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The book listed above is a good idea, and review a bunch of threads here as well. Once you get the parts figured out, being aware of assembly issues and tricks is important.
If you can swing it, a roller cam will eliminate the wiped out cam problems people have been having with flat tappets and current oils.
For your extra money you pick up a few HP to boot.
Awesome, thanks a ton. I sure learned a lot today.
Thanks, I will look into doing a compression test. But, I do know it definitely has to be rebuilt because apparently the crank bearings are worn. He says I can drive it for the next year or two, but I should really rebuild it. It runs fine enough that I can drive it for the summer, but I would just like to have it start easier, idle better, and perform better too. It is incredibly slow. Not to mention mileage and reliability.
I wouldn't buy another part until you determine the current engine's condition. There's no possible way to know any engine bearings are shot without complete tear down and careful inspection/ measurement. Fuel mileage and FE will NEVER go together. Reliability and power however go hand in hand with a proper setup and tune of what you have already. A compression test, leak-down test, setting timing accurately with constant clean fuel and a strong ignition system will get you off to a good start.
Old or original harmonic balancers are known to shift the outer ring due to the inner rubber band becoming dry rotted and cracking. This will throw off your timing marks on a timing light and make tuning it futile. You can find plenty of posts on this topic on here.
Checking on your distributor itself can yield easy tuning improvements also. Lots of threads on here about adjusting points or even replacing it with Duraspark or PerTronix Ignitors.
Lastly your carb and fuel pump condition needs detailed attention that could fill volumes of threads.
Most importantly take your time, take lots of notes, get that book mentioned prior and do lots of research!
I wouldn't buy another part until you determine the current engine's condition. There's no possible way to know any engine bearings are shot without complete tear down and careful inspection/ measurement. Fuel mileage and FE will NEVER go together. Reliability and power however go hand in hand with a proper setup and tune of what you have already. A compression test, leak-down test, setting timing accurately with constant clean fuel and a strong ignition system will get you off to a good start.
Old or original harmonic balancers are known to shift the outer ring due to the inner rubber band becoming dry rotted and cracking. This will throw off your timing marks on a timing light and make tuning it futile. You can find plenty of posts on this topic on here.
Checking on your distributor itself can yield easy tuning improvements also. Lots of threads on here about adjusting points or even replacing it with Duraspark or PerTronix Ignitors.
Lastly your carb and fuel pump condition needs detailed attention that could fill volumes of threads.
Most importantly take your time, take lots of notes, get that book mentioned prior and do lots of research!
Thanks for the advice. I plan on rebuilding it next fall anyway, so I will continue to tinker with it until then. I will definitely see about that timing issue, because somehow my engine still pings at high rpm, even with the incredibly low compression.
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