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Old Apr 9, 2021 | 05:54 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by coax9952
Be careful with that, those look a little "Melded" to me, actually, That whole bundle right there looks toasty, don't pull anything apart until you're ready to start patching right away...… I suggest going and getting a bottle of liquid tape before you separate any of those wires...…

and a roll of 3M 33 at the ready also for that matter.
The wires actually seem pliable but they were wrapped with some weird material. It reminded me of grip tape for a weight lifting bar or like bandage or old broke down duct tape.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2021 | 06:12 PM
  #32  
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Another Fine 3M product...… it's asphalt coated cloth tape, used on almost all wire looms made since forever ago, but it does not work again after removal. hence the 33 Black electricians tape. And the section that feels 'Pliable" at that spot probably won't be 6" down from there. We're talking about 20+ some odd years of Heat cycles, It will literally come apart in your hands... FYI
 
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Old Apr 9, 2021 | 06:15 PM
  #33  
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Again im not at a computer but thought that one wire was ground, one 5 volt, and one feedback to the pcm? Might want to check continuity to the 42 pin connector before tearing apart

that material may be water proof heat shrink
 
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Old Apr 9, 2021 | 06:22 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by AllaboutMPG
Again im not at a computer but thought that one wire was ground, one 5 volt, and one feedback to the pcm? Might want to check continuity to the 42 pin connector before tearing apart

that material may be water proof heat shrink
Yeah, What he said, I'm still at work so no access to my Bible....
 
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Old Apr 9, 2021 | 06:27 PM
  #35  
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Have you tried putting the old icp back in just too see what happens?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2021 | 06:36 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by AllaboutMPG
Have you tried putting the old icp back in just too see what happens?
I honestly dont know if I still have the old icp. I moved and had the truck towed 2.5hrs. To my new home. I replaced the icp at the old house. Truck has never run except for about 30 sec. The other day with the new icp.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2021 | 08:34 PM
  #37  
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Did you get a chance to look at the 42 pin connector harness where it crosses the driver's side valve cover?
 
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Old Apr 9, 2021 | 09:24 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by AllaboutMPG
Did you get a chance to look at the 42 pin connector harness where it crosses the driver's side valve cover?
I didn't today but I've looked at it before and didn't see anything alarming. I'll recheck Sunday when I get back in town.

You think that would be why the icp pigtail is not reading.like its supposed to? Did yo see the pics I posted?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2021 | 02:29 AM
  #39  
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I think the ICP and EOT wire colors match the wiring diagram, but since they are spliced into the harness further back you'd be wise to cut back into the harness and make sure they were spliced onto the correct wires. Hit the connectors with some contact cleaner or brake clean, skank there does not help.

Here's a decent diagram from the Tech Folder to help with the wire weirdness. What it calls the Injector Control Sensor is really the Injector Control Regulator, but whatev.

Well backburner the above for now; I'd start by monitoring sensors (not AE, obsolete and expensive). Watching the numbers will tell you if those sensors are working. Need Forscan, Torque Pro or similar app and a bluetooth OBD2 dongle. Lots out there find advice on FTE.

For the 42 pin harness inspect the underside where the wires can rub on the valve cover.


 
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Old Apr 10, 2021 | 08:04 AM
  #40  
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Below is some information on FORScan taken from the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder that should get you pointed in the right direction. The Q&A written by BWST and the instructions for your preferred device are where I would suggest you start. TorquePro is pretty and works fairly well, but FORScan or FORScan Lite works every time and is much more powerful as a diagnostic tool than TorquePro. At least in my opinion.

FORScan
 
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Old Apr 22, 2021 | 07:43 PM
  #41  
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I had a few min. Today and checked PCM and dont have a chip. Although it looks like it has been chipped before. I still dont have 12v to the icp pigtail. I checked the 42 pin Male side today for 12v on the icp pin and dont have voltage there either. How do I check for continuity throughout the entire 42pin connector?
 
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Old Apr 22, 2021 | 10:34 PM
  #42  
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I am not at my laptop right now, so I cannot verify this, but isn't the ICP sensor in the 5v reference circuit? If so, you should not expect to see 12v at the sensor connector/pigtail.

As for testing the 42 pin connector, that depends on which direction you want to test. Toward the engine harness or toward the IDM/PCM. FYI, back probing is a preferred method especially when checking male pins in a connector.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 09:08 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Sous
I am not at my laptop right now, so I cannot verify this, but isn't the ICP sensor in the 5v reference circuit? If so, you should not expect to see 12v at the sensor connector/pigtail.

As for testing the 42 pin connector, that depends on which direction you want to test. Toward the engine harness or toward the IDM/PCM. FYI, back probing is a preferred method especially when checking male pins in a connector.
I thought the icp had a 5v, 12v, and a ground.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 09:37 AM
  #44  
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I found this in the Tech Folder. The ICP Sensor uses the 5V VRef. The Tech Folder also contains ICP Sensor Pinpoint Tests which answers many of your questions.
 

Last edited by FordTruckNoob; Apr 23, 2021 at 09:40 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2021 | 10:07 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by powerstrokeN1
I thought the icp had a 5v, 12v, and a ground.
Perhaps, but that is why I wrote that I was not sure and would need to check when I had access to the laptop. Thanks to FordTruckNoob, you should have all of the answers to your questions available to you now.

Keep us updated.
 
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