Fuel pump installed. BIG difference.
Fuel pump installed. BIG difference.
A couple of weeks ago I posted my finding out that I needed a new fuel pump. Boy howdy did I ever need one!!!
I was very apprehensive of using the Ford pump again as I am used to working with Bosch pumps which last for 200,000 miles and up if properly cared for.
So I started looking for a better alternative and found a great one. A fuel pump for a 1983 VW Rabbit. It is designed to operate all day long at 73 psi system pressure: perfect for my trucks 69 psi that I measured at idle. It required that I remove the check valve at the outlet of the pump and install a hydraulic fitting. It is physically larger in diameter than the stock Ford pump.

A comparison picture of the larger VW Rabbit fuel pump. It's ironic that the pump for a VW is larger than the one for a PSD.

I took the Ford pump out and LOL it also is a Bosch unit.
"What gives here", I thought, "these pumps last longer than 67,000 miles."
I discovered that the inlet side of the pump was clogged up with a bunch of rust particles from my fuel tank. Apologies for the poor focus. The brown dots on the picture are the largest pieces in the aprox 1 level teaspoon of grit that I was able to shake out of the fuel pump inlet. I know that there was more still stuck inside the pump.

I recently started using Biodiesel so I am thinking that I am reaping the "benefits" of using Bio-diesel.
Well, two can play that game, I rigged up a pre-filter that I can easily change out.

I had to remove the foam pad on the factory fuel pump mount to get the pump to fit in the mount. With the pad removed the new pump fit perfectly inside the mount. I was even able to use the factory self locking nuts for the power terminals on the pump. The protective boots fit over the terminals on the new pump like it was made for it. They are exactly the same in apperance and dimension.
I did a volume test on the Ford pump before I took it out. I disconnected the line from the fuel pump outlet and put a hose on the end of the pump which dumped into the gallon jug you see here. I turned on the ignition without starting the engine and let the pump run until it shut off I made the bottom mark that says: "Ford Pump".
After the job was completed with the new pump, I repeated the test with the exact same actions, turning on the ignition without starting the motor and wait for the relay to cut the power to the fuel pump. You can see that the new pump is pumping at least 1.5 times the volume of the old pump. YES!!!

