So am re-assembling all the bolt ons to a 7.3 IDI non turbo 1989 block which I sent to a good shop for a rebuild. I am at the stage of dealing with the install of the injection pump and drive gear. Using a mirror and light I wanted to double check the position of the timing mark on the cam gear to the injection pump gear. The timing mark on the injection pump drive gear has the "y" for the timing mark, however the camshaft drive gear has a different timing mark. The timing mark on the camshaft gear is a line not the "Y" but a distinct line as part of the casting or milling . The camshaft gear timing mark is in the correct position yet my concern is should I be worried about the different timing mark? Is it possible that I may have to turn the crank by hand to make sure that that is the timing mark? Is it possible that there are different timing marks than indicated in the factory blue book manuals? I am being concerned over nothing? Forgive my paranoia but this is the time to make sure it all goes back together correctly. All replies are greatly appreciated and welcome.

 

On exhaust tdc the cam should have a dot, and on tdc of the power stroke it should have a y

I use a pick to reach in there and line em up my feel.

One y is on a tooth, one is in-between two teeth

 

Y to Y dot to dot .... maybe your line you see is a badly stamped Y

http://www.blackwire.com/~bjordan/Te....3_IDI_101.pdf

 

Nothing like leading the poor guy down the wrong road with misinformation. Like Dark Over Cast stated correctly, it is Y to O. And since it's almost impossible to see the marks, the cleverest trick a guy came up with is to count an equal number of teeth up from both sides of the gear from the mark to its center or slightly above, then scribe a line across the gear from the counted tooth on one side to the counted tooth on the other. Then if that line is perfectly straight with the top edge of the timing cover you'll have O mated to Y on the gears if you have the crankshaft at TDC firing stroke on #1 cylinder.

 

The marks go y to y as lonewolf stated.

 

DOC never said Y to DOT ... he stated if TDC is not on Compression then DOT is UP and IF TDC is on Compression Y is up on the Cam Gear.

it's the same thing with that guy all the time ... always negative SMH

 

You're right, I mis-remembered like the politicians say. Should have drug out a manual instead of relying on memory.

 

So the IP gear has a y on it and the one just below that has a dot? Are they also on the front and rear of the gears? If so i can find mine w a mirror.

 

the cam Gear has a DOT and a Y that are 180 opposite of each other ... the pump gear only has a Y on it... What DOC posted is correct and what I posted is correct.

 

Just a clear this up for anyone in the future I'll give my short crash course on how to time an idi with a couple different methods.

Step 1. I rotate the crank to zero down on the balancer. This means #1 cylinder is on top dead center. There are however two two top dead centers, compression/powerstroke, or exhaust. But don't worry about that just yet.

Step 2. If you have really good feel in your hands and a small enough pick you can feel if it's either a Y or a Dot so you know what stroke you're on.

You can also use a small mirror but I had to get real close to see it. You can then mark the gear with a paint pen if you want and the same on your IP gear so lining them up is easier.

Step 3. If you saw or felt a Y, you have the crank set right. If it's a dot go back to the balancer and rotate it again to zero and the Y will be up. DOUBLE CHECK UP TOP NOW

Step 4. Clean the **** out of the block and timing cover. I've had almost no luck getting these things to seal. I've tried all kinds of silicones. The last stuff I used was a permatex gear oil silicone that was real thick stuff. So far no leaks.

Step 5. Put the gear in place Y to Y and double/triple check it, then apply your choice of sealant to the cover and slide it over the gear and torque it down.

Step 6. Reinstall your pump. No way to mess up after this really.

And to answer that guys question, the marks are only on the outside. The dot is for aligning the cam to crank, and there's not a dot on the IP gear.

There are other method out there to mark the degrees of the gear, but to me the mirror and a paint pen are the easiest. The pick method never let me down until last time, and I ended up 180 out but it ran, with about 50hp

Had done it at least a dozen times with the pick before that, but the mirror method seemed to be the most solid, because you know FOR SURE, well as sure as your eyes anyways.

 

 

much appreciated. Yeah, i ended up having to tear down the front of the motor to expose the gears. Didnt want to make any mistakes while doing the timing. Plus like you said, its damn near impossible to get that front plate to seal 100%. You always end up with a leak out a bolt hole or something. The trick i learned was using stricktly black gasket maker along with the paper/rubber gaskets they sell in a set. I havent had any leaks especially when putting the gasket maker in each bolt hole to seal those too. My problem is a single click no start. New solenoid, starter (brand new from factory not remaned), 2 new 950 cca batteries. So big i had to notch out the inside of the hood for my specialty battery terminal multipliers. Best thing ever. They come in 3 and 5 post terminals. Made by kat5 or tackle warehouse online. Or ebay of course. I have a push start button in my f350 with a 7.3 idi. The only reason that is in there is because of the actuator rod that ALWAYS pops out of gear on that small piece of a gear that turns it when u turn the key. I did replace the actuator but just like the rear window locks, they were never meant to work right. Im at the point that i am about to post it for sale. New IP, new starter, new solenoid, new batteries....here this would be easier...the ONLY things not brand new on this is the wiring harnesses, the piston rings, and the camshaft (or crankshaft, i always confuse the 2). I even spent 90.00 on 20 foot of 2/0 braided solid copper wiring. Not that aluminum copper coated stuff actual copper welding lead wire. So i know 100% that power is flowing. Only thing i can think to do is to redo the entire fuse box by buying a fuse block or 3 and slowly start switching everything to that. This has been a restoration project but also my daily driver. Week 3 of it sitting in the driveway, not moving, is coming to a close and no closer to getting it started. I also did vacuum all the air out of the lines with my mighty vac. I also have an aftermarket holley electric diesel fuel pump mounted on the frame. 7 to 14 psi it says. Any help would be great.