T5 transmission
Thanks in advance
Best of luck,
B
Best resources:
https://lugnutz65chevystepside.weebl...info-page.html
https://www.moderndriveline.com/ever...-5-five-speed/
World-Class transmissions are generally thought to be preferable (better synchros, possibility to change to a Mustang V8 gears etc.)
Note that "World-class" is really more of a marketing term rather than a quality denominator. I would argue, though, that the 3-part synchros in the WC are better than the single brass synchros in the non-WC (driving style makes a lot of difference)
With the earlier non-WC S10 transmissions (or any that use the "Chevy" mounting pattern), there are plenty of adapter plates (available at Speedway etc); for the Ford bolt pattern there is an adapter kit from Cornhuskers, which I bought but am not using as I changed from the Flathead to a SBF on my build.
If.you find a T5 with a Ford bolt pattern, let me know. I have no use for the adapter kit anymore, and would happily part with it for postage/freight costs only.
One thing to consider is the the total driveline ratio. The S10 first gear is rather tall, since they were designed for relatively low-powered trucks. Depending on your rear axle ratio, first gear might be useless (or you can still pull stumps if that is your thing).
The later S10 T5 was meant to use behind 4-cyl engines. With normal driving it should be ok behind a V8.
The older S10 T5s are for v6 but non-WC, which may or may not better in your context.
Max torque on all these is the same, higher torque ratings need WC V8 gear sets (which requires a WC case)
For any T5 that you find it is important to check/know the tag number. Best resource I found for this:
Identification Key to Borg-Warner T5 transmission ID Tags
Finally, regardless of which model you end up with, here are some items that have to be considered:
- input shaft length (see articles I linked)
- input shaft diameter and spline count (determines clutch disc)
- input shaft pilot pin size/pilot bearing
- throwout bearing diameter (depends on input shaft diameter)
- total gear ratio (rear axle ratio)
- output shaft spline count (to determine needed driveshaft yoke)
Hope this helps
Dre
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I replaced the S10 shifter with a Hurst shifter and stick (a bit too short for me, but useable), but you can also modify the S10 shifter to accept other sticks.
This is the position my shifter ended up. Seat is a replacement (rear bench from a Mitsubishi Outlander) , but in the same position height as the original seat:
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I did cut out the original transmission crossmember and added an off-the-shelf one as the mount moves backward by about 6 inches as well.
https://www.performanceonline.com/19...n-Crossmember/
This mount worked ok, but I had to add a spacer to the transmission, in my case for driveline alignment.
Unfortunately, I did not take pictures in the process, and my T5 is currently out for rebuild (noticed on the first drive that 2nd gear/synchros were gone)
If you do cut out the original crossmember, make sure to brace the frame, so it doesn't bend outward.
If you have a brake booster it might be a tight fit to get the crossmember bolted in (see member tonyguns solution in his build where it interfered).
I did not have that problem, but I didn't have much leeway either.
For a reference, I do not have the world class T-5. I have the original V-8 with an 080 over-bore. Nothing else fancy.
I have about 20,000k miles and tranny seems just fine. No towing, no heavy loads. Truck is a daily driver, mostly City, but I go on Hwy some. Ford 9-inch rear end.
Lovin' it.
If you decide to upgrade to a World Class T5 later, the tailhousing on yours can be fitted to that, that is what I have done. Although, the WC T5 isn't super beefy either.
Thanks,
Jordan









