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In the machine tool industry we have used a basic formula for many decades....
a minimum of 1.5 times the diameter of thread engagement in steel,cast iron and a minimum of 2 times the diameter in aluminum.
Having built brand new machine tools for years, this is a tried and true formula.
In the machine tool industry we have used a basic formula for many decades....
a minimum of 1.5 times the diameter of thread engagement in steel,cast iron and a minimum of 2 times the diameter in aluminum.
Having built brand new machine tools for years, this is a tried and true formula.
Yep, but for me out of personal preference I like to have my bolt engage 3/4 worth of the threads depth wise. So if the threaded part is 1" deep on the threaded portion then I like to see the bolt once passing through the part its attaching to reach 3/4" into the threaded part. Bit over kill but I just prefer more thread engagement than the recommended amount.
In the machine tool industry we have used a basic formula for many decades....
a minimum of 1.5 times the diameter of thread engagement in steel,cast iron and a minimum of 2 times the diameter in aluminum.
Having built brand new machine tools for years, this is a tried and true formula.
1.5 may not allow for full fastener torque especially with some of the courser thread pitches on some of the higher strength bolts.
1.5 may not allow for full fastener torque especially with some of the courser thread pitches on some of the higher strength bolts.
I always laugh at that, they have a fastener torque spec but yet how are you supposed to torque header bolts to their spec when you cant even get a ratchet on them in the first place.
Ive always used a 3/8" wrench and work the closed end over the bolt head and starting in the middle I work my way out snugging down through multiple passes till I cant get the bolts to turn anymore. I also strongly advise to double check them, Ive had customers come back in a year later and not bringing it back like I tell them to at 500 - 1000 miles for me to check the header bolts and in a years time they have bolts missing or backed out. Dont care what you do with actual ARP header bolts they have to be tightened down again. I thought of putting something like loctite 242 on them but going form memory I dont think the 242 is rated high enough temp for exhaust use. Plus if you are going into aluminum heads may pull the threads out on removal.
I always laugh at that, they have a fastener torque spec but yet how are you supposed to torque header bolts to their spec when you cant even get a ratchet on them in the first place.
Ive always used a 3/8" wrench and work the closed end over the bolt head and starting in the middle I work my way out snugging down through multiple passes till I cant get the bolts to turn anymore. I also strongly advise to double check them, Ive had customers come back in a year later and not bringing it back like I tell them to at 500 - 1000 miles for me to check the header bolts and in a years time they have bolts missing or backed out. Dont care what you do with actual ARP header bolts they have to be tightened down again. I thought of putting something like loctite 242 on them but going form memory I dont think the 242 is rated high enough temp for exhaust use. Plus if you are going into aluminum heads may pull the threads out on removal.
You could try something like Loctite 2422 it is an Ultra High Temperature (650°F) Threadlocker in the medium strength range. It is blue in colour,
650°F is more than hot enough for headers, if the cylinder head that the bolt is screwed into gets up to 650° you will have will bigger things to worry about than lose headers....
Is it just me or do other remember lock washers on header bolts...?
If you really wantto torque them to spec, I doubt most of us do, there are a few "attachments" that will let you get at the bolt head, one example would be a "crowfoot wrench".
But in the real world, you just need to check them from time to time, just like you should be doing a few times a year when you look over the truck and engine for issues.
I’ll start making popcorn. Regular or kettle corn flavor?
That's what I was thinking too.
I hope this doesn't turn into a issue. It's just 1/4" or 5/16" header bolts we're talking about not a 3" bolt the holds a bridge up or the something like the 7/8" bolts we use to hold the 11,300lbs.Oxygen Generators in the Virginia class Submarines.
Yes true. A quick example would be AMS5484 material bolts whose tensile 80% stronger than Grade 8 when fully torqued or in a torque to yield application on a course thread in some of the low tensile untreated mild steels and cast irons you would pull the threads right out. Do I need to show the calculations to prove it to you ?
Sorry to drift off topic by posing a technical question, but would there be any advantage to ditching bolts in favor of studs and nuts?
The stud length could be chosen for adequate engagement in the block (any opinions on that?). The protrusion could be adjusted for the thickness of the nut plus a couple of extra threads.
Installation overall might be easier as you could hang the gaskets on the studs, versus trying to align them with the bolts.
You could try something like Loctite 2422 it is an Ultra High Temperature (650°F) Threadlocker in the medium strength range. It is blue in colour,
650°F is more than hot enough for headers, if the cylinder head that the bolt is screwed into gets up to 650° you will have will bigger things to worry about than lose headers....
Ill add that to my list and do some digging on that. Shouldnt be a problem with unscrewing from aluminum heads being medium strength. I know the 242 is blue in color as well thats what is actually recommended by ARP for the ARP flex plate bolts. I just wouldnt attempt to use that cause 300* max temp is not enough for headers.
Originally Posted by Max Capacity
Is it just me or do other remember lock washers on header bolts...?
If you really wantto torque them to spec, I doubt most of us do, there are a few "attachments" that will let you get at the bolt head, one example would be a "crowfoot wrench".
But in the real world, you just need to check them from time to time, just like you should be doing a few times a year when you look over the truck and engine for issues.
There are lock washers as well as locking washers that lock up against the header tube. ARP doesnt include locking washers of any kind just plain smooth washers at least the set I bought did.
Originally Posted by Max Capacity
That's what I was thinking too.
I hope this doesn't turn into a issue. It's just 1/4" or 5/16" header bolts we're talking about not a 3" bolt the holds a bridge up or the something like the 7/8" bolts we use to hold the 11,300lbs.Oxygen Generators in the Virginia class Submarines.
Hopefully we can just move on.
Why I always just keep snugging them down working from center outwards till the bolts quit getting tighter with a 3/8" wrench