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yeah same deal with my 93 ... I really need to replace the radiator as I have a Bad Xmsn cooler in it and none of the shops in my area are willing to even touch it.
Basically 83-94....
I had it re cored about 10 years ago, but most shops Here cannot even get new cores for them anymore.
lots of folks have recommended the Champion Radiator... they make a 3 and 4 core... it's my understanding the 3 core is better as there have been complaints about the 4 core failing.
all things aside.... as far as aftermarket radiators go (and most if not all are made in China) I think I would choose the Champion over the others that I've seen..
I did look into them pretty extensively and radiators in general and I think a 3 core Aluminum is probably more efficient than a 4 core Copper/Brass
I did post a bit on them in these forums but didn't get much response.
BUT I will say your coolant better be monitored pretty well IF you go Aluminum, and you might want to use some Ground straps on it.
that's a Fair Price, it's right in line with my Pull-A-Part down here.
I wouldn't change the heater core just because you want to match it, it won't act as an Anode but the Radiator will.
Just to add to this ... I bet you wouldn't change the Brass Oil Cooler
But if you notice a lot of Galvanic action happens to those Aluminum Housings ..... just Maintain your Coolant and no issues
Well I'd change the oil cooler if I had too...obviously not my preferred swap as I'm trying to keep this as cheap as possible. I've already ordered a lot of parts that are going in this Saturday.
Forgive the noob question...does the oil cooler cycle coolant too then? And by keeping up on coolant...do you mean just changing it on schedule?
what I mean by maintaining the Coolant is Supplemental Coolant Additives (SCAs) The levels in the cooling system need to be monitored on a regular basis for optimal performance.
it depends on what coolant you use as to how you monitor different companies use similar but sometimes different methods ...Test strips are generally used.
Also never add Tap Water... de-ionized water is best, Distilled is what most use and is fine.
Okay, yea...keeping up on coolant...I did a lot of reading when I was buying the truck and ordered some test strips before I even got the truck...got the 50 pack bottle before I realized I wouldn't need that many...and that they expire in a year.
I'm planning on running Final Charge Global after I get my new radiator in. Some gasser knowledge I've gleaned carries over to these beasts...I've never used tap water in any cooling system but thanks for the reminder.
I'm trying to understand the Oil Flow diagram...so the oil is actually cooled by cycling around the heat exchanger tubes...I'm assuming these are in the "oil cooler" from the diagram cause I don't see anything labeled "heat exchanger tubes" like it says in the text description.
So the coolant is running through tubes in the middle of the oil cooler...and these tubes are brass? So you're saying if I was really concerned about a reaction those should be changed too?
So the brass/copper/aluminum combination isn't really a cause for concern? Or it is, but only in the radiator?
Thanks for walking me through understanding this...of course at this point it's just for knowledge as I already bought the radiator from the junkyard.