Radiator differences
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2020
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Radiator differences
The radiator in my 86 has been successfully held together by stopleak for a year or so, after it began weeping there the core meets the top tank/cap deal. I happened to come across a good/used radiator from a newer model, and picked it up. The only functional difference appears to be that the new radiator is provisioned for an oil/transmission cooler, where my rig has none.
My radiator is all metal - top and bottom caps (inlet/outlet tanks? I don't know the technical term). New radiator seems like plastic on the top and bottom. Also, seems the core might be a different metal?
As in, the 86 looks like...patina all over, including the core. The "new" one looks like a shiny core with black plastic ends. I'm not saying the caps are definitely plastic, it just looks that way.
My radiator is all metal - top and bottom caps (inlet/outlet tanks? I don't know the technical term). New radiator seems like plastic on the top and bottom. Also, seems the core might be a different metal?
As in, the 86 looks like...patina all over, including the core. The "new" one looks like a shiny core with black plastic ends. I'm not saying the caps are definitely plastic, it just looks that way.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,036
Likes: 5
That's just the newer replacement style, plastic tanks and an aluminum core. I don't like those styles, they don't last
You can take your old rad to a radiator shop and they'll pressure test it and solder any leaks for usually around $75
You can take your old rad to a radiator shop and they'll pressure test it and solder any leaks for usually around $75
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
The radiator in my 86 has been successfully held together by stopleak for a year or so, after it began weeping there the core meets the top tank/cap deal. I happened to come across a good/used radiator from a newer model, and picked it up. The only functional difference appears to be that the new radiator is provisioned for an oil/transmission cooler, where my rig has none.
My radiator is all metal - top and bottom caps (inlet/outlet tanks? I don't know the technical term). New radiator seems like plastic on the top and bottom. Also, seems the core might be a different metal?
As in, the 86 looks like...patina all over, including the core. The "new" one looks like a shiny core with black plastic ends. I'm not saying the caps are definitely plastic, it just looks that way.
My radiator is all metal - top and bottom caps (inlet/outlet tanks? I don't know the technical term). New radiator seems like plastic on the top and bottom. Also, seems the core might be a different metal?
As in, the 86 looks like...patina all over, including the core. The "new" one looks like a shiny core with black plastic ends. I'm not saying the caps are definitely plastic, it just looks that way.
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 25
I have been hearing the 4 core Champ ain't so good, I'm told the 3 core Champ is the better choice.
it don't make sense to me either as Champion claims the 4 core will dissipate more BTU's
BUT I get that it might be overkill..... https://championcooling.wordpress.co...four-row-core/
Personally down here in South Texas I don't think Over kill is an issue
EDIT: ya might read this too https://www.oilburners.net/threads/c...diators.83380/
it don't make sense to me either as Champion claims the 4 core will dissipate more BTU's
BUT I get that it might be overkill..... https://championcooling.wordpress.co...four-row-core/
Personally down here in South Texas I don't think Over kill is an issue
EDIT: ya might read this too https://www.oilburners.net/threads/c...diators.83380/
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,928
Likes: 1,199
From: Mojave, Ca
I purchased a 3 core champion aluminum radiator for my 1994 ford f350 idi and immediately noticed an increase in my coolant temperature. After driving it around for 2 years, I drove up a steep grade and my engine got uncomfortably hot. So the next day I took my old leaking brass radiator to the local radiator shop and had them overhaul it. I think it was about $150 to have them desolder the tanks, clean out the core, resolder the tanks and repaint it. After i got it installed in the truck, the hi coolant temp problem was immediately resolved. I definately recommend have your old radiator overhauled.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,036
Likes: 5
I purchased a 3 core champion aluminum radiator for my 1994 ford f350 idi and immediately noticed an increase in my coolant temperature. After driving it around for 2 years, I drove up a steep grade and my engine got uncomfortably hot. So the next day I took my old leaking brass radiator to the local radiator shop and had them overhaul it. I think it was about $150 to have them desolder the tanks, clean out the core, resolder the tanks and repaint it. After i got it installed in the truck, the hi coolant temp problem was immediately resolved. I definately recommend have your old radiator overhauled.
Glad I stuck with stock. I have a couple spares I need to go get cleaned and resealed as the cores were fine temp wise anyways.
Thanks for putting your experience in. Threads that have updates or other opinions is always nice.
I wonder if the name brand misimoto radiators actually work better than oem...seems they should use alot better quality of aluminum.
Elder User
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 695
Likes: 22
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