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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Installing Headers

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Old May 8, 2021 | 06:44 AM
  #31  
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From: St Albert, Alberta
Originally Posted by Rusty_S
Ill add that to my list and do some digging on that. Shouldnt be a problem with unscrewing from aluminum heads being medium strength. I know the 242 is blue in color as well thats what is actually recommended by ARP for the ARP flex plate bolts. I just wouldnt attempt to use that cause 300* max temp is not enough for headers.
Ya 2422 gets overlooked a lot due the similarity of the name to the regular 242 I think people just think it's a typo. Loctite could have done a better job on that and maybe called it 242HT or something of the like.
As it is basically just a higher temp version of 242.

2422 TDS
http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/Sh...EN&plant=WERCS
 
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Old May 8, 2021 | 07:13 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by kr98664
Sorry to drift off topic by posing a technical question, but would there be any advantage to ditching bolts in favor of studs and nuts?

The stud length could be chosen for adequate engagement in the block (any opinions on that?). The protrusion could be adjusted for the thickness of the nut plus a couple of extra threads.

Installation overall might be easier as you could hang the gaskets on the studs, versus trying to align them with the bolts.


Studs may and likely would have some advantages in this application, but really in most instances, bolts are just as, and potentially more practical. You can use a reduced-sized head bolt like Socket (Allen), E Torx or 12 point headed bolt for improved clearance for install and removal. Whereas it is pretty hard to reduce the size of a nut on a stud of a fixed diameter.

The back-out problem can be mitigated by a high temp thread locker. A bit of high temp thread locker will stop header bolt back out it in basically all instances.
 
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Old May 8, 2021 | 08:08 AM
  #33  
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I recall the 340 in my Plymouth Duster had a couple studs in the head. The rest were bolts.

I recall we cut the flange between the end pipes to keep them from warping and causing a leak.
 
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Old May 8, 2021 | 08:34 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by matthewq4b
Ya 2422 gets overlooked a lot due the similarity of the name to the regular 242 I think people just think it's a typo. Loctite could have done a better job on that and maybe called it 242HT or something of the like.
As it is basically just a higher temp version of 242.

2422 TDS
http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/Studio/Sh...EN&plant=WERCS
lol Yep thats what I thought to when I went looking and was seeing 242 instead of 2422. I agree they should have called in 242HT or something or give it a different number entirely instead of just added another number to it.
 
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Old May 8, 2021 | 08:37 PM
  #35  
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by matthewq4b
Studs may and likely would have some advantages in this application, but really in most instances, bolts are just as, and potentially more practical. You can use a reduced-sized head bolt like Socket (Allen), E Torx or 12 point headed bolt for improved clearance for install and removal. Whereas it is pretty hard to reduce the size of a nut on a stud of a fixed diameter.

The back-out problem can be mitigated by a high temp thread locker. A bit of high temp thread locker will stop header bolt back out it in basically all instances.
The thread locker also helps to keep the threads corroding. Something you have a good chance of happening with exhaust bolts. I dont know how many I see at work broken off in aluminum heads due to corrosion. I was going to put antiseize on the threads of the bolts into aluminum to help prevent this but since I see the 2422 now I wont have to, just place some on the threads and thread it in. Thankfully since I am going with shorty headers to fit the OE Y pipe I can bolt it all together and drop the engine in as one assembly.
 
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Old May 9, 2021 | 12:34 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Rusty_S
I always laugh at that, they have a fastener torque spec but yet how are you supposed to torque header bolts to their spec when you cant even get a ratchet on them in the first place.
I know with my BBK 3510 shorty headers on my 302, I was able to torque almost every one of the bolts. I think there were a couple I had to do with a wrench...but seriously, if you've spent enough time working with tools, you get pretty good at knowing torque by feel. Some of you may want to flame me for that...but torque specs, in many cases, aren't nearly as critical as people think they are.

I have 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" torque wrenches. I learned the hard way many years ago not to try and do low torque numbers with bigger torque wrenches.

Anyway...for headers on a 302, get the correct Remflex gaskets and 1" ARP header bolts, and then set it and forget it...just like Ron Pompeil says...

 
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Old May 9, 2021 | 08:43 PM
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From: Houston
Originally Posted by Rembrant
I know with my BBK 3510 shorty headers on my 302, I was able to torque almost every one of the bolts. I think there were a couple I had to do with a wrench...but seriously, if you've spent enough time working with tools, you get pretty good at knowing torque by feel. Some of you may want to flame me for that...but torque specs, in many cases, aren't nearly as critical as people think they are.

I have 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" torque wrenches. I learned the hard way many years ago not to try and do low torque numbers with bigger torque wrenches.

Anyway...for headers on a 302, get the correct Remflex gaskets and 1" ARP header bolts, and then set it and forget it...just like Ron Pompeil says...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLq27iOW0R0
For many things torque spec is not that important such as valve covers, headers, oil pans, timing cover, water pump, etc. But some things torque does matter how ever.
 
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