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I got my '65 F-350 truck 20 years ago and it wasn't (quite) this bad, so I just stuck a piece of mud flap over the hole and kept driving it. But this year the driver's door won't shut any more unless it is lifted at the outer corner... which takes too much force to do from the seat! The bottom of the jamb (hinge side) has completely rusted away and it's sagging.
Anyhow it's time for some body work. LMC appears to have the panels, although they only list '61-'66 F100 and F250. I believe the cab is the same as '61-'64 parts, since it has the "step" inside the door. The flat floor should be relatively easy. But the fender, which hasn't been off in 56 years, is likely to present some challenges. Any helpful hints? Thanks.
Source the patch panels from Carolina Classics. Their metal is same gauge as original. The patches from LMC are generally much thinner making welding difficult. Flashback F100s may be able to supply you with patches from an original parted out cab if you give them a call. Good luck
This afternoon I was able to remove the left fender and the door from my truck. Bolts that have been in place for 56 years are sometimes reluctant to unscrew... 😏
Automotive rust is always worse than it appears from the outside - although this really isn't terrible and I can fix it. I think. I'm going to have to remove a little more of the boxed pillar to get inside and repair the recessed bracket that helps hold the bottom hinge. The rest is fairly straightforward once I have the repair parts in hand... cut and fit sheetmetal, weld in place, repeat ad nauseam.
I also plan to buy a spot weld cutter since I'm sure I will need it soon enough Probably this one, a Blair 11096, it seems to have very good reviews both on Amazon and on other sites.
I got the spot weld cutter set and started working... I'm almost down to healthy metal, but (of course) keep finding parts I thought weren't rusty. The lower cowl panel will need to be replaced since it has compound curves I don't feel like attempting. Fortunately, Carolina Classics sells those too.
The cab mount, floor pan and the lower door jamb that I ordered from CC should be arriving tomorrow, if UPS tracking is to be believed... I also bought some .050 galvanized sheet steel for patching straight areas (like the completely missing section from the lower hinge support).
Rust is an insidious foe. Nice progress - it doesn’t have to be perfect looking, as long as you get to good metal. I have been impressed by the quality of the CC patches. I made all mine from sheet metal for the lower front A pillar areas; took forever - then saw CC was reproducing that area after the fact. Would have saved me many many hours. Keep at it and good luck
It definitely helps! But I'm disappointed that the cutter doesn't last longer (especially at the price for the arbor and set of 3, which was $46). I've already dulled one and only done about 20 holes in that tough steel. (Yes, I kept the RPM down as instructed)...
The cab mount, left floor pan and lower jamb curve came this afternoon. I am debating whether to remove the entire left pan, or just cut down the new one to replace the missing section in the photos above. I would have to remove the center hump and the bench seat, and more cutting of spot welds, sheet steel or both. But then I wouldn't have to worry about sealing the seam where the ribbed areas are... although with some overlap and seam sealer it should be tight.
It definitely helps! But I'm disappointed that the cutter doesn't last longer (especially at the price for the arbor and set of 3, which was $46). I've already dulled one and only done about 20 holes in that tough steel. (Yes, I kept the RPM down as instructed)...
I picked mine up at O'Reillys for $10 I think with 1 arbor and 2 blades when we did my daugther's focus. I only used the one blade for all of the cuts, but I venture to say the metal on our trucks is a lot higher quality than that of an 09 Focus.
It definitely helps! But I'm disappointed that the cutter doesn't last longer (especially at the price for the arbor and set of 3, which was $46). I've already dulled one and only done about 20 holes in that tough steel. (Yes, I kept the RPM down as instructed)...
The cab mount, left floor pan and lower jamb curve came this afternoon. I am debating whether to remove the entire left pan, or just cut down the new one to replace the missing section in the photos above. I would have to remove the center hump and the bench seat, and more cutting of spot welds, sheet steel or both. But then I wouldn't have to worry about sealing the seam where the ribbed areas are... although with some overlap and seam sealer it should be tight.
Either way it will outlast me
That is how I am going to do mine, just sections of the floor. I will also replace a portion of my cab mounts since just the lowest part was eaten by the rust.
Remember, rust is always worse than it looks from the outside. I would pay careful attention to that complex area where the cab mount meets the bottom of the A-pillar. How deep does that hole go (in the first picture)?
Everything I read said not to bother with the $10 sets because they won't last any time at all... so I bought the top-reviewed US-made set for $46. Maybe some of it's operator error, but I agree there's a lot more steel to cut through!
Any thoughts on my floor - I am concerned about making a good join since the cut passes across the ribbed section. Maybe I'll butt-weld that end of the pan? Or can a lap joint be used by lining up the ribs?
I'm proceeding slowly and carefully... would rather not cut something and have to put it back together! I removed a bit more steel and actually welded in a patch of 16-ga on the inside wall of the A-pillar. My welds look like hemorrhoids but they appear to be holding.
I also started to fit the new cab mount and discovered it doesn't clear the ears on the original saddle mount. Rick at CC confirmed that I need to remove the saddle for them to fit. I have his '61-64 (donut style) cab pad kit on the way - he tells me no one is making the original saddle pads (and the cab mounts won't fit them anyway). I hope the four small holes on the saddle lead to spot welds so I can just use a drill instead of wearing out my $ spot-weld cutter...
The lower cowl panels and the cab mounting kit came today... but I haven't progressed far enough to need them. Today was mostly spent on the front and outside of the A-pillar, which took quite some time to patch and weld.
After some more patching and welding:
I still have to do the inside cab wall before starting on the cab mount and floor pan. From what I can see of the remaining metal, I think that piece goes all the way to the bottom of the cab mount (closing off both the bottom of the A-pillar and the inside of the cab mount. Can anyone confirm this?
I also burned a big hole in the leg of my coveralls (but fortunately not in my leg) while grinding a piece of sheet metal in my lap Ran out of MIG welding gas about then, too (I do have another full bottle) so it was a good time to quit!
The worst part is that the other side, although not as bad, is also rusty in the same places. Someday I will have to do this all over again!
Progressing slowly but steadily... It's getting there, but fitting partial floor pans and making patches for butt-welding is a pain in the butt!
And there was more of the firewall gone than I'd expected, so that will be another patch. Probably will lap-joint and plugweld that - no one will ever see it under the carpet or floor mat anyhow, and I'll use plenty of seam sealer and 3M Weld-Thru II there too...
I got tired and stopped for the evening before making the final three plug welds at the bottom seam where the A-pillar meets the step. I plan to weld the cab mount on separately, rather than trying to join three pieces at once...
Last edited by DrCharles; Apr 17, 2021 at 07:56 PM.
Probably this one, a Blair 11096, it seems to have very good reviews both on Amazon and on other sites.