Time for a test drive. With fingers trembling with excitement I pull out and go out on the freeway and go to my favorite on ramp that goes uphill for most of the way. I can really put a load on the engine.
WOW!!! The engine pulls HARD all the way to 3000 rpm. It NEVER did that before. None of that "peak and hold" type feeling has remained. It's all just strong pulling.
If you want to see bigger pictures it's in my gallery "Fuel Pump Job".
I was very apprehensive of using the Ford pump again as I am used to working with Bosch pumps which last for 200,000 miles and up if properly cared for.
So I started looking for a better alternative and found a great one. A fuel pump for a 1983 VW Rabbit. It is designed to operate all day long at 73 psi system pressure: perfect for my trucks 69 psi that I measured at idle. It required that I remove the check valve at the outlet of the pump and install a hydraulic fitting. It is physically larger in diameter than the stock Ford pump.
A comparison picture of the larger VW Rabbit fuel pump. It's ironic that the pump for a VW is larger than the one for a PSD.
I took the Ford pump out and LOL it also is a Bosch unit.
"What gives here", I thought, "these pumps last longer than 67,000 miles."
I discovered that the inlet side of the pump was clogged up with a bunch of rust particles from my fuel tank. Apologies for the poor focus. The brown dots on the picture are the largest pieces in the aprox 1 level teaspoon of grit that I was able to shake out of the fuel pump inlet. I know that there was more still stuck inside the pump.
I recently started using Biodiesel so I am thinking that I am reaping the "benefits" of using Bio-diesel.
Well, two can play that game, I rigged up a pre-filter that I can easily change out.
I had to remove the foam pad on the factory fuel pump mount to get the pump to fit in the mount. With the pad removed the new pump fit perfectly inside the mount. I was even able to use the factory self locking nuts for the power terminals on the pump. The protective boots fit over the terminals on the new pump like it was made for it. They are exactly the same in apperance and dimension.
I did a volume test on the Ford pump before I took it out. I disconnected the line from the fuel pump outlet and put a hose on the end of the pump which dumped into the gallon jug you see here. I turned on the ignition without starting the engine and let the pump run until it shut off I made the bottom mark that says: "Ford Pump".
After the job was completed with the new pump, I repeated the test with the exact same actions, turning on the ignition without starting the motor and wait for the relay to cut the power to the fuel pump. You can see that the new pump is pumping at least 1.5 times the volume of the old pump. YES!!!
Time for a test drive. With fingers trembling with excitement I pull out and go out on the freeway and go to my favorite on ramp that goes uphill for most of the way. I can really put a load on the engine.
WOW!!! The engine pulls HARD all the way to 3000 rpm. It NEVER did that before. None of that "peak and hold" type feeling has remained. It's all just strong pulling.
If you want to see bigger pictures it's in my gallery "Fuel Pump Job".
Last edited by Kwikkordead; Dec 16, 2005 at 11:29 PM.
Kwik,
I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say, you have waaaaaaaay too much time on your hands!!! And I can't think of a single person on here that doesn't reap the benifits of that. I don't know where you get your time, or the foresight to think of tests like these. But I for one would like to thank you so much. I learn something new on damn near all your posts. Your a true benifit to all of us here on FTE. Thank you.
RubberDuck
I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say, you have waaaaaaaay too much time on your hands!!! And I can't think of a single person on here that doesn't reap the benifits of that. I don't know where you get your time, or the foresight to think of tests like these. But I for one would like to thank you so much. I learn something new on damn near all your posts. Your a true benifit to all of us here on FTE. Thank you.
RubberDuck
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Kwik - a favor, please. I didn't notice a part number. If you could post it, I'd LOVE to file it away for the time when mine needs a fuel pump. It has 115k on this pump, and seems to be fine, but... well, it could last another couple of years, could die tomorrow.
Since I have a CPS and 10mm socket in my glovebox, I'd like to be prepared for this, too.
Thanks.
Since I have a CPS and 10mm socket in my glovebox, I'd like to be prepared for this, too.
Thanks.
Originally Posted by RubberDuck
Kwik,
I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say, you have waaaaaaaay too much time on your hands!!! And I can't think of a single person on here that doesn't reap the benifits of that. I don't know where you get your time, or the foresight to think of tests like these. But I for one would like to thank you so much. I learn something new on damn near all your posts. Your a true benifit to all of us here on FTE. Thank you.
RubberDuck
I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say, you have waaaaaaaay too much time on your hands!!! And I can't think of a single person on here that doesn't reap the benifits of that. I don't know where you get your time, or the foresight to think of tests like these. But I for one would like to thank you so much. I learn something new on damn near all your posts. Your a true benifit to all of us here on FTE. Thank you.
RubberDuck
great work. i left you some reputation points.
you should make a "kwikkordead regulated return fuel system plus pump" kit, that includes this pump, all tubing necessary, plus all the other things and fittings you used to do your air bleed system, i really want to have mine setup like yours but don't know where to start. i have the cackle and hate it.
i'd buy it.
