Hey guys, I am really new to FTE and this is only me second post on here. Anyway, the engine in my 1973 f100 is very tired, to say the least. It has trouble starting sometimes, has a dead spot in the throttle, and leaks from the rear main. I had it reviewed by a mechanic and he said that it definitely needs a rebuild. Not to mention, it is super, super weak. So, I was reviewing my options and thought I could use some help from some experts. My truck has a post emissions 360 v8, 4 barrel carb, and headers. That's all I know about the engine pretty much. Anyway, here are my options I have considered so far:
1. Get this block machined and rebuild it as it is.
2. get block machined and rebuild as 390
3. buy 390 long block and attach all of the exterior parts I have.
I really like the third option because it will get me a lot more power because I can buy a 60s long block(pre emissions).
I am not an expert and I've never rebuilt an engine, but I will be doing this next fall when I have access to a garage at my shop class in school. They have all of the tools I would need, and the teacher can help me out. I will be working all summer to afford this, and my budget will be around 3 grand. Also, I would like to get above 300 hp and at least 400 foot pounds of torque. I know this is a lot but if any of you guys can give me any advice I'd really appreciate it

 

There are a good number of shops that sell remanufactured FE engines as what they call a "crate motor." Some will deliver to your door and they won't even ask you for a "core" or ask for a core charge. These can be stock or any one of several improved performance "stages." Here is one example of the performance kind: https://www.phoenixengine.com/Ford-09.html

 

Flowney, I appreciate the reply but that is way out of my budget. However, couldn't I just buy a long block for a 390 for under 3 grand, and the switch all of my 360 parts onto it? Or would it be cheaper to rebuild the engine that I have?

 

Its definitely cheaper to do a rebuild of your own... after machine work and a master rebuild kit you are prolly looking at 1500 or so. A bit more if you find a Junkyard rotating assembly for a 390.

The long block is 3k, but you get to keep all your time AND it's already a 390.

Either way, and yes of course you can use all the existing accessories. This is how its done all the time.

 

Ok, I guess I'll just rebuild this one as a 390 then. How would I go about getting the specs that I was shooting for though? I believe a stock 60's 390 with a 4 barrel was already there, so could I just convert it to a pre emissions version somehow?

 

If you aren't worried about emissions, just build it without... get a spacer where the egr plate, toss it. Plug the hole in the manifold, The exhaust manifolds can just be plugged too... not a big deal really. There isn't much to do to eliminate the emissions stuff.

 

Build it without what? And I know its probably a dumb question, but what and where is the egr plate? Also, what hole in the manifold? And I have headers, no exhaust manifolds. Also, and sorry for asking so many questions at once, all of this was enough to drop the numbers that much from pre to post emmissions?

 

Absolutely. I cited a high end example but you can get a stock FE long block from any local auto prts store such as AutoZone: https://www.autozone.com/powertrain/...AaAgMFEALw_wcB

Of course DIY is almost always cheaper but riskier as well. This is an individual calculation so YMMV.

 

That block was for a GM engine. I've been looking at autozone, and I haven't been able to find an FE block. The cheapest one on other websites that I have found are like 2,700 bucks. Pretty much my whole budget.

 

Absolutely. I cited a high end example but you can get a stock FE long block from any local auto prts store such as AutoZone: https://www.autozone.com/powertrain/...AaAgMFEALw_wcB

Of course DIY is almost always cheaper but riskier as well. This is an individual calculation so YMMV.

 

FORD 390 CID LONG BLOCK ENGINE 1963-76 NO CORE - UNITED ENGINE (alamedamotor.com)

No core, 2500 plus tax. So roughly 2750.00 plus whatever shipping is... so yah, 3k sounds right.

They are all over ebay also for probably the same give or take. ALL of your 360 stuff is plug and play, the 390 and 360 are the exact same excluding the crank, rods and pistons.

The emissions stuff... don't worry about it unless you need to satisfy emissions in your state. Emissions blocks? Emissions engines? Nope... the only thing emissions wise is the add on stuff after the fact. There is no emissions block... heads vary, but you will get new with the longblock.

 

Alright cool, but how do I know what compression ratio the long block has?

 

You have to make sure it's the 390 crank and rods, and then ask what the compression height of the pistons is, and what is the piston top design. And what size are the combustion chambers, and if the block was decked. What the piston to deck measurement if they have it.

You are looking for a 1.77" (approx) compression height, and a slight dish with valve reliefs for the "9.5" combo. Combustion chamber size figures in here as well.

And, hardened valve seats--ask about those as well.

 

Alright I will. Thanks a ton, I sure learned a lot today.