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So, I got a four gauge pod put together. Now where to put it. I think directly in front of the driver's position it won't look right. Nor does it fit the contour of the dash. I would have to sand the bottom to get it to fit right. Over the radio it fits a lot better, but still a little contouring work on the bottom of the pod will be needed. But then it will angled away from me a bit. So I would need to **** it toward my a hair. I think it still looks better over the radio. B.
I am VERY seriously also considering adding a coolant pressure gauge just below the "A" pillar handle. There are several single gauge pods available for that location as well. Especially after reading what happened in this thread;
OMG. I CAN'T go through what I have been having with my engine, only to put it back together and run into that? It would be time to go back to owning a GM product truck I think. This poor guy was pushed into buying a Dodge! SMH. B.
For trimming the pod to fit, I would make a template by sanding a piece of 1/4" mdf or masonite on my bench mounted belt sander, double stick tape it to the pod and use a flush trim router bit to cut it to the template.
Putting my dash back together..... Finally. Does anyone have an electrical schematic of the head light circuit? I need to find the correct wire to dim the gauges at night when the head lights are on. Thanks, B
While re-installing my dash, I changed out the stereo head unit mic. The one I had installed got caught between some metal and cut the cable. Since that was 2 1/2 years ago when I did the stereo, I was a little ticked off when it did not work. I finally got around to fixing the issue (LOL). This time I wrapped the mic wire in 1/8" wire loom to protect it.
But, punching a hole in the firewall for my gauge wires was a real bear. I did not realize the firewall is THREE pieces of sheet metal. Even using a Green Lee Knock Out with a 24" long handled 1/2" drive rachet was not enough power to cut through the firewall. I had to pull out the good old EnerPac hydraulic unit. That firewall said "uncle" in a heart beat. Ha Ha. B.
You can go through Grainger's less expensive, online non-commercial site Mark - Zoro.
I can't believe I bought that in 2017. It doesn't state a high temp rating, but I think we're good with either.
Thanks for bringing in the other parts.
I just purchased 2 of these from Grainger and picked them up at my local store without having to pay shipping cost. Most places to ship this small item was almost double the part cost, not to mention a longer wait to have them shipped.
Why are the aftermarket coolant pressure gauges graduated up to 35 PSI? If any automotive coolant system gets that high they will be blowing off hoses or heater cores? It just seems high for a gauge and a system that should never go that high. Thanks. B.
Ok, I ordered the GLow Shift Max Tow coolant pressure gauge and a single "A" pillar pod to put it in. It's not here yet. But, I got the fuel pressure gauge sending unit and the HPOP pigtail installed. Very neat. Plenty of room for the fuel pressure sending unit. Fuel pressure is steady at 60 PSI with minor drops to 57PSI under WOT. B.
Got my last gauge, a Max Tow coolant pressure gauge along with a single "A" pillar pod. The pod hit the top of my dash and pushed the pod up the "A" pillar. Which was going to cause issues with my grand handle. So I heated up the bottom of the pod and pushed in in a tad. Still a tight fit. Ran the wires and got it hooked up. My gauges are done. I'm monitoring left and right banks with EGT, Fuel Pressure, HPOP, and Coolant Pressure. B.
Idea stolen from 87crewdually. I used a little bit of Ultra Black silicone sealer on the threads of the sending unit, just to make sure there are no leaks. And let it sit over night before running it.
I haven't been on here in awhile so I'm catching up with some of you guys. Looks like you're making good headway.
It was long ago but I think I had to remold the a-pillar pod too for the best fit.