you should make a "kwikkordead regulated return fuel system plus pump" kit, that includes this pump, all tubing necessary, plus all the other things and fittings you used to do your air bleed system, i really want to have mine setup like yours but don't know where to start. i have the cackle and hate it.
i'd buy it.
Fuel pump part numbers, the numbers are different, but they both catalog as the exact same pump for a 1983 VW gas engine Rabbit.
VW # 171 906 091 A
Bosch # 0 580 254 957
The square fuel filter that I used is for a 1984 VW gas engine Vanagon.
VW part number 133 133 511
Bosch number (unsure on this one, it would be more sure to order by application or VW number.) 07711
The short piece of fuel line is basically 12mm ID.
If you want to go this route, there's a pretty big problem for someone to deal with if you don't have a lot of resources. The outlet of the pump has a completly different fitting than the Ford pump. The check valve on the Rabbit pump is easily removed by unscrewing it from the pump. And the fitting on the Ford pump is the same, simply threaded in. The problem is the threads are different between the two pumps. It would be easily remedied by putting in an adapter fitting and installing the Ford outlet fitting on the Rabbit pump. I didn't have the adapter fitting and put in a hydraulic fitting that came out at a 90 degree angle as shown in the picture that I took. Not the best solution IMO. I'm at home right now, so I'll have to measure the threads when I get back to work on monday and post them. Then you all can go hunt the proper fitting down and have it ready for when the time comes. If you go that route you wont have to adapt the fuel line from the pump to the engine like I did. You'll be able to utilize the outlet fitting from the Ford pump and simply install the VW pump in it's place. My version works just fine, but I have parts laying around the shop that would be very difficult for someone other than me to find easily. I recommend adapting the threads, it would save you a lot of grief.
Another alternative and this uses the Ford pump.
Bosch part number 71056.
Basically it's a fuel filter with 7mm inlet and outlet - the perfect size to splice into the inlet side of the fuel pump. It's about 3 inches in diameter and 6 inches long from tip to tip. There's BARELY enough room for it to fit between the steel fuel line that runs along the frame rail and the inlet side of the fuel pump. You may have to saw part of the steel line off and splice it in with some rubber line to make it fit. Also remember that it will fill up with crud faster than the main filter on the engine and you will have to change it more often. It's a two minute job once you get the routine down.
VW # 171 906 091 A
Bosch # 0 580 254 957
The square fuel filter that I used is for a 1984 VW gas engine Vanagon.
VW part number 133 133 511
Bosch number (unsure on this one, it would be more sure to order by application or VW number.) 07711
The short piece of fuel line is basically 12mm ID.
If you want to go this route, there's a pretty big problem for someone to deal with if you don't have a lot of resources. The outlet of the pump has a completly different fitting than the Ford pump. The check valve on the Rabbit pump is easily removed by unscrewing it from the pump. And the fitting on the Ford pump is the same, simply threaded in. The problem is the threads are different between the two pumps. It would be easily remedied by putting in an adapter fitting and installing the Ford outlet fitting on the Rabbit pump. I didn't have the adapter fitting and put in a hydraulic fitting that came out at a 90 degree angle as shown in the picture that I took. Not the best solution IMO. I'm at home right now, so I'll have to measure the threads when I get back to work on monday and post them. Then you all can go hunt the proper fitting down and have it ready for when the time comes. If you go that route you wont have to adapt the fuel line from the pump to the engine like I did. You'll be able to utilize the outlet fitting from the Ford pump and simply install the VW pump in it's place. My version works just fine, but I have parts laying around the shop that would be very difficult for someone other than me to find easily. I recommend adapting the threads, it would save you a lot of grief.
Another alternative and this uses the Ford pump.
Bosch part number 71056.
Basically it's a fuel filter with 7mm inlet and outlet - the perfect size to splice into the inlet side of the fuel pump. It's about 3 inches in diameter and 6 inches long from tip to tip. There's BARELY enough room for it to fit between the steel fuel line that runs along the frame rail and the inlet side of the fuel pump. You may have to saw part of the steel line off and splice it in with some rubber line to make it fit. Also remember that it will fill up with crud faster than the main filter on the engine and you will have to change it more often. It's a two minute job once you get the routine down.
Originally Posted by WA.Ranger
Awesome Dan, I think I might try to simulate your test results, and see how much fuel mine dumps out. What type of jug was that, and how many inches off the bottom was your first mark?
Originally Posted by strokin_it7.3
great work. i left you some reputation points.
you should make a "kwikkordead regulated return fuel system plus pump" kit, that includes this pump, all tubing necessary, plus all the other things and fittings you used to do your air bleed system, i really want to have mine setup like yours but don't know where to start. i have the cackle and hate it.
i'd buy it.
you should make a "kwikkordead regulated return fuel system plus pump" kit, that includes this pump, all tubing necessary, plus all the other things and fittings you used to do your air bleed system, i really want to have mine setup like yours but don't know where to start. i have the cackle and hate it.
i'd buy it.

But then I couldn't sell it here because of forum rules.
Right now I don't have a good way of making the little oriface fitting that I cobbled together. In my mind it would be manditory to come up with something better before I offered anything for sale.
Any machinists out there that would care to discuss this?









