6.0 no start
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6.0 no start
Got a ford f 450 04 6.0 have no start issue, I've opened fuel bowl at engine plug starter wire rolled engine with ficm off and no air is coming up so injectors are sealed, I changed out the fuel filters and began no start issues afterwards, I cycled the pump alot, then got a pressure test because it still wouldn't fire. I've got 45- 48 psi at test port so its enough for injectors and testing the blackspring as far as I'm aware that port checks the spring pressure, so what are is left that could be a problem I changed out 4 glow plugs and got a new harness how do I test if the glow plugs are firing? Could the glow plugs be wrong? The truck ran before changing fuel filters and one side 4 glow plugs i checked to start before installing the others and this is where I am no start and 45 psi on the fuel rail or test port below second filter supposed to be the last spot to check pressure am I correct?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,589
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I would check the engine bowl fuel filter to make sure it is not crushed or twisted. If it’s either it will not push the spring loaded mounting stem valve open. The filter
needs to be attached to the cap before install.
OR
Unplug the ICP. If it starts, that’s your problem.
Ed
needs to be attached to the cap before install.
OR
Unplug the ICP. If it starts, that’s your problem.
Ed
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 20
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I would check the engine bowl fuel filter to make sure it is not crushed or twisted. If it’s either it will not push the spring loaded mounting stem valve open. The filter
needs to be attached to the cap before install.
OR
Unplug the ICP. If it starts, that’s your problem.
Ed
needs to be attached to the cap before install.
OR
Unplug the ICP. If it starts, that’s your problem.
Ed
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: May 2021
Posts: 20
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After further testing plugged icp back in and it rolled over the same as before no firing, or very little then I unplugged the icp and it started for 30 secs and died out does that mean I need a new icp?
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: May 2021
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I would check the engine bowl fuel filter to make sure it is not crushed or twisted. If it’s either it will not push the spring loaded mounting stem valve open. The filter
needs to be attached to the cap before install.
OR
Unplug the ICP. If it starts, that’s your problem.
Ed
needs to be attached to the cap before install.
OR
Unplug the ICP. If it starts, that’s your problem.
Ed
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,924
Likes: 3,649
You are correct on the spot to test fuel pressure. That said, 45 psig with just the key on is too low. That is the bare minimum and no doubt you probably drop below that when you get it running and you hit the accelerator.
Will the secondary fuel filter bowl fill up quickly with the key on (takes two people so that you don't overflow the bowl). Remove the filter, suck out any standing fuel, and conduct the test. Post the number of seconds to fill.
Also, posting a picture of the engine bay might help.
BTW - post #8 is a helpful post! If you don't know what scan tool you have, then you should invest in a new one. A phone app on a smartphone with an OBDII adapter is the most economical way to go. Torque Pro or ForScan are the two most common .... with ForScan being the best code reader, but Torque Pro is a little easier to use.
You need to post engine data. If you don't, you will end up replacing more things that do not need replacing.
Cam/Crank sync
FICM sync
cranking rpm
ICP volts
ICP pressure
IPR % Duty Cycle
FICM MPower
FICM VPower
V-reference voltage
Will the secondary fuel filter bowl fill up quickly with the key on (takes two people so that you don't overflow the bowl). Remove the filter, suck out any standing fuel, and conduct the test. Post the number of seconds to fill.
Also, posting a picture of the engine bay might help.
BTW - post #8 is a helpful post! If you don't know what scan tool you have, then you should invest in a new one. A phone app on a smartphone with an OBDII adapter is the most economical way to go. Torque Pro or ForScan are the two most common .... with ForScan being the best code reader, but Torque Pro is a little easier to use.
You need to post engine data. If you don't, you will end up replacing more things that do not need replacing.
Cam/Crank sync
FICM sync
cranking rpm
ICP volts
ICP pressure
IPR % Duty Cycle
FICM MPower
FICM VPower
V-reference voltage
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New User
Joined: May 2021
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Ok I'm gunna install blue spring upgrade and see if that works I got it running now, and its rough.. ipc out to start it choked alot of black smoke .. then I shut her down plug ipc in, and its stumbled to fire but starts up everytime now ill get, a good code reader and see what those elements are if the blueprint doesn't help, fuel bowl takes 3 secs to fill from complete empty.
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New User
Joined: May 2021
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So im having troubles getting a scan tool for ids.. I got a scanner that reads the truck dtc, and there's nothing the codes before were just random from it not starting on low voltage, new batteries solved that.. so I have no dtc codes but ids I can't check odb scanners I tried available to me were not compatible. To order one online is 2 weeks to get here maybe.. any ideas?? Also im seeing similar problems point to ficm for most.. if I were to try just replacing it in hopes.. does it need factory or vcm2 to reprogram or can I plug and play? Thanks for the help greatly appreciated.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,343
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It should be fairly easy to get a scanner. Forscan is an app that downloads in minutes or less. Then what you need is a wireless OBD adapter compatible with your device. Some use wifi. Others Bluetooth. Get the right one. They can be had from Amazon in a couple days. Total costs maybe $40-45.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 4,673
Likes: 532
From: Houston, Texas
Yep, just slow down, get your reader hooked up, and with the help here, you'll have this solved in no time. What you're describing should be leaving some obvious clues, you just gotta read them.