Dealer Installed Electronic Locking Dif
I have them, front and rear in my 2001 Dodge Cummins H.O. 6-speed manual hauling a truck camper. They are transparent, seamless, and both wheels will pull if the there is no difference between wheel speed or resistance. This is likely the same environment you will get on sand. Plus they are one of the least expensive L.S.'s on the market.
For me it's a no-brainer.
I have used almost every traction device known to the 4WD community except the Gov Loc and Ox Locker.
The electronic Eaton full locker came stock on my new Ford F-350's M-275-36 spline rear axle and am going to install the True Trac in the M-256-35 spline front axle. There is almost no resistance on the steering when the hubs are on and not in 4WD. I have also installed the True Trac in my 1999 Jeep XJ not-so-grand Cherokee's front D-30 axle. It works great.
You might consider just leaving the rear axle alone and instead installing a True Trac on the front axle, since they make one that fits. This could save you a lot of cash.
The best defense on sand, no matter what locker, L.S., or open diff you have is a having a couple tire pressure gauges and a high quality, clamp on battery, 12v air compressor. Expect to pay $200-300 for a high duty rated model. Cheap no-stick-in-sand insurance.
jefe
On the left: True Trac for my '99 XJ's Dana 30 front axle. On the right: True Trac for my Dodge Dana 60 front axle. They are trouble free and sturdy.
For the 10.5 I believe the tru-trac is most popular aftermarket.
For the dana 275 I think the factory elocker or Eaton is best aftermarket if available.
For the dana 300 drw I believe a factory limited slip is what most people use.
Having said all that, seems to me that axles are going for around $3k these days. So a TrueTrac installation would still cost less.
I have them, front and rear in my 2001 Dodge Cummins H.O. 6-speed manual hauling a truck camper. They are transparent, seamless, and both wheels will pull if the there is no difference between wheel speed or resistance. This is likely the same environment you will get on sand. Plus they are one of the least expensive L.S.'s on the market.
For me it's a no-brainer.
I have used almost every traction device known to the 4WD community except the Gov Loc and Ox Locker.
The electronic Eaton full locker came stock on my new Ford F-350's M-275-36 spline rear axle and am going to install the True Trac in the M-256-35 spline front axle. There is almost no resistance on the steering when the hubs are on and not in 4WD. I have also installed the True Trac in my 1999 Jeep XJ not-so-grand Cherokee's front D-30 axle. It works great.
You might consider just leaving the rear axle alone and instead installing a True Trac on the front axle, since they make one that fits. This could save you a lot of cash.
The best defense on sand, no matter what locker, L.S., or open diff you have is a having a couple tire pressure gauges and a high quality, clamp on battery, 12v air compressor. Expect to pay $200-300 for a high duty rated model. Cheap no-stick-in-sand insurance.
jefe
On the left: True Trac for my '99 XJ's Dana 30 front axle. On the right: True Trac for my Dodge Dana 60 front axle. They are trouble free and sturdy.
Not only save you cash, my guess would make the rig more capable. That's my plan.
The best defense on sand, no matter what locker, L.S., or open diff you have is a having a couple tire pressure gauges and a high quality,
Yes, air down on sand is the best. But you need to be able to air up.
There's another thread in the forum that claims you can't air down 1 PSI from the listed values.
I've got 3 Jeeps, two with air lockers (factory on my TJR) and ARB on my LJR with Dana60 front/ Dana 80 rear). My JLR had factory e-lockers. I'm getting a F-600 4x4 to carry my LJR and I'm living with the LSD in the rear. I hope the parking brake trick I used years ago on LSD works on the F-600. I plan on getting a LSD in the front or possibly an e-locker if available.
I have them, front and rear in my 2001 Dodge Cummins H.O. 6-speed manual hauling a truck camper. They are transparent, seamless, and both wheels will pull if the there is no difference between wheel speed or resistance. This is likely the same environment you will get on sand. Plus they are one of the least expensive L.S.'s on the market.
For me it's a no-brainer.
I have used almost every traction device known to the 4WD community except the Gov Loc and Ox Locker.
The electronic Eaton full locker came stock on my new Ford F-350's M-275-36 spline rear axle and am going to install the True Trac in the M-256-35 spline front axle. There is almost no resistance on the steering when the hubs are on and not in 4WD. I have also installed the True Trac in my 1999 Jeep XJ not-so-grand Cherokee's front D-30 axle. It works great.
You might consider just leaving the rear axle alone and instead installing a True Trac on the front axle, since they make one that fits. This could save you a lot of cash.
The best defense on sand, no matter what locker, L.S., or open diff you have is a having a couple tire pressure gauges and a high quality, clamp on battery, 12v air compressor. Expect to pay $200-300 for a high duty rated model. Cheap no-stick-in-sand insurance.
jefe
On the left: True Trac for my '99 XJ's Dana 30 front axle. On the right: True Trac for my Dodge Dana 60 front axle. They are trouble free and sturdy.
So you'd replace the factory LSD with the eaton? Any idea what a ball park cost to get front/rear eaton LSD on a F-600?
LSD's on Jeeps are far superior to open diffs, but far inferior (at least in rock crawling) to a true locker. My F-600 won't be a rock crawler but it will occasionally need to assist in recovery efforts and I will be pulling my 25' travel trailer to off road dry camping spots, including beaches.
In the pic below I test the idea of carrying my Jeep in something close to a F-600 4x4.












