off, fires right up again. I recently changed the plug wires and cap, otherwise its been 160,000 trouble free miles (mostly). Pulled the codes, don't make much sense. 565, 10, 111. And earlier, I got the code for aux electric fan; there isn't one on this truck. And 20, which is not in the book. Could my computer be going? When they fail, don't they go all at once?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 09:01 PM
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From: southern maryland
you need to be checking for things like fuel spark or any clear wiring issues as far as the codes make sure you are checking them right when it will not start check for fuel and so on try giving it fuel see if it fires dont go looking or replacing until you know what wrong when was the last fuel filter change or tune up
 
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 09:31 PM
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The fuel pumps both whine for a second as usual, fuel squirts out of the valve on the fuel rail (I don't have a gauge), and starting ether doesn't do anything. As far as the code reader, I have the book that came with it and followed the directions step by step. Fuel pump runs when I push the button on the code reader like its supposed to.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 10:40 PM
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check for spark when the no start happens so may still get a spark even if spark is an issue but if their is no spark then its a start does the truck crank fast at all seem like it could be flooded and you keep your foot of the pedal when cranking right what kind of scan tool are you using
 
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 03:56 PM
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Picked up a fuel pressure test gauge, has a steady 30 lbs front tank or back when ignition on or truck running, goes to 40 with the fuel pressure regulator disconnected. After re-connecting the regulator and shutting it off, it creeps up to 40 after a while. No fuel leaking out of the regulator vacuum port, not having the fuel transfer problem between the tanks (I don't think, the front gauge has never worked).
 
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 04:32 PM
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the truck should start and run on 30 pounds did you check the pressure during a snap but the thing is its an intermittent did you check this at all during the no start if its running fine your test may show its running fine but its real good that you have a fuel gauge
 
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 04:57 PM
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Starts and runs fine.
Just recently, every so often, after sitting all night, more when temps in the 30s or so, it won't start. Just cranks and cranks. Doing fine, now. Just checked the gauge again, its dropped to 22 lbs after sitting for an hour or so. Isn't it supposed to hold pressure indefinitely? I'm suspecting the check valve in the front fuel pump. The front tank, because that's the one I always use. The rear gauge works. After driving for a week or two on the front tank, the level in the rear stays the same, never rises.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 05:17 PM
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From: southern maryland
its normal after sitting for a long period of time lets say all night for pressure to bleed down many people have replaced fuel pumps because of this and many people will not agree with that but i can tell you i have seen many trucks that will do this the ball in the pump is not ment to have a super tight seal as long as fuel is in the rail and line it will start as fast as you turn the key but to make sure let the pressure bleed down to nothing or a low pressure and go start it but you said before spraying starting fluid has no effect
 
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 07:12 PM
  #9  
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From: Tallahassee, Fl.
Since the front gauge doesn't work anyway, I'm going to seize the opportunity and change the front pump and sending unit. I just dropped the tank, just have to get the tool to disconnect the fuel lines.
In my research, I've seen where the fuel will drain back to the tank if left sitting with the nose uphill and the check valve is bad. I back into my drive, our house is lower than the street.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 07:45 PM
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From: southern maryland
sounds good hope you have luck but remember fuel pressure will bleed of eventually but you never know it could be your problem kind of like starting a carbureted engine thats been sitting for 6 months needs to be primed best of luck to you
 
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