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I really messed up a stud

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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 04:55 PM
  #1  
Luke Saathoff's Avatar
Luke Saathoff
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I really messed up a stud

Alright so I f’ed up one of my steering arm studs that connects to the Knuckle and I’ve used stud pullers ground a flathead spot into it but it will not budge. How do I even start to get this out?

Thanks,

Luke

pics below



Luke
 
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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 05:11 PM
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If you can get a nut on it, screw the nut on and weld it to the stud. Then use a wrench to get the stud out.

Also, consider using some heat to help you get it out.

My $.02
 
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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 05:14 PM
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I’ve been blow torching that thing till its red, I just want to make sure it’s not going to ruin the Knuckle.?all the threads are stripped aswell and the weld method is how I snapped it in the first place. I’ll keep trying, Thanks
 
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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 05:17 PM
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Only other thing I can think of is to drill it out and chase the threads with a tap.


 
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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 05:27 PM
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That’s a good idea I could drill it out and try not to mess the threads up I will try that now
 
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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Luke Saathoff
That’s a good idea I could drill it out and try not to mess the threads up I will try that now
You are not drill out a hardened broken stud. I have broken several of these over the years. The best way to remove is to slide a grade 5 nut over the stud all the way down, I prefer deep nuts like leaf spring u bolts use. Weld the nut solid, the heat will help break it free, use a impact and work it back and forth. Don't use hand tools, you need short impacts to make it work.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 05:43 PM
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That's your tie-rod end where it goes through the spindle assembly? I'd start with heat, penetrating oil, and a BFH - but it sounds like that's what you've been doing.

Can you cut the top half of the threaded portion off of the ball-stud? If so, it might be worthwhile since the bottom half of the threads doesn't look to boogered up.

You might also try grabbing that stud with a Big F'ing Pipe Wrench, and see if it'll budge. You could even hit the pipe wrench with a hammer...
 
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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 06:11 PM
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I'm thinking I will cut the top and use a stud puller tool if I can and welding as a last resort, only because I don't have any equipment with me.
Ill get more pics too,

Thanks,


Luke
 
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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 07:04 PM
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I'd go with a stud removal tool, similar to this.

Lisle Tools 71200 5/16-24 Broken Stud and Bolt Remover ? USA Auto Tools

Heat the stud and the area around it, repeatedly. Let it cool and reheat. Soak with Kroil. CAUTION: The stud remover can break off the stud. #1 is don't break the stud and make the job 10 times more difficult. Rotate the stud both clockwise and counter clockwise to allow the Kroil to penetrate around the threads.

Drill a small hole into the stud hole from the back side and fill with Kroil.

Hobo
 
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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 09:00 PM
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You need to heat the knuckle not the stud. If you're heating the stud you're working against yourself. Heat the knuckle red get on it with a good pair of vise grips or pipe wrench. That will come out.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2021 | 09:04 PM
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Alright I got them off by heating the knuckle like one guy said and then used a pair of pliers and a load of sea foam deep creep




 
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Old Jan 29, 2021 | 12:06 AM
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Good deal.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2021 | 04:41 AM
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I am sure that you've figured it out as you have gotten the studs out. But for everyone else to know, when you heat metal it will expand and when you cool it, will shrink. With that being said, by heating the actual stud this is causing it to expand within the knuckle. This causes the stud to become tighter in the knuckle. Therefore, by doing what PA74 said (heat the knuckle) it will cause the knuckle to expand which will allow the stud to come loose.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2021 | 10:40 AM
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Glad you got the stud out of the steering knuckle. A method that has worked for me for stuck bolt/ studs is to heat the knuckle and use candle wax as a penetrating oil and let it wick into threads. It looks like you are installing a 4-6 inch lift on a F-250 4x4 with push / pull steering. I assume that the lift kit has you installing a steering block to account for the lift to the truck. Just a FYI regarding steering blocks used to fix turning radius back to normal after a lift kit install. Double check the bolts / studs after you put some miles on the truck . I've seen these long studs shear off at knuckle with large tires and severe 4 wheeling. Some companies supply a raised steering arm instead of a block or a new drag link that's offset for the lift from steering box pitman to steering arm. Glad you got it fixed and enjoying a 4x4 F-250 still on the road.
 
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