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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Starter "Heat soak" Issues

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Old May 11, 2021 | 11:17 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by andrewrandall01
I never wouldve guess cables that simple are so expensive. Any other options besides selling an arm and a leg?
The answer lays deep within you. Specifically, your kidneys. You've got two. You only need one. Problem solved.

Originally Posted by andrewrandall01
I bet that is the issue, but blowing 100 bucks i want to make absolutely sure lol
Go way back to the link given in post #2. As hideous and vomit-inducing as the existing cables may appear, for all we know they may be performing adequately. Not likely, but not totally impossible. Spend the ten minutes. Do the voltage drop test at that link. Then you will absolutely positively know if those cables need to be replaced.
 
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Old May 12, 2021 | 12:04 AM
  #32  
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A real fun test if you have a carbon pile load tester is to test the cables under 250 amp load. Test at the battery first then test from the positive cable, if it burns up or drops voltage you found your issue.
 
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Old May 12, 2021 | 12:11 AM
  #33  
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Andrew,
I bet you never imagined your question would have created such a chit storm.
Welcome to the Bullnose forum. It's often a wild ride.

Let us who don't know everything or anything know how it turns out.
 
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Old May 12, 2021 | 01:10 AM
  #34  
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I am not saying don't test but with the pictures it is almost a given the cables are the issue.

Someone said it could be timing and a quick test to see is what I pasted as no tools, timing light, is needed.
If it is a timing issue then break out the light.
Dave. ----
 
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Old May 12, 2021 | 12:57 PM
  #35  
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Yea lol this was just like the forums i read previously, there was a million solutions lol. BUT the fact the starter works everytime like a charm makes me feel like its the resistance build-up so the wiring to the battery is the first solution regardless if it fixes the starter. Hoping thats the over all issue but i will let everyone know when i get the new lines.
 
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Old May 12, 2021 | 01:41 PM
  #36  
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The cables definitely have to go, especially those bolt on battery clamps. Just remember you have 3 cables. If you replace 2 with heavier gauge and leave one on that's too small you've accomplished nothing. One bad or too small a cable will restrict the current flow in the whole cranking circuit. Most of the auto parts store will have 4 gauge cables which may be sufficient but 2 gauge would be my choice. If you have an automotive electrical shop near you they can probably make a set.
 
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Old May 12, 2021 | 06:10 PM
  #37  
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Alright everybody, just got the positive battery cable and installed it today. Wanted to test it so i put back the old piece of crap negative terminal and i recognized that it did start faster. But after about a 20 minute drive once again it started slow, so im going to take your advice kh and not single out the problem until all the wires have been replaced. Waiting for the others to ship but thanks everyone for the help
 
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Old May 12, 2021 | 06:22 PM
  #38  
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Charge that poor battery!

Do yourself a YUGE favor while waiting for the new cables:

CHARGE THAT POOR BATTERY!

There's no guarantee the battery was getting a proper charge, especially with those ratty cables. Charge the battery while waiting to be sure.

You'll want an automatic charger with at least a ten amp output. A trickle charger won't cut it. If you try a trickle charger anyway, I shall move into your guest room until you admit the error of your ways.
 
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Old May 12, 2021 | 09:42 PM
  #39  
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Old May 13, 2021 | 12:34 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by kr98664
The answer lays deep within you. Specifically, your kidneys. You've got two. You only need one. Problem solved.



Go way back to the link given in post #2. As hideous and vomit-inducing as the existing cables may appear, for all we know they may be performing adequately. Not likely, but not totally impossible. Spend the ten minutes. Do the voltage drop test at that link. Then you will absolutely positively know if those cables need to be replaced.
Vomit-inducing?
 
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Old May 13, 2021 | 03:57 PM
  #41  
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FWIW, partsgeek.com sent me this for $34.17 with tax and shipping. Negative battery cable. 86' 302EFI. Ordered it May 10th. at 4:30PM.

Update after install, I had to open up the bolt holes in both terminals. Easy thing to do.

 
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Old May 20, 2021 | 03:09 PM
  #42  
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Hey everybody, last comment on the starter stuff. Got all the new wiring installed and checked all cranking and non cranking grounds and pos wires all through the starting system. They work great and for the hell of it i tested my old stuff, which suprising for how crappy it looked worked just as well. So sadly i did blow a fair amount of money just to find that the starter is still bad but thank everybody for the help.
 
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Old May 22, 2021 | 01:47 PM
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Old Jun 5, 2021 | 06:12 PM
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Any update?
 
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