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Death wobble

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Old May 6, 2021 | 12:11 PM
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Death wobble

2006 F250 4x4 with 230K miles. Original front end components. I have never had any serious handling issues until Monday night. Four terrifying death wobble incidents at highway speed had me checking lug nuts on the shoulder.
The loosest part I found in the steering was the track bar bushing. I replaced it (that is an entire story of its own) and it made an enormous difference in the feeling of control. Steering is much tighter, no death wobble.
I will work my way through the rest of the bushings and ball joints this year.

I fixed my problem with an $18 track bar bushing and 30mm socket from Orielly’s. It’s not OEM and far from perfect but it got me on the road for very little money. Turned the air blue with cuss words trying to press the new bushing back in but that’s normal with all Super Duty maintenance.
 
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Old May 9, 2021 | 10:50 AM
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Have seen many 1970s thru 2000s F-Series do the "wobble" for one reason or another. 2006 is not a particularly prone year (I own a 06 F-250), but that component you mentioned needs to be changed every 100K or so.

 
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Old May 9, 2021 | 03:37 PM
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My truck never did the wobble before that particular night. I recognized the symptoms right away-every time I hit a bump or rough spot in the road it would oscillate wildly, nearly out of control.
The only way I found to stop it was to immediately slow down. Not all the way to a stop but darn close to it. Fortunately it was late at night so minimal traffic.

I’m really happy with the result of replacing the bushing. It made a remarkable difference in control and ride quality. I will do the rest of the wear parts soon.
 
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Old May 10, 2021 | 12:02 AM
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Sis you also do the ball joint on the other end of the track bar?
One other thing to look at that is easy to do is the dampener.
 
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Old May 10, 2021 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
Sis you also do the ball joint on the other end of the track bar?
One other thing to look at that is easy to do is the dampener.
I did not do the ball joint.
If I had the ball joint tool I would have tried it but I’ve heard such bad things about the loaner tools I didn’t bother.
I see no sense in replacing the entire track bar. The bushing and ball joint aren’t expensive and the old bar itself is just fine.

I tell you what, it was a chore and a half to get the new bushing into the track bar. I used a replacement oem style and had to cut the outer metal ring out of the track bar eye. Then I spent almost 2 hours under the truck trying everything to push the new one in. Finally I went to bed in frustration and planned to go buy an entire track bar replacement the next morning. With a fresh perspective in the morning I pulled the track bar off the ball joint and into the garage to use my big vice. I lightly sanded the bushing and the eye and then using 3’ of steel pipe on the vise handle I was able to force the bushing into place.

I figure I spent 5 hours, maybe 6 hours getting the old bushing out and the new one in. Reinstalling the track bar took 10 minutes at the most.
 
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Old May 10, 2021 | 06:53 AM
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Sometimes you have to get a new tool if it was damaged prior, they don't do a great job of inspecting them on return as a rental place does, but they are free. So inspection before leaving the store can sometimes prevent that.

Bushings like that can be a real PITA unless you have the screw-based I/R tools or a press. But, unfortunately, our LS has those on both the front and rear suspension everywhere, in aluminum wishbones, and you can't get quality replacements. Not looking forward to that.

 
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Old May 10, 2021 | 10:50 AM
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While still under the truck I tried heating up the track bar eye switch Mapp gas. Didn’t work at all.
The next day as I was recounting the adventure to my very practical father he asked me if I put the bushing in the freezer.
Why didn’t I think of that?
So next time that’s what I will do. I see that swap going much faster.
 
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