When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks! It's 3M Brushable Seam Sealer. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40067208/
Like most of their products, expensive but worth it. Use in a well-ventilated area, those solvent vapors are strong!
The problem with just using flat sheet metal in places that had stamped ribs is that it's more flexible. I figured Ford put those ribs in for a reason and I should keep them Fortunately, Carolina Classics has good ones (original heavy-gauge).
Today I cut and fitted the right front floor pan piece and drilled it for 16 plug welds; sanded, primed and painted the cab mount; removed the seat (if the planets align, the upholstery guy will call for it this week) and sanded the surface rust from the floor; sanded both sides of the inner fender and the inside of the outer fender.
I still need to make and replace a rusted inner fender bracket (same place as the other side was), and sand some smaller areas before I can undercoat/paint the fenders. Fortunately the rest of the floor just had some (relatively) light surface rust, so I may apply Ospho and hose it off after 30 min or so. Considering POR-15 vs. good old Rustoleum prime & paint...
Will post pics tomorrow, I didn't take any today and I'm too tired now
I made the patch for the inner fender (same place as the other side, right up by the firewall), welded it in and applied seam sealer. Then I degreased the inner fender and sprayed it with Rustoleum primer. Once that's cured I'll put undercoating underneath and satin black Rustoleum on the engine side, just like the left.
This is the floor pan section sitting in place, after drilling for plug welds and applying Weld-Thru to the underside. No point in priming/painting the topside yet, it'll just burn around the plug welds
I also drilled (8) 5/16" holes for plug welds in the cab mount vertical flanges. Next session, I'll weld it in, then weld the floor pan to it.
I've done some reading and there is a lot of discussion and very little consensus as to whether one may use Ospho before POR-15. I'm considering just putting the POR-15 on the floor after sanding with 40 grit discs. It is supposed to adhere well to the "tooth" that rust or coarse sanding scratches give. And this section is under and behind the seat...
Floor pan welded to original floor and to cab mount flanges. After the seam sealer cures, I'll prime and spray it Ford Holly Green.
I put four plug welds in the forward flange of the cab mount. The other four are going to have to be done underneath with my clumsy left hand, just like the left side was. Meanwhile it's sitting on the bushing until I drill the through-hole in the mount and install the bolt.
More work on the truck... got the new floor section seam-sealed, primed and painted. Made the last four plug welds - they look like crap from the awkward angle, ducking showers of welding sparks, and using my uncoordinated left hand... but it's hidden unless you get under and look up 😉 Then I spent the afternoon making sheet metal patches for the radiator support area (mostly behind and below the headlight bucket). This was fun to cut out and patch!
Radiator support nearly detached on this side, too.
A closeup to remind me where to put the mounting hole once new metal is welded in
Patched and sealed, ready to prime and paint
The finished repair. I may undercoat the part that's exposed in the wheel well.
The repair after seam sealer/prime/paint. Now I have to do the rest of the floor... or get carpet At least I'll bead-blast and paint the battery compartment door.
Next session I should be putting the inner fender, outer fender and door back on!
A real storm with high winds and about 2" of rain went through while I was out there. It's LOUD in a 30x40' building with a tin roof! Figured I might as well keep working since I'd get soaked running for the house anyhow...
Another afternoon in the shop... I removed the seat belts from the floor, MIG filled some holes drilled by a previous owner, sanded with 40 grit on a DA, wiped down with grease/wax remover, and primered the original cab floors (from my new metal to the back). I used a decent quality 2" brush and just painted the primer on. The brush strokes laid down flat (and this will all be under the carpet anyway). Once it's cured I'll use a 4" roller to put the satin black topcoat on.
I also remounted the door. Got lucky with the alignment so I wasn't jigging it this way and jogging it that way for an hour this time! Also bolted up the inner fender.
Then I had to stop to bead-blast, prime and spray paint the battery compartment cover and all the little brackets that hold various devices to the inner fender. Finally I glued the new weatherstrip to the outer fender, lifted it into place... and decided I'd had enough for one day. Five hours of continuous work just wears me out any more.
No exciting pics today I got the outer fender installed and lined up, drilled the hole in the new cab mount for the through-bolt and donut pad, changed the oil (black as midnight but not sludgy) and filter, put the wheel back on and set the truck on the ground. I decided to wait until tomorrow to paint over the primer on the cab floor, although it feels cured to my fingertips.
Now the waiting game starts - when will the upholstery shop start on my seat, and how long will it take him...
Today I painted the original parts of the cab floor Rustoleum black with a 4" roller, 3/8" nap, over the red Rusty Metal Primer I brushed on two days ago.
Found the other half of the steering column/firewall seal plate, half of which was rust. So I welded in some .032 steel, primed and painted it. Re-mounted the a/c receiver dryer, heater hose bracket, and horn relay to the right inner fender.
Also collected all the rust and steel fragments from each side. It's quite a pile. Installation was not the reverse of disassembly
Left side:
Right side:
It took over three months for the local upholstery guy to get the material he allegedly ordered (and I was away until the end of Sept. anyway). I FINALLY got the seat that I dropped off in June returned a couple weeks ago. New foam, green vinyl and a lighter green cloth where the driver and passenger sit. $350 total.
The seat does look nice but it's already getting dog hair (despite a shipping blanket) and lumber mill mud on the new carpet. Oh well, it's a working truck not a show winner!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
It's 3M Brushable Seam Sealer. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40067208/
Fortunately, Carolina Classics has good ones (original heavy-gauge).
And this section is under and behind the seat...
At least I'll bead-blast and paint the battery compartment door.
