Cold start issue or being paranoid
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,343
Likes: 94
Replace the glow plug harness, scan the truck for codes, write them down then clear them.
Start it back up and check codes again. Glow plugs are pretty good at producing a code if they are not working.
If code comes back then test that plug’s resistance. If it is within spec then I suspect the module has issues. I am not aware of tests anyone does on a module.
if you need another module it is best to get it through Ford. Aftermarket ones tend to have reliability problems. And there are counterfeit motorcraft copies at many websites.
Start it back up and check codes again. Glow plugs are pretty good at producing a code if they are not working.
If code comes back then test that plug’s resistance. If it is within spec then I suspect the module has issues. I am not aware of tests anyone does on a module.
if you need another module it is best to get it through Ford. Aftermarket ones tend to have reliability problems. And there are counterfeit motorcraft copies at many websites.
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Tuned
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 332
Likes: 42
I may test the resistance on that bank while I have the harness off, if I can ever get that last broken plug removed.
Believe me I am done with aftermarket if I can help it. I spoke with the parts manager at my local dealership and he for the most part comes pretty close to what I can get the OEM stuff for online. Plus there is no shipping cost or waiting for parts.
Believe me I am done with aftermarket if I can help it. I spoke with the parts manager at my local dealership and he for the most part comes pretty close to what I can get the OEM stuff for online. Plus there is no shipping cost or waiting for parts.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
The last GP harness I replaced came from Advanced Auto, unexpectedly on a weekend only thing available and it was a Dorman. I got it home and after a closer look it’s designed better than the Ford Part (I’m sure it was accidental) the **** on the top is noticeably larger, the body is a little longer, the removal tool fits nicely in the groove and the cups went smoothly in place on install. The plastic may be total crap and fail sooner than OEM but the design looked quite good to me. (Feels weird to talk good about a Dorman part) it also cost much less than I expected.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 4,673
Likes: 531
From: Houston, Texas
I wouldn't completely dis SG as a code reader. I found it did OK on engine codes but not good on transmission codes. Importantly, it doesn't display, IIRC, network errors that prevent scanning of the various networks, so you don't know what you don't know with SG.
So, one thing I would have you check right off is Reference Voltage - Vref. That's just your base network voltage across the trucks various LANs. It should be real close to 5V, and if not, it could mean you have a short or ground on one of your networks, in which case you might get multiple false codes (I've seen that many times here) or, I assume, no codes when there are some (haven't seen that)? Just check to confirm it's good.
If still no codes, I'm thinking that would eliminate a whole lot of possible causes, although I'm not the best one to identify which those are. I'd lean towards fuel issues, since there are so few PIDs on that system.
So, one thing I would have you check right off is Reference Voltage - Vref. That's just your base network voltage across the trucks various LANs. It should be real close to 5V, and if not, it could mean you have a short or ground on one of your networks, in which case you might get multiple false codes (I've seen that many times here) or, I assume, no codes when there are some (haven't seen that)? Just check to confirm it's good.
If still no codes, I'm thinking that would eliminate a whole lot of possible causes, although I'm not the best one to identify which those are. I'd lean towards fuel issues, since there are so few PIDs on that system.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 332
Likes: 42
I wouldn't completely dis SG as a code reader. I found it did OK on engine codes but not good on transmission codes. Importantly, it doesn't display, IIRC, network errors that prevent scanning of the various networks, so you don't know what you don't know with SG.
So, one thing I would have you check right off is Reference Voltage - Vref. That's just your base network voltage across the trucks various LANs. It should be real close to 5V, and if not, it could mean you have a short or ground on one of your networks, in which case you might get multiple false codes (I've seen that many times here) or, I assume, no codes when there are some (haven't seen that)? Just check to confirm it's good.
If still no codes, I'm thinking that would eliminate a whole lot of possible causes, although I'm not the best one to identify which those are. I'd lean towards fuel issues, since there are so few PIDs on that system.
So, one thing I would have you check right off is Reference Voltage - Vref. That's just your base network voltage across the trucks various LANs. It should be real close to 5V, and if not, it could mean you have a short or ground on one of your networks, in which case you might get multiple false codes (I've seen that many times here) or, I assume, no codes when there are some (haven't seen that)? Just check to confirm it's good.
If still no codes, I'm thinking that would eliminate a whole lot of possible causes, although I'm not the best one to identify which those are. I'd lean towards fuel issues, since there are so few PIDs on that system.
