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The truck has been sitting since Sunday, I've been under the weather, so I decided to check the fuel level in the Fuel filter housing. It was full to the top with diesel. I guess that would rue out the filter bleeding down. Next I will check the glow plugs and GPCM.
SYK, HotRod, the guys here will grow impatient quickly without engine data from you. Scangauge can pull codes - it's not the best code reader, but it's not bad. And it reads live data fine. Use it now to help this diagnosis along while you wait for a Bluetooth/WiFi OBDII reader to arrive.
I bought my truck at 144k miles and didn't start replacing injectors until almost 300k. I assume they were original; and, bad fuel was the real problem - changed out my filters and drained the aux tank I'd been pumping from and the other 6 injectors are still going good at 306k miles. However, I expect I get better life outta mine because it's almost all highway miles for long hours, albeit pulling a medium load in a heavy f450 truck.
SYK, HotRod, the guys here will grow impatient quickly without engine data from you. Scangauge can pull codes - it's not the best code reader, but it's not bad. And it reads live data fine. Use it now to help this diagnosis along while you wait for a Bluetooth/WiFi OBDII reader to arrive.
I bought my truck at 144k miles and didn't start replacing injectors until almost 300k. I assume they were original; and, bad fuel was the real problem - changed out my filters and drained the aux tank I'd been pumping from and the other 6 injectors are still going good at 306k miles. However, I expect I get better life outta mine because it's almost all highway miles for long hours, albeit pulling a medium load in a heavy f450 truck.
Without data, my guess is glow plugs.
I appreciate your advice. I thought I remembered reading the scanguage codes may not be accurate. I will check it tomorrow and post my findings. Is there any PIDS in particular I should be looking at? I I checked ICP and it looked normal as did the voltage and FLP. I have a buddy who has a scanning tool not sure the brand, but he said since I have no CEL the scanner wouldn't pick up anything.
It might be that the scanner he has only reads CELs, but there are many DTCs that don't trigger a CEL automatically. Some of the other guys will have better advice than me about which PIDs to monitor for your symptoms, but the place to start is with the codes being thrown. It is very likely there will be some with those symptoms, and if not, that would eliminate a whole lot of possibilities as well.
I finally got to check for codes with the scanguage today, it didn't find any. Today was the first time I tried starting it since last Sunday and it started and died twice then took a while to get it cranked. Once started it ran fine. Some of the pids I checked were:
EOT vs FWT KOEO 2 degree delta
FMP 49.5
FLP KOEO 11.5 running 12.5 to 13
ICP at idle 870. Highest I saw while driving was 2200+-
Fuel psi 55 @ idle. 52 to 60 while driving.
I got tied up today and couldn't test the GPM but tomorrow I will test that.
Not sure if you are understanding this part, but scan gauge is not designed as a code reader. It will find some. But there are other areas it will not. It will read sensor outputs reliably.
Not sure if you are understanding this part, but scan gauge is not designed as a code reader. It will find some. But there are other areas it will not. It will read sensor outputs reliably.
Maybe I misunderstood about the scanguage.
Started checking things this past weekend and the glowplug harness on the passenger side was cracked at the one of the plugs. I have a new harness and started replacing it however all but one plug broke when trying to remove it. I have all but one plug out, it is being very stubborn. I had the module and glow plugs 5, 6, & 8 changed about 115,000 miles ago. Question is the shop must have removed the inner cap on the modules green plug and never put it back in, could this cause any sort of shorts or arcing? None of the plug terminals look bent or opened up too much. Visually I don't see anything wrong with the module, is there a tool that could test it while I have it removed?
A side note I thought the shop was a reputable one, but now that I look back at the things they worked there are bolts missing or broken. I guess those were optional! I understand the truck has a lot of miles but let the customer know and give them the option when things are broken to replace it or not. Not to mention $132 to change the module and only put one nut back on. Ok my rant is over sorry it is frustrating.
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