Injection pump?
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New User
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So I checked the valve and it isn’t clogged and it appears to be operating correctly, I pushed on it with a pick while blowing through it and it operated as it should. Any other suggestions?
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New User
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Okay, so I’ve now checked the valve yall mentioned. It was operating correctly. I removed the fuel line from my pump to my filter, it’s getting fuel, I removed my line from my filter to my IP, it’s also getting fuel. I’m not sure how much pressure but there’s fuel and a good amount going to my IP. Any other suggestions? I’m at a loss.
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
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so you know all the injectors have good fuel flow ... is smoke rolling out when Cranking ? as it sure should be.
and you know your Glow plugs are working.
and you know you don't have air in fuel issue.
and you know you have good compression....as it starts but will not keep running, but it acts like it is going to WOT
it's sure starting to sound like a Bad IP.
too bad you can't test the Transfer pressure .. you should be getting at least 65 PSI while cranking at 200 RPM
and you know your Glow plugs are working.
and you know you don't have air in fuel issue.
and you know you have good compression....as it starts but will not keep running, but it acts like it is going to WOT
it's sure starting to sound like a Bad IP.
too bad you can't test the Transfer pressure .. you should be getting at least 65 PSI while cranking at 200 RPM
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
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You could eliminate the Fuel system by connecting the IP to a small remote tank...but you shouldn't need to do that IF you know that you have good Fuel supply to the IP.
so I would call that a pointless step...BUT some folks like to do that......Personally I just measure the Fuel pressure at the Schrader valve and test the Transfer Pressure on the IP
IF those are good then I generally say the IP has an internal issue.
so I would call that a pointless step...BUT some folks like to do that......Personally I just measure the Fuel pressure at the Schrader valve and test the Transfer Pressure on the IP
IF those are good then I generally say the IP has an internal issue.
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So I finally got it to run, but it’s sounding like garbage and super choppy. My RPMs drop and pick up, it bounces between 800 and 1000 RPM. It sounds horrible and doesn’t want to stay running. I’m trying to add videos but they won’t attach. I’m pretty sure it’s my IP at this point. Either that or injectors. Or my engine is just finally done for.
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Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 25
thing is to get it up to temp and see if you can run it up to the Governor ....that should burn all the crap out of the cylinders pretty quick
IF you can get it to that point a Qt of ATF in the filter and let her run 30 seconds then let it sit overnight then drive it like you stole it.
IF you can get it to that point a Qt of ATF in the filter and let her run 30 seconds then let it sit overnight then drive it like you stole it.
Trailering
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 20
Likes: 1
From: I can see Canada.
"but it's sounding like garbage and super choppy. My RPMs drop and pick up, it bounces between 800 and 1000 RPM. It sounds horrible and doesn't want to stay running."
THAT sounds like what my truck was running like after I had my heads rebuilt and reinstalled. The truck ran like a cut hog, smoked, and the engine seemed 'boggy' but the tack cycling between ~500 and ~1000 RPMs is what alarmed me.
After that, I had taken the top cover and the fuel screw cover (passenger side, two bolts) off of the IP, let the fuel drain out and poured fresh ATF through it to 'flush' whatever could drain through it.
Reattached side cover, filled IP with fresh ATF, reattached top cover, spun new fuel filter on prefilled with ATF and some Howe's, then let the engine sit overnight and ran it again the next day. It still smoked and ran between ~500 and ~1000 on the tach.
Question: Have you run any alternative fuels? Or do you treat your fuel with any additives? Do you check for water in the filter drain? (I'm OCD and will check each tank)
I read that the metering valve in the IP can stick and cause RPM jump like what you described, and ATF should help soften or break up that 'sticky'. I don't recommend removing the IP top cover as you need to make sure it is reinstalled absolutely correctly or runaway can occur.
THAT sounds like what my truck was running like after I had my heads rebuilt and reinstalled. The truck ran like a cut hog, smoked, and the engine seemed 'boggy' but the tack cycling between ~500 and ~1000 RPMs is what alarmed me.
After that, I had taken the top cover and the fuel screw cover (passenger side, two bolts) off of the IP, let the fuel drain out and poured fresh ATF through it to 'flush' whatever could drain through it.
Reattached side cover, filled IP with fresh ATF, reattached top cover, spun new fuel filter on prefilled with ATF and some Howe's, then let the engine sit overnight and ran it again the next day. It still smoked and ran between ~500 and ~1000 on the tach.
Question: Have you run any alternative fuels? Or do you treat your fuel with any additives? Do you check for water in the filter drain? (I'm OCD and will check each tank)
I read that the metering valve in the IP can stick and cause RPM jump like what you described, and ATF should help soften or break up that 'sticky'. I don't recommend removing the IP top cover as you need to make sure it is reinstalled absolutely correctly or runaway can occur.
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