Cold NO start
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 332
Likes: 42
Cold NO start
I hope all are surviving this cold.
My truck had a hard time starting yesterday afternoon. The truck crank perfect yesterday morning with temps in the 20s, but yesterday afternoon, temps in mid 30s, the truck turned over and would not crank. Aftter attempting to start it a few times, 10 volts with key on, I connected jumper cables and still the engine would not fire up. The engine would turn over but not start up. It seemed like it was not getting fuel or maybe like the glow plugs were no heating up. Fuel pressure gauge showed 55 to 60 psi with key on engine off and while turning the engine over. Once the cables were disconnected the truck sat for a few minutes the truck fired right up. On the 1.5 hour trip home the truck ran great icp was reading 1300 to 1700 at 70 mph, voltage was 13.5 to 14.2, fuel stayed around 50 to 60 psi. Once i got home I stopped and started it 5 times without any issues. This morning, after sitting all night, with the temps in the hi 30s the truck fired right up.
Any ideas?
My truck had a hard time starting yesterday afternoon. The truck crank perfect yesterday morning with temps in the 20s, but yesterday afternoon, temps in mid 30s, the truck turned over and would not crank. Aftter attempting to start it a few times, 10 volts with key on, I connected jumper cables and still the engine would not fire up. The engine would turn over but not start up. It seemed like it was not getting fuel or maybe like the glow plugs were no heating up. Fuel pressure gauge showed 55 to 60 psi with key on engine off and while turning the engine over. Once the cables were disconnected the truck sat for a few minutes the truck fired right up. On the 1.5 hour trip home the truck ran great icp was reading 1300 to 1700 at 70 mph, voltage was 13.5 to 14.2, fuel stayed around 50 to 60 psi. Once i got home I stopped and started it 5 times without any issues. This morning, after sitting all night, with the temps in the hi 30s the truck fired right up.
Any ideas?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 4,673
Likes: 532
From: Houston, Texas
Do you have any codes? Not just the CEL, but subcodes? What was the RPM while cranking when it wouldn't start? It can sound fine and still not get over the 150 needed to start. I'd get the batteries load tested. They can also show voltage but still not have enough cranking amps. The voltage on your gauge is coming from the alternator, so it's good, but doesn't tell you the battery voltage, which you need to start.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 332
Likes: 42
I currently only have a scangauge. The CEL didn't come on so not sure if there are any codes. Unfortunately I didn't monitor the RPMs so not sure what they were at the time. I have a tester and can test the batteries this afternoon after work. I will post the results once I test them.
I am thinking about getting the FORSCAN app, if I can find the diagnostic adapter I will use the app to check for any codes.
I am thinking about getting the FORSCAN app, if I can find the diagnostic adapter I will use the app to check for any codes.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 4,673
Likes: 532
From: Houston, Texas
Scangauge isn't the best code reader - I found that it couldn't get transmission codes - but it was decent on the engine PIDs. Worth a look see. Not sure what kind of tester you have, there are differences, and you can research threads in this forum discussing in detail why "load" testing is best. I can't explain it. Forscan is a great code reader.
I'm just thinking that batteries are your only problem, but I'm Bonehead; I recommend a silo for the appropriate quantity of salt grains you should take that with. But, that's definitely the starting place. I expect you'll see a low battery code - or you would have back then. With the charging, then driving, you've done, it's probably reset. However, if there's no other codes, that could be more evidence that it's just a battery issue.
It could still be the starter - starting to go out and dragging more amps. Your batteries could be borderline good, and the starter just too much of a drain to get the 150rpm you need. Cold weather doesn't help any of these things.
I'm just thinking that batteries are your only problem, but I'm Bonehead; I recommend a silo for the appropriate quantity of salt grains you should take that with. But, that's definitely the starting place. I expect you'll see a low battery code - or you would have back then. With the charging, then driving, you've done, it's probably reset. However, if there's no other codes, that could be more evidence that it's just a battery issue.
It could still be the starter - starting to go out and dragging more amps. Your batteries could be borderline good, and the starter just too much of a drain to get the 150rpm you need. Cold weather doesn't help any of these things.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
Likes: 1,432
From: Millersville, MD
See my thread here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...dows-10-a.html
Batteries STILL suspect. You have to use a vehicle with battery at LEAST as big as the ones in your truck. Hook up and let it charge from the other vehicle. I waiting until the battery on the passenger side was at least up to 13.5 volts. Then have some one run the RPM on the running vehicle run that vehicle up to 2000 RPM then hit the start key in your truck. Wait until the glow plug light goes out then try to start it. DO NOT HIT THE GO PEDAL !
Batteries STILL suspect. You have to use a vehicle with battery at LEAST as big as the ones in your truck. Hook up and let it charge from the other vehicle. I waiting until the battery on the passenger side was at least up to 13.5 volts. Then have some one run the RPM on the running vehicle run that vehicle up to 2000 RPM then hit the start key in your truck. Wait until the glow plug light goes out then try to start it. DO NOT HIT THE GO PEDAL !
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
See my thread here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...dows-10-a.html
Batteries STILL suspect. You have to use a vehicle with battery at LEAST as big as the ones in your truck. Hook up and let it charge from the other vehicle. I waiting until the battery on the passenger side was at least up to 13.5 volts. Then have some one run the RPM on the running vehicle run that vehicle up to 2000 RPM then hit the start key in your truck. Wait until the glow plug light goes out then try to start it. DO NOT HIT THE GO PEDAL !
Batteries STILL suspect. You have to use a vehicle with battery at LEAST as big as the ones in your truck. Hook up and let it charge from the other vehicle. I waiting until the battery on the passenger side was at least up to 13.5 volts. Then have some one run the RPM on the running vehicle run that vehicle up to 2000 RPM then hit the start key in your truck. Wait until the glow plug light goes out then try to start it. DO NOT HIT THE GO PEDAL !
the less the strain on the cables. Also make sure all consumers are off. Amps can eat power
even with the stereo off. So turn everything off and charge. 5 to 10 minutes seems long but the
start will be much easier and if you have the high idle mod on the running engine use it.
In the way back days I had a guy hit the gas and the back surge blew out all my rear lights.
This was after i has told him to not do what he did. Needless to say I don't do jump starting
much any more. I will call a tow truck and help push. If I know the other driver I will jump
start them.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 4,673
Likes: 532
From: Houston, Texas
BTW, if it turns out to be your starter, this would be a good time to consider upgrading to the high-speed starters that came in the 6.4L (maybe the 6.7L too?). If one of your batteries are bad, consider replacing both, although I know how budgets can be.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 332
Likes: 42
Well turns out both batteries were weak. One had 8 volts and the other 11 under a load. I replaced both and haven't had the issue again. The batteries were almost 4 years old so guess it was about time to replace anyway. The local Ford dealer had a pretty good deal on the batteries, 3 year free replacement for the same batteries at Napa was only 18 month free replacement near identical prices. Parts guy at ford said Ford will change the warranty next month to I think 1 year free replacement.
BPofMD thanks for the jump start suggestions. The truck we used didn't have batteries as large as mine and I never thought about it. With todays electronics I hate to jump start anything.
BPofMD thanks for the jump start suggestions. The truck we used didn't have batteries as large as mine and I never thought about it. With todays electronics I hate to jump start anything.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
6_Myles
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
16
Dec 12, 2018 06:01 PM