Crank no start
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 111
Likes: 13
Alright, now back to my initial issue of no spark. Following this trouble shooting guide (https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...module-tests-2) everything pointed to the ICM being bad. I installed a new distributor yesterday, which came with an ICM, and still no spark.
Testing the ground on the ICM connector, I unplugged it and put the negative probe in the 6th terminal and the positive probe on the positive battery post. I get 12v with the key off, yet 3v when the key is in the on position. I'm no electrician by any means, but I would think there should always be ground at this terminal regardless of the key position. Thinking my ignition cylinder is now bad, I installed a new one; however, key off shows 12v, and key on shows 3v.
I'm lost on what to check now.
Testing the ground on the ICM connector, I unplugged it and put the negative probe in the 6th terminal and the positive probe on the positive battery post. I get 12v with the key off, yet 3v when the key is in the on position. I'm no electrician by any means, but I would think there should always be ground at this terminal regardless of the key position. Thinking my ignition cylinder is now bad, I installed a new one; however, key off shows 12v, and key on shows 3v.
I'm lost on what to check now.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 111
Likes: 13
It won't run unless I pour a little gas in the intake. The fuel pump is running and has pressure at the fuel rails.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 633
From: Houston/Sugar Land
Does it stay running after a little gas in the intake. Starting fluid would be much safer. If it doesn't stay running are you sure you have the proper pressure at the rail via a gauge?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 111
Likes: 13
I've installed a new tank, pump assembly, high pressure pump, and fuel filter. She sat in a field for 15 years, so I'm afraid there are other issues. The seller said it did run 15 years ago.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 111
Likes: 13
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
That's a good sign but still well advised to pull out the computer and open it up for signs of moisture, corrosion, burns and leaking capacitor(s). You also need to verify the fuel pressure. While you have some pressure it may not be enough to start and run the engine.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 111
Likes: 13
Heading to get a gauge now. For hell of it, I checked voltage at the injectors with the key in the on position and I get 12v.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 111
Likes: 13
Oreillys didn't have a pressure gauge kit to rent, so I instead rented the noid lights to test the injectors. Being that the injectors on the right engine bank are easily accessible, these were the only ones tested. All 4 injector terminals failed the test. They illuminate, but don't flash when cranking the engine.
Does this mean the ECM is shot?
Also, can someone with a similar year truck do a quick test for me? I really want to know if you lose voltage on the ICM ground terminal when turning the key to the on position.
Does this mean the ECM is shot?
Also, can someone with a similar year truck do a quick test for me? I really want to know if you lose voltage on the ICM ground terminal when turning the key to the on position.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 5,076
Likes: 865
From: N.W. Alabama
If your distributor wasn't, a new motorcraft, I would check the PIP in it, test #7 is for PIP, see link-->Part 5 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 111
Likes: 13
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 111
Likes: 13
If your distributor wasn't, a new motorcraft, I would check the PIP in it, test #7 is for PIP, see link-->Part 5 -How to Test the Ford Ignition Control Module (Fender Mounted)
I just now decided to check the TPS using this guide https://easyautodiagnostics.com/ford...sensor-tests-2
The first test failed. When opening/closing the throttle, the volts should go up/down depending on the throttle position. This did not happen. The meter read a consistent 8.68v. I then went on to test 2 to see if there is 5v at the power side. I'm getting 10v. Something tells me I shouldn't have 10v when the guide is telling me I should only have 5v at the plug (picture attached)
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,190
Likes: 620
Yeah, ECM looks like it probably shouldn't be a problem. No obvious damage anyway.