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It adds anywhere from $3-4 on a $60-70 fill up for a heavy dose of PS white or grey bottle. You'd have to be going through a damn lot of fuel to make that add up to any amount of money you'd miss. Anybody pinching pennies and bean counting that hard would have realized how much cheaper running a gasser would have been and bought that instead lol.
Ah yeah some people don’t care about spending an extra few bucks. My ex would buy the finest cheese, meat, pasta, sauce and $100 later we would have a decent meal. I get the brown meat sale special, off brand walmart sauce, whichever noodles are on sale and a 33 cent can of paste. Different strokes for different folks.
With that said Standyne is good for antigel and I like the little extra pep and peace of mind of keeping water in the seperator. And good thing as this 6.7 was my only vehicle i had last week. I would recommend running it while towing long distances.
I would drop down to a 5W30 in winter if you live in an area that gets down to 0 or worse regularly. (As long as the owners manual says it's okay.) 40 weight with thicken up worse and have a harder time doing it's job unless the motor is being run hard enough to keep it at full operating temp, which at those ambient temps is not easy. They aren't as common as 5W40 or 10W30 but there are a few that are CK-4 diesel rated.
...DPF regen status so you don't shut a hot truck down or in the middle of a regen.
Would it actually hurt anything to shut it down in the middle of a regen? If so, I’d think that Ford would have set up something to keep this from happening, or at least some type of warning that notifies you that by doing so you are proceeding at your own risk. My thought is that, (1) since my $76,000 truck doesn’t notify me that this might be an issue, and (2) I purchased a long, high miles extended warranty, I probably won’t be on the hook for any repairs that might be caused by this. Just my $.02 worth.
The truck also doesn't prevent you from shutting off the engine when the turbo is hot. But the manual provides guidance that you should run the engine at idle until the temperature comes down some. I don't recall anything in the manual about not shutting down a regen, but I do try to avoid doing that.
while it is true ford and others have designed the regen to be seamless, They even deleted any and all messages to indicate this information except in certain circumstances.
Just shutting down a hot engine with EGT's around 1K is not my cup of tea.
Wasting all that fuel in the exhaust system to be dumped in the crankcase is not what I like either.
Enough of that and eventually the remaining message will show up telling you to drive to clean though. So yes eventually you will be guided that you need to finish the regen.
In the above pic, I am monitoring EGT 11 and EGT 14. Pre turbo and post DPF.
I also am monitoring coolant temp and oil temps.
Distance since last regen (the 1020 #) and regen status
Soot % and trans temp.
I would drop down to a 5W30 in winter if you live in an area that gets down to 0 or worse regularly. (As long as the owners manual says it's okay.) 40 weight with thicken up worse and have a harder time doing it's job unless the motor is being run hard enough to keep it at full operating temp, which at those ambient temps is not easy. They aren't as common as 5W40 or 10W30 but there are a few that are CK-4 diesel rated.
I don't agree.
5w40 is good to well below zero. 10w30 is good to 10 degrees, at least. And a 40 will be a 40 at operating temp regardless if a 5w, 10w, or 15w.
The pic I posted about monitoring shows a temp of about 199 on coolant and oil. Outside temp at that moment was 20 degrees. The engine will be at full temp controlled by the thermostat and cooling system. The oiling system removes heat from the turbo and dumps it into the cooling system. It would be very hard to be below operating temp when you are cooling a turbo being exposed to hot exhaust with the short runners, 1000 degrees or more most times.