I finally got all of the glow plug harness removed from the passenger side! Thought I'd never get #5 off. I tested the glow plugs, on the passenger side, and all but 1 had 0 ohms. I had to order the glow plugs and should get them tomorrow. While I was at it I replaced the blue spring with a new one just to make sure. The odd thing was the housing o-ring was shredded on the inner wall, never seen this before. Any idea what would cause this? I was seeing a little fuel pressure fluctuation from time to time.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 332
Likes: 42
Got it running today, changed the right bank glow plugs, harness and GPCM. Had a hard cold start then started fine. I will try it in the morning and see what happens. I did test the Vref and it was 4.9V.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 332
Likes: 42
I thought I fixed my problem started it yesterday morning and truck fired like it should. This morning cranked it and died on the first 3 times after that it ran it ran perfect. After idling for a few minutes I stopped it and started it a few time and the truck cranked right up. Went back 8 hours later and again fired right up. I checked for codes with the scanguage and again nothing appears. Fuel pressure is 62 now that I swapped the blue spring out for a new spring.
I will test the glow plugs on the drivers side. Would it be possible for the oil to drain from the HPOP while sitting for hours? Would it be worth testing the oil pressure to see what it is when it dies and after it starts? I will need to get the adapter and a gauge, I currently don't have any way to read oil PSI.
I will test the glow plugs on the drivers side. Would it be possible for the oil to drain from the HPOP while sitting for hours? Would it be worth testing the oil pressure to see what it is when it dies and after it starts? I will need to get the adapter and a gauge, I currently don't have any way to read oil PSI.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,343
Likes: 94
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Tuned
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 332
Likes: 42
Finally got the cable and Forscan so that I can scan the truck. There were DTCs found. Not sure if all of theses apply but I will post them all.
P0403, P0405, P0407, P0488, egr delete kit from Sinister installed, P0603, P0670, P0674, P0683, & P1000. From what I read P0603 may be due to me disconnecting the batteries. I did replace the GPCM, passenger side GP harness, and all GPs on the passenger side. Any ideas?
P0403, P0405, P0407, P0488, egr delete kit from Sinister installed, P0603, P0670, P0674, P0683, & P1000. From what I read P0603 may be due to me disconnecting the batteries. I did replace the GPCM, passenger side GP harness, and all GPs on the passenger side. Any ideas?
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Tuned
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 332
Likes: 42
I changed Glow plug 4, which showed bad on the scan. No change, still getting and error code on the GPCM. I do have the drivers side harness I will change out this weekend. Could the GPCM module plug missing the inner pink cover cause any issues? The shop that worked on it years ago must not have put it back it. All as been good until a few weeks ago.
Below is the pids I know to check for.
ICP - 579
ICPV - 0.87
FICMSYNC - yes
FICM_MPWR V - 49.5
FICM_LPWR V - 12.5
IPR % - 24.61
VFER V - 4.95
BARO_V V - 3.42
As far as i can tell these look ok from what I have learned from the guys here. Is there some other parameters I should check for?
Below is the pids I know to check for.
ICP - 579
ICPV - 0.87
FICMSYNC - yes
FICM_MPWR V - 49.5
FICM_LPWR V - 12.5
IPR % - 24.61
VFER V - 4.95
BARO_V V - 3.42
As far as i can tell these look ok from what I have learned from the guys here. Is there some other parameters I should check for?
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 332
Likes: 42
This is the kit that was on the truck when I purchased it "Sinister 6.0 Diesel EGR Valve/Cooler Delete Kit". I haven't looked at the wiring yet figured it was just because of the kit is why I was getting the code.
Can you recommend a shop manual? From what I am seeing looks like a lot of folks use ALLDATA.com.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,900
Likes: 3,617
I purchased the GPCM from my local ford dealer. I was getting a GP # 4 error also, tested it for ohms and it was bad, replaced it and that code went away. But still getting the GPCM error.
This is the kit that was on the truck when I purchased it "Sinister 6.0 Diesel EGR Valve/Cooler Delete Kit". I haven't looked at the wiring yet figured it was just because of the kit is why I was getting the code.
Can you recommend a shop manual? From what I am seeing looks like a lot of folks use ALLDATA.com.
This is the kit that was on the truck when I purchased it "Sinister 6.0 Diesel EGR Valve/Cooler Delete Kit". I haven't looked at the wiring yet figured it was just because of the kit is why I was getting the code.
Can you recommend a shop manual? From what I am seeing looks like a lot of folks use ALLDATA.com.
Interesting on the P0683 code, It is for failed communication of the GPCM with the PCM. Specifically : Open/Short circuit, switch, failed to activate during KOER switch test.
That one could be the wiring from the PCM to the GPCM (Engine Harness). I suppose it might be connected with the "pink cover" in the connector.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 332
Likes: 42
You are probably right about the EGR codes. I just get curious about electrical codes.
Interesting on the P0683 code, It is for failed communication of the GPCM with the PCM. Specifically : Open/Short circuit, switch, failed to activate during KOER switch test.
That one could be the wiring from the PCM to the GPCM (Engine Harness). I suppose it might be connected with the "pink cover" in the connector.
Interesting on the P0683 code, It is for failed communication of the GPCM with the PCM. Specifically : Open/Short circuit, switch, failed to activate during KOER switch test.
That one could be the wiring from the PCM to the GPCM (Engine Harness). I suppose it might be connected with the "pink cover" in the connector.